Hot Rods 29 RPU- "Street/Strip" B/SR Build - Marty Strode

Nice setup Marty.Reminds me of the guy I had make me wheels the first time. His hub and stub axle was a part of an old 3/4 ton truck floater rear. He had it connected to a motor/gear reducer to have it rotate automatically for cutting and welding. The welds weren't fancy tho. He stick welded everything...

Wheels ran true however, until a little wheel banging had happened. You know just how bent a wheel can be before you repair/replace it when you race on a Red, White, and Blue budget!

 

Dave, I used a front spindle (late model Stock) that Rolla Vollstedt gave me, came in handy. I would like to have it motorized !

 

Marty, I seem to remember you had a spindle adapter for 3/4 ton hubs on a workbench in one of the pictures somewhere in one of your threads. That and one of the old style axles where the flange is forged onto the axle, a support bearing on the inner end, and a motor/gear reducer, and you've got it.

Just a thought, and another project to take up some free time...

 

Dave, If I had very many to do, I would probably make a setup like that. I would have replied earlier, but my internet went down, around Monday. I did however, get a another pair of Slicks to use for setup. After seeing them mounted up and on the truck, it looks like I can shorten the front side an inch or so, and have less tire sticking out.

 

This is good to know. These look beefier than the W5 centers I have for my salt wheels. I may have to order a pair. Thanks

 

Trent, here is the link. BTW I missed on an initial.

See outside



J T Presley Corporation
Directions
Address: 37026 AL-79, Cleveland, AL 35049




Phone: (205) 274-7991

 

I got the spindle mounts a couple days ago, one was quite corroded. I knew these two weren't candidates for the vapor blast process, so I had a friend gl*** bead them. As I am plumbing the air my entire shop, and my unit isn't working right now. The frothy one is quite pitted, so I may have them painted a satin gold, similar to the original finish that was offered at the time. I have a little time, as the front tires I need, M&H 15 X 26, 4.5" wide, won't be available until late next month.

 

Lots to love in this one.

 

These were painted, pretty close to the color I would want.

 

I remember many many years ago seeing a fancy T in the ba*****t of Dan Hay's house in Des Moines. His dad had Halibrands with their original Dow 7 coating on them, and they still looked new. It was definitely not a solid color like those painted gold wheels. It was iridescent, hazey, and sparkly all at the same time. There was no evenness to it at all. I personally think painted wheels look like imitations.

Two summers ago my brother wanted to clean up some magnesium Americans. Some had paint on the spokes that didn't match, as well as varied corrosion in spots. We sandblasted them in my cabinet, then sprayed them with Gibbs. I just saw them again today and they have a nice even medium/dark gray color, and no new corrosion at all. Unless you are going to polish your magnesium wheels, I'd recommend the Gibbs.

 

Jeff, I definitely don't want the bling, so I will go with the Gibbs. Now, to find race front tires to buy. I don't plan on making it street legal this year. This will be the event I am most interested in making.

 

I have decided to change the front engine mounts, as the current ones, interfere with placement of the steering box. My first plan was to install a Hurst style, straddle mount, and remove the existing ones. But I see a possible conflict with the steering linkage, when the front end comes down, after a wheel stand. I was going to build short, individual mounts that bolt to the 55-57 mount holes in the front of the block. After a conversation with a buddy, he said "I have a set of those, that have been hanging on my wall for 30 years" ! I promptly went over and picked them up, and he had an add out of a Northwest Rods Magazine from 1958. They are flame cut, and stick welded, and perfect for the project. Since I am moving the mounts to the front, I also picked up a pair of tri-5 mid mounts, from him as well, and plan on building a bolt in center crossmember to complete the package.

 

Just another option for you, these are the front mounts I prefer. From a 1967 Hot Rod Mag series on building a T-bucket.

 

That's a good looking mount, do you have them made ? I suppose a Cad drawing could be made of of that.

 

I did get one of the rear wheels welded up. On the second one, I bolted on my **** Spadero wheel plate, and grabbed it in the middle. The runout was only around .020, quite good for a stamped part. Needed to remove about a 1/16th off the OD.

 

Hi Marty:
The one I made was old-school hacksaw /grind / weld. For a CADD guy it would be an easy drawing, and then it could be water-jetted etc

 

Good stuff

 

The caps on your hubs say C4 Racing Equipment. Is this the same company that made backing plates that looked like '41 Lincolns?

 

Hello Marty, hope you don't mind me bending your ear again, we conversed regarding my wide five hubs a while back & followed your lead of which I'm most thankful. Now have my avatar on (4) wheels with drive train in tack, save for a radiator guard hood & misc. sheet metal. I was curious to know what shocks you tend to favor. A bit early perhaps but primarily concerned with the front to search things out, looks as if my free-standing distance is just short of 12" & have a single old, shrouded shock just for trial that measures 9.50" compressed & 11.50 fully extended seems to size out ok. I do realize I'll need to read up on one of the supply or web sites on the proper sizing & measuring & let things settle in. Hoping to use a shrouded tube double eye old school like the Gabriel etc. Not sure what might be out there current, or old stock sort of thing, just want to keep watch with the swap season gearing up. Using a spring-over 37-tube axle/wishbone combo & may or may not change out for 32 original/ dropped or otherwise depending on the overall ride height. This I know leaves some open-ended questions & readjusting accordingly. value your build experience & as always, opinions. Thanks, Ron

 

Jeff, 4 C Racing was in San Jose, built wide 5 Hubs and brakes. The local oval track was known for the Supermodifieds that raced there, some of the biggest names in the west. Marshal Sargent was certainly one of the hot dogs, and was sponsored by them. I am running those hubs on the rear, the backing plates have a stamp on them. I thought they were similar to the 3/4 ton Ford stuff, not sure about the Lincoln. I will post pics of the backing plates.

 

Ron, 2" doesn't sound like much travel, I would look for shocks with 4" if you can find them. I wouldn't complete the shock mounts, until you have most of the weight on the car. Good to see you are progressing !

 

Now that is how a Supermodified should look. None of these bland, square things they run these days.

 

Thanks Marty, the lower front shock mounts are actually the vacated 37 wishbone spring eye bosses left intact reamed out & cleaned up, thought it a shame to lop off a factory forged Ford appendage when it very closely duplicates the at***ude of the aftermarket lower spring perch shock mounts so commonly used. Haven't trimmed or cut them at this point but may need to do so, or even heat & reposition if need be. The top mounts were already welded to the horns & will use if proper for the chosen shocks.

 

I got this in an auction lot, a magnesium motor plate, not sure about the who,what,when,where of it but maybe you could find one and trim it down to your liking. I know Speedway sells one in there roundy round car section that's shaped a little different, but still magnesium.



Edit : here's the Speedway magnesium

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Magn...SiMjyr7ijo76i_ehD9LS67lUrOZda-nhoChS0QAvD_BwE

.

 

I think I am going to bandsaw one out of 1/4" steel, similar to the one Guy posted above. If the middle section conflicts with the steering, I will remove that portion.

 

Marty I really enjoy all of you build posts and awesome talent. I like the design of the engine mount plate GuyW put up. Certainly envious of the guys with CAD driven water jets. But like you indicated, I went to the bandsaw for the last plate that I made. It's 3/8" plate which is overkill but I had a bunch laying around.

 

^^^Nice^^

 

Beautiful work Jim ! Sometimes I try to take some shortcuts ie, laser or water jet cutting, as I have several projects of my own to finish. But in reality, I could probably drill, saw and weld one together, in the time it takes to go back an forth 2 times, to have the part cutout. Thanks to Guy and you for getting me back on track. It looks like you have a serious project, by the front cover and pump, along with a torque rod on the driver side.

 

While pondering what to do on this project, I jumped back on the ***embly of my '40 PU ch***is. When I setup the rear suspension, I chose a 42-48 Ford/Merc rear spring, because it is 1.5" shorter than a 37-40. The spring I have saved for the project came out of a friend's 46 Merc "Stunt Car". Instead of 48" perch eye centers like a '40, I set it up at 46.5". The spring is in beautiful condition, fully greased, just like 1957 when it was parked. The first order was to push out the old bushings, and machine sleeves to fit 3/4" shackles. After getting it installed, my fear is the spring is too long, and won't have the proper shackle angle. So, it will work for now to get the truck fully ***embled with all the weight, and see where it stands, for height and shackle angle. At that time, I can have the ends re-rolled, and alter the arch if needed.

 

I painted these 5 spokes (mag fronts, aluminum rears) with a custom mixed metallic grey/green/gold lacquer and added flattening clear to protect and make them look a bit like DOW 7. Not quite right (and way too even) but I like the look.