Hot Rods 57 FORD Build #2... Glutton for Punishment.

Ahhh makes sense, if you make a retractable roof why not make the hood open a little different to...that might have been the catalyst for that feature...

 

This is where multiple parts come in, like 3 pieces of the same trim section. The bad news is it takes a part off the market that someone else may need. I mark those cardboard tubes as "goes on the car" and the rest I'll eventually sell. Then there is the molding fastener/clip pile...

 

that explains why i was unable to pull the wiper switch out, its a dial that turns, ive never seen anything like this,

 

I've had my Carter pump in my big block 57 for around 9 years now, it's been flawless and the car has also been deep 11's with it with no electric pump. My 1970 Boss Mustang also has the same pump, built for Ford by Carter and I finally rebuilt it a few years back after 50 years of service.

 

283 with two four barrels or fuel injection is what springs to mind, probably a single four-barrel version as well.

 

Maybe not useless trivia: In the Ford Performance catalog form the 60's an upgrade was going from 5/16" to 3/8" on fuel lines. On of my class mates had a 67 fairlane with a 390 2 barrel engine. He swapped to a 4 barrel and went through the Ford steps. I remember him saying the fuel line was worth 500 more rpm. Also, the clutch and brake pads from 57 are the same they used for almost forever. I know that the late 80's f150's use the same pads so if you're going to the parts store for pads, that might help you.

 

staying single reservoir? I read that a 1967 ford truck with manual brakes will work so you can have a dual cylinder and manual brakes.

 

Jeff, how do you plan to deal with the 5/16" line fitting in the Tank?

 

I have a 5/16 line in my car, this is why I run out of power sooner than I'd like. The tank is plumbed for the same, I should have thought about this before I put the tank in.

 

Jeff just found this thread! Watching the progress, looking good!

 

If you haven't put gas in the new tank yet it makes for an easier decision.

 

This 5/16" to 3/8" is something I need to address on my Hardtop as well. I also bought a new tank. I asked before ordering it if 3/8" was an option. It was not. If I remember right the pickup tube is tack welded to the bottom inside the tank. I had planned to cut open the old tank to determine the best way to put in a 3/8" pickup tube. I haven't done much past think about it. I'm leaning towards dropping a new tube strait down in the Tank just in front of the sending unit in the channel for the sending unit wire and going forward and to the Fuel line on the Chassis. My concern is letting it just hang in the tank. With fuel moving front to back with Hitting Gears it might break off at the entrance on top thus leaving us needing a Stretcher to get back home. I don't want to end up there. Who has a better idea? Does it need to be anchored to the bottom of the tank?

 

If it were me I'd cut the fuel line stub off flush. Drill it out, then weld a 3/8 female pipe bung in place. Then you can use inverted flare, AN, barb or whatever else style fuel fitting you decide on. If the tank has fuel in it that may not be worth the bother or put it on the "to do" list.

 

If you're looking at the photo with the Nipple on the side of the tank, that's a 1/4" vent nipple not the fuel line connection. Fuel Line connection is actually an inverted flair seat for a flared line nut to screw into. It's flush into the tank face, nothing protrudes for the chassis line.

 

It's been awhile since I looked at what's back there. My 57 tank now has a sump and two 1/2" female pipe ports. But regardless of what's on there now I would modify the stock fuel outlet for a 3/8" female port. I know about the vent port and the steel line that runs up the quarter panel to the rear of the tail light panel. I'll have a look and see how big a plug I have in the original outlet.

 

I agree with at least a full 3/8" feed out of the tank. Sounds like you did a cut and weld to a stock tank and made a gravity feed to the lines. That's not the direction I want to go if I don't have to. What's your thoughts on a siphon tube free hanging in the tank?

 

Which sway bar are you using? I went with a fat 1.125" on mine.

 

Man is that gonna be sweet. Another thread where my finger would fall off if I hit the "like"buttton all the time!! I LIKE IT !!!

 

at least with these cars you have very few circuits you need to wire, even less now that you've removed the radio and clock!

 

This was my first thought, then I talked myself out of it. Probably overthinking it but then I never do things the easy way. Most likely why my 57 is still in pieces. I think there was a reason on all High Pro factory Ford cars the line is 3/8" all the way from the Wet Spot.

 

Bob........the sway bar you posted pics of is different than the SWTbirds/Concorse sway bars made for the '57's unless they've changed) What brand is yours? maybe that's the difference. The SWT '57 bars are not bent upwards like yours. They are much straighter and the front of it actually goes below the double bracket the core support bolt mounts to. However, with that said, I don't understand how YOUR setup works with the bumper brackets. The way you have it mounted would have moved the brackets outboard by the thickness of the sway bar bracket because you sandwiched that bracket between the frame and bumper brackets. The '57 sway bar mounting brackets are located to the outside of the bumper brackets, so it does not affect the bumper bracket's position in relation to the bumper's holes.