Technical 53 DODGE FRONT SUSPENSION

I bought a 53 Dodge Wagon, and was wondering if anyone has put any kind of different suspension on one? Any information, pictures or do's and don'ts would be appreciated.

 

I do not at this time, I will get some once I can get some good ones, can not get a good shot with a camera yet.

 

Have drive mine for 35 years now with the stock suspension.
Works great and i dont see any reason to change it.

 

I was going to say there is no big reason for the change also. Chrysler Corp were really good driving machines, far ahead of the competition back then. Good shocks and tires, and possibly a disk upgrade, are all that's really needed. Well along with making sure wear points are OK.

 

Just remount the shocks and you will be all set. Watch out for the double wheel cylinders per wheel and that the lug nuts/bolts go CW/CCW depending on what side of the vehicle you are at.

 

Change for the sake of Change is a for sure way to spend a lot of $$$$ for no good reason. Have you actually driven it yet? If so, what don't you like about it? You do know no matter what it isn't going to drive like your Honda car, right?

 

Never owned a Honda could not tell you how they drive.

 

Really no need to go through the trouble of changing the front suspension since the car already has a modern suspension, Kanter makes a rebuild kit to make the car handle like new.

1953 Dodge

I used their rebuild kit under our 1954 Ford Ranch Wagon and the car drives like a new one.

The car now has a 302 & a 5 speed transmission. HRP

 

Stock 241 with 3 spd man, 6V and around 4,10-1 in the rearaxle.
A bit buzzy over 55 mph.
It have been so dependible that it is the car i compare all others against.
The brakes is a bit tricky to get right but they work great.

 

Rather than a front end swap updating the front end works very well. Relocated front shocks - mounting the upper to the frame instead of the stock setup between the upper and lower control arms. Larger sway bar. Disc brakes are an improvement over the dual wheel cylinder original.

 

I'm with the others. those cars actually drove/drive pretty good compared to a lot of rigs from that time frame. I can't see swapping the whole front suspension meaning that you have to cut the frame in two and install a subframe and all the fitting and fussing that goes with it for minimum gain if any actual gain.
I've done two subframe swaps and both were a pain in the**** when it came to getting front end sheet metal to fit. True both drove great when done but that is obsolete tech now and there are better ways.

Upgrade of shocks and a disk brake kit swap would go a long ways. Scarebird says theirs will work with the stock wheels if you so desire. 1946-54 Plymouth Deluxe, Special, P15, Dodge w/10" drum front disc (scarebird.com)

My stepfather (#2) had a 53/54 Dodge more door when he married my mom in 1966 and what few times I drove it, it drove great. Petty decent ride too.

 

I agree with the consensus--if they are aligned correctly, no worn out parts, and good tires, the old Mopars handle as well as any '50s car and better than most. Upgrade the brakes, make the change on the shock mounts, and add a stiffer sway bar, but don't replace a good front suspension with something that's really not any better.

 

Having driven both an original suspension 48 Plymouth (same suspension as your 53 Dodge) with a disc brake conversion and the shock relocation, and my current 48 Plymouth with a modern frame/suspension (the original frame was rusted through bad), there was very little difference between the two, unless you intend to do high speed cornering. Your original suspension with a few simple upgrades will be a great driver. Gene

 

Are you noticing a theme with shock relocation?

Do that. Brakes are good, too.

Adapt a 1" anti-sway bar from a modern vehicle, in place of the original.

I last used a 1984-2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ on a 1948. It might fit that, too. I installed it upside-down.

 

Here is the anti-sway bar:

 

I saw one local that was fitted with a Cordoba snout and a 360, looked quite sanitary and I understand a popular swap. So are Volare clips. me being a cheap******** would tend to go with a good stock rebuild.

 

Dont put that Mustang***** in there man... No reason to, just keep your stuff, rebuild and ride. I have had alot of cars, early IFS cars with some rebuilt parts, they ride and drive so dang good. The M2 junk is not designed or meant for these cars, your pushing it on a truck even. But even my drop axle 56 rides better than my buddies M2 and they always comment on it when riding with me.
Spruce the girl up with some new parts and enjoy her.

 

Well, I'll be the contrarian and point out that those early '50s upright/kingpin style front suspensions were the last gasp of '30s-era design and were replaced by more modern ball-joint type suspensions by almost everyone by '57, certainly by the big three. With that said, cutting the front of the frame off for a clip is a big deal and the typical M2 swap isn't the best solution by a long ways and definitely not the cheapest. The above mods will get all that suspension is capable of delivering, particularly the sway bar as in my experience those early mopars would 'wallow' quite a bit when stock. And keep in mind the Kantner kits don't address the inner tie rods, idler arm, center link, or steering box. Total costs can be quite a bit higher if those need repair/replacing. If you want disc brakes, another expense.

@36panelman , sending you a PM....

 

Aren't we supposed to turn all Dodges into straight-axle gassers?

 

I've built several of this era Mopar cars & trucks using several forms of front suspension.
The Cordoba and the Volare, and the 81-88 5th Ave/Diplomat all are the same crossmember, the Volare was the 1st to use it, the 5th Ave was the last to use it. An 88-90 (or 91-96 with the rotor change, 97 & newer will be 6 bolt wheels) Dakota front clip (if you can find a frame not rotted out) fits better and has the same wheel bolt pattern.

Any clip means you have to redesign the radiator support because the front sheet metal hangs off the radiator support.
If the car needs the brakes redone, a disc brake conversion is probably cheaper then replacing the drum and the parts inside of the drum.
The upper shock mount movement from the upper control arm to the frame eliminates the original car "wallow". The larger diameter anti-sway bar improves the over all handling. Otherwise, when has rebuilding front suspension ever been cheap? Once made functional, a grease job to the fittings annually, or about every 5,000-6,000 miles goes a long way towards reliable road service.
If you have never experienced driving this era Mopar with the stock original suspension, an upgraded stock suspension, or vehicles having had different clips installed, you are just speculating. Gene

 

I have had to repair many butchered frames from Volare clips.

Not one single one of them had an acceptable ride. I used to drive a Volare. It did not even have an acceptable ride.

The 1949 Plymouth that I did up for a client is a daily-driver, and the customer is very happy with it. I drove it for a week before giving it back. It handled well, stopped great, and was a joy to drive.

One helpful addition that I did to it was a tweak to the rear brakes. I removed the rivets and replaced 4-of-5 of them with*****on head allen screws in tapped holes. The fifth one I put in a cut off bolt, to mimic the wheel locating pin. This allows for the rear brakes to be serviced without pulling the rear hubs.

 

I have done a couple of Plymouths with the suggested shock/sway bar changes and found them to work quite well and really can’t imagine what a clipped front end would do better, as my ‘51 is very nice to drive. Rebuilding a 40 year old Cordoba or Volare front end couldn’t be much cheaper than the original. Not to mention the sheet metal fitment, track width, steering column, etc., problems. The suggestions of later suspension swaps really aren’t in keeping with this site.

 

Having done it, my advice is to never even consider installing the Volari based front suspension under some poor unsuspecting car. Mounting the torsion bars at the front of the suspension cradle means they take up the space normally used by unnecessary stuff like radiators, front bumpers and front sheet-metal. What's worse is with torsion bars there is no way to "tune" the front suspension like you can by swapping out coil springs.

 

I had a 53 Chrysler .

I put good tires on it and made sure the suspension and brakes where in hood shape.

that thing drove fantastic . I would compare the drive to a 70’s or 80s sedan.

the brakes worked fine as well .

most times a frame swap or clip does not bring out the benefits anticipated

 

Drove a 50 Chrysler for over 20 years and all I did was kept it greased.

 

I am dealing with my 53 Windsor wagon and dealing with rusted front frame stub. I have a concern with a 4,000 LB car on a M2 stub as well. Great information in the input. I too would like to stick with the stock suspension, but, would like to lower it a bit. Anyway, looking forward to further updates.

 

I am working on a 54 Windsor wagon. Can't imagine a M2 suspension will work on my almost 4,000 car. Thank you for the help and advice.

 

I used "aerostar" springs, made by " Precision Springs", made in USA # SP08160
I cut 1 coil for my Plymouth, for about a 2" drop, I wouldn't cut that much for your heavier wagon. Maybe try them stock, then cut 1/4 coil at a time

Eaton also makes springs, stock and lower, for these cars