Technical Speaking of paint -

I'm just thinking out loud, I have owned my old beater since for 34 years now and have always said I would never paint it, so with that thought in mind I went ahead and installed a complete inter in the old sedan a few years ago.

The car was painted black in 1963 by the original owners son and in recent years the original fenders have had some hammer & dolly work to get them straight, then a coat of rattle can flat black was applied to the fenders and a few spot's on the body.

In the past few weeks I have been thinking about shooting the sedan with the Kirker semi-gloss black paint I had on my 32 pickup, I'm not thinking about door jams and such, just make the old gal one solid color.

BTW, I'm sure old 3 Window Larry wouldn't approve. HRP



Have you ever painted a hamb era car that already has the glass and interior installed? HRP

 

Hamb era, as in 50s yes, earlier, no. It can be done, just takes a lot of time to mask and back tape stuff to make it look good with the doors open, and keep the rubber/glass neat looking.

 

Don't touch it. Lots of guys struggle to make their cars and trucks look like yours.

 

That’s the way Hamb era cars were painted in the 60 s and 70 s ,it’ll look hamb correct !!!

 

Be easier to shoot the fenders gloss black.

That's a Chevy engine isn't it? What are those black dots on the valve covers?

 

Unless the area that was rattle can painted is failing bad, I wouldn't mess with it at all.
If the area that was rattle can painted is failing bad, I might give consideration to repainting those areas with rattle can paint again, but be aware, the rattle can stuff they call "paint" these days is no where near as good as it was 2-3 years ago.
If the previous work was only done on the fenders, and they look really bad, maybe just cover everything else up and just repaint the fenders with the kicker paint and call it good.

Taping everything off you don't want painted is a pain in the butt. It would have to look pretty bad before I would mess with it.

 

I'd have to say that few guys took a car all apart to paint it even when doing the jambs before maybe the 1990's Lots of masking tape and paper and shoot the Jambs and what not and then close the doors and shoot the car.
Why the hell worry about what others think unless you are looking for trophies or planning on selling it right away? If you are tired of the dead worn out paint look you are tired of the dead worn out paint look and that satin black will look tired and worn out soon enough. Those who actually love the car will love it just as much with fresh makeup on as we did before and maybe more and the haters don't count.

 

My thoughts as well, Mr48! Cars are painted every day with masking paper, tape, etc,.

Ben

 

• I've been locked in to what Dad told me as a kid,;
• "If your not going to do it right,don't!"=Any other way,makes you have to do it again anyway.
• My 3 scents, if your thinking you'd like to have a car look more cared fore.? vs, be just hap hazred splotches of primer an gone bad old paint. Do the sanding an perp. <that I still think takes more work,then doing the spray part of the job.
• "Semi-gloss" = The look of a failed gloss paint job,and that also = much harder to keep clean looking. Primer an semi is hard to clean*, an almost always shows a ugly spot were it's been cleaned.

High Gloss,Beside just looking good an showing off the cool lines of a car;
High Gloss,is an has been more water proof >So less rust/ it is gloss because the surface has less an smaller porosity>so water dose not get in.
In the end,only you know what out come ,will make you happy later< So do that,what ever it is.

 

Only you have eyes on the bodywork that will let you know if sanding and spraying glossy will look ok, or a bunch of wrinkles/dips, etc.

For what’s it’s worth (gotta penny) if there’s no rust bleeds, I’d just keep enjoying it.

 

If you're gonna go to all the trouble to paint it, then paint it shiny red. Or at least paint it blue.

 

Easy enough for an experienced taper. There are quite a few tricks and tips good tapers use. The standard test most new guys had to pass was the successful taping of a keyhole with a single correct length of tape without covering any of the painted surface and not leaving any of the keyhole exposed. Having finger nails long enough and intact helps to stick the tape where you want it in tight spots. Buy a good roll of paper and learn how to stretch out the length of paper, tack one end with the roll of tape and run the tape along the edge length in a single motion before using it on the car. Most will say "don't cheap out on the tape" but I have been using the cheap stuff we get from Princess Auto lately without issue. When taping I always try to go in one direction which makes tape and paper removal so much easier. One section will lift the next off if it is underneath.
You can get excellent results if you take the time to tape it correctly. The instant satisfaction gained from not having any reassembly work afterwards helps to justify this method. I've done it many times, haven't had anyone complain or even notice how it was done. I never allow any lubricants or solvents near a ready to paint vehicle but after painting and removal of the tape and paper if any paint or overspray is found anywhere that it shouldn't be, WD40 can be used in conjunction with a small putty knife, a clean paper towel or any other implement to remove it. Just spray the paper towel lightly and don't allow the towel or WD40 to touch any newly painted surface. The sooner after painting when dry too the touch, the easier it is to remove.
What you want to do can be done in sections at a time too. It will all match in the end.

 

Danny
Gary put it pretty succinctly, my opinion also.

 

WHAT ??? no epoxy

 

What ever color you paint it, paint it with shiny paint. Flat paint back in the day was primer. Most people had the intention of painting their car when they had it finished and had enough money to pay for the paint job. This flat black paint now a days just makes the car look unfinished, or the owner too cheap to do it right.

 

Ever since I was a kid I have been drawn to primer cars, to me they look great when the primer is fresh, but the draw back is it stains and starts to look like crap in a short period of time, granted I realize primer is not a finish and was never meant to be.

Due to the fact, I have owned a lot of cars with primer in the past, I kept experimenting with finishes to achieve the look, some worked better than others, epoxy primer worked better than regular lacquer primer & lasted longer but was only available in black, then I ran across the Kirker Semi-Gloss black paint.

I used it on my Deuce pickup and owned the truck for several years, it never faded or streaked and looked as good the day I sold it as the day we painted it.

This is the Kirker Semi- Gloss Black


A few years ago I traded my Street Rod deuce sedan with Ron for his Hi-boy deuce 4 door, I questioned him about the color and finish, He told me he painted it with Rustoleum red primer but mixed a quart of Rustoleum brown enamel and the entire time I owned the car it never faded or stained, that surprised me because it look like primer but looked good when I sold the car.




Again, I am well aware primer is not a finish, the Kirker IS a acrylic urethane paint. HRP

 

Yup, it's all in the masking. It is how we painted cars before everyone started blowing them completely apart

 

I like the John Deere Blitz Black, it’s been on the 39 for 15 years, cost me less than 50 bucks to paint it back then.

 

Here is what you do. Maybe Dana has the energy, so take Mrs HRP for a little vacation to Miami. Throw some cash and a couple of cases of Dana’s favorite beverage his way and you and the wife are happy .

 

Unless it's a color change, I never take one apart.

 

I’m not a fan of semi or flat paint. Primer is different. At least you think you might paint it one day if it’s primed.
You asked, so leave it or do it right. Gloss black! JMO

 

I would totally dive into that with some Tamco Black Single stage. WAYY better than Kirker

 

One of the baddestist duece sedans of all time wasn't shiny.
Just sayin'......

 

It is fine just the way it is.

I've had more than one person tell me the 35year old crappy paint on my 38 Chevy should be redone. I am closer to 80 than 75, the next owner can paint it.

 

We have resprayed my '34 a couple of times without taking it apart other than the door handles and tail lights.

 

I like satin paint. Was told by guys that had hot rods in the 50's they used color toners in primer.

 

I have painted one with the JD Blitz Black. It has been 12 years now and it looks just as it did the day it was painted. Very easy to touch up scrapes, scratches or dings. It is offered in an aerosol that blends in unbelievably well if or when you need one of these touch ups.

 

Be careful. I mean you're getting on a slippery slope here. Next thing you know, you'll be wanting to repaint it every 34 years whether it needs it or not.

 

Why bother...it looks great as is!

 

Clean, sand, clean, tape, clean, spray.
Done. it’s semi gloss, so whatever ya end up with when ya clean the gun is what ya get.