Technical Carb/Trans Linkage Adjustment Needed South Orange co. Calif.

Hello
Looking for a shop that can do a small Carb?Trans Linkage Adjustment
South Orange co. California
I have a 50 Olds still has the 303 with a Vintage Duel Carb set up & Hydro
I had some head work done they did not get linkage adjusted correctly
I do not want to take it back to them
Their basic work on older cars is ok but their attention to detail was not there
I may try to do it myself but I thought I would reach out here too
It should be an easy job for someone with the right experience
The gas pedal hits the floor before I get into the p***ing gear
it seems to be off by about an inch or so
I climb a long steep mile long hill to get home
looking to get it done within the next few weeks
I can drive to you waiting while work gets done
my schedule is flexible
car shows coming up in April
Thanks
Darrell
714.747-7193

 

You should probably own a service manual for the car and see if you could do the adjustment yourself.

 

Thank You I do have a few shop manuals but it is not a stock set up

 

I looked up the adjustment for a 48 Olds and it isn't simple. Too many rods and bell cranks and the manual calls for a special tool. I'd probably try lengthening the rod from the carb a bit at a time and see how it affects upshifts and downshifts.

 

Thanks

 

How far south in Orange County?

 

@Paul can probably help you out with that.

 

I am in Laguna Beach, but I can drive to someone my schedule is flexible just want to find the right person/place

 

ok Thanks

 

Thank You

 

Thanks

 

I don't have the special tools for mine and it is a different linkage setup, but I would work in this order:

1. Lock all bell cranks- there's usually 3 holes in each that line up at the idle position. I use a screwdriver that fits snugly. The lower bell crank will likely have a similar set of holes. You may need to slack the rods off for that to happen.

2. Set the carburetor idle and balance with the upper linkage disconnected. If it idles nicely with the linkage unhooked, ignore this step.

3. Set the carburetor linkage so that it is just on the very verge of slack, making sure the fast idle/choke stops are in their "off/hot" position.

4. Set the bars between the bell cranks- no slack.

5. Set the gearbox linkage to have a fraction of an inch of free play with the lever back toward the rear of the vehicle.

6. Remove bell crank locks, and set throttle pedal height so you have about 1/2" gap under it at full throttle where it hits the stop.

That should get your downshift to about 8/10ths the way down the gas pedal range, which is where it should be, from memory.

Phil

 

Thank You for all of this. I will look it over

 

Looks like you have good advice so far.
I've been playing with the early Olds engines for 40+ years and the only two cars that had automatics came to me with all linkage in place and working until the day I sold them.
All the rest have had standard transmissions.

 

Good reading, not trying to hi jack the thread , but am hoping to learn more about the 2 carburetors
thanks, good luck with the adjustment!!

 

here are some scans from the '50-'51 Shop Manual





"76"-"98" Shift Points



"88" Shift Points

 

Thank You

 

Thanks
I will get some info to you on these soon, I should have something typed up, this is a good excuse to do that. getting ready for a morning cruise spot followed by an Olds Club event tomorrow. the history on these carbs is interesting

 

Lawdy, they went to town with the levers, so my adjustment method is still mostly valid, but you need to make sure that Cross Shaft ***embly "D" is locked with the pin when you adjust up, else you run the risk of it going over-center and causing the throttle to lock shut.

 

Thanks

 

Don't really know anything about this setup, but I'll wade in anyway. I know that on the later model overdrive transmissions, if you don't set the TV cable correctly, you can ruin the trans very quickly. I know this is not the same thing, but I'm wondering IF you might damage your transmission if you do drive it that way? Also, on the later model transmissions, the best way to adjust the TV cable is by putting a pressure guage on the trans and adjusting till a certain pressure is achieved. Would it be possible to do something similar on your trans ? Again I know its not a direct comparison of apples to apples, but since you have a non-standard set-up, maybe it would be doable??????

 

Hydra-Matic works a little differently to later model TH- series transmissions in terms of the kickdown. It's a solid rod linkage with no spring to return it; as with many transmissions the position of the lever changes the internal pressure in the valve body and both delays and makes shifts more positive the harder the pedal is pressed down. The downshift only acts on a valve to knock the gear from 4 to 3 (and then allow upshift at about 65 mph, 3rd gear max speed).

Having the link adjusted too slack means that it will slip the clutches more on a shift than it should, causing greater wear.
Having it adjusted too short means it will change gear too soon with neck-jarring force.

Unfortunately the only hydraulic pressure available externally on the gearbox is behind a plug on the top of the gearbox, which is the main line pressure (which shouldn't change much from 60-65psi in all gears other than R, which is ~120psi on the later cone-clutch reverse models which I thiiiiink this one has, but I could be wrong).
Either way the pressure tells you little other than the overall health of the hydraulics.

Phil

 

Thank you for the information

 

Thanks