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Hot Rods 57 FORD Build #2... Glutton for Punishment.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jeff Norwell, Oct 20, 2021.

  1. Nope, not headed down this year. :( Honestly, it’s been a long time since I have been to the roundup as well. Silas wants to go, but we just have too much going right now... Maybe we can get his truck done and take it next year. He wants to debut it at the Gathering at the Roc, but if it was done by LSRU, I am sure he would want it there first. And, if we could get stuff ironed out on his Edsel, we might have time to work on the truck. :D
     
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  2. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,785

    Squablow
    Member

    The key to building a car on a budget is to buy it 15 years ago.

    There also seems to be an extra sense of pride or accomplishment to use up something you've had laying around for a long time. For me it's great but also kinda dangerous because I'm encouraging myself to hold onto lots of random junk "just in case", hoping to hit that high again of having what I need. At the current prices, every bolt out of the hardware cabinet, scrap of sheetmetal made into a patch panel or pint of old paint used up feels pretty great.
     
    Just Gary, brEad, RMR&C and 8 others like this.
  3. I've learned that the hard way, I kinda wish I lived back in the 80s or 90s and even 00s so I couldn't have to invest so much money into only a couple parts, and there were still a few ford junkyards near me back then too, all gone and turned into houses now...
     
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  4. Fitnessguy
    Joined: Sep 28, 2015
    Posts: 2,020

    Fitnessguy
    Member

    The hobby isn't cheap for sure. If there's one thing I have learned from my Mom passing young and then losing Dad last year, who wouldn't spend a dime in his later years, is that life is short and you can't take it with you so as long as the bills are paid, spend the rest on what brings you joy. Build both them Fords the way you want and don't hold back. Then when my 56 is done we can arrange that factory wars grudge race somewhere in our great nation! :D
     
  5. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,785

    Squablow
    Member

    I do feel bad for you young guys just getting started now. Wisconsin still has some junkyards with old cars in them and some real good swap meets, but there were 5x that number of junkyards 10-20 years ago and what we have left is drying up quickly. And the quality of stuff that shows up to swap meets seems to get weaker and weaker as the prices go up.

    It's good you've got a starting point now and you're in it early. I've got a feeling 15 years from now, this will feel like the good ol' days.
     
    enloe, Fabulous50's, Algoma56 and 5 others like this.
  6. It can still be done, you just have to want it bad enough.
     
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  7. Yep, part of it is making connections with old guys like us that know where parts still are...
     
    59'er F100, Landmule, enloe and 6 others like this.
  8. Joe Travers
    Joined: Mar 21, 2021
    Posts: 709

    Joe Travers
    Member
    from Louisiana

    I quit jacking w/ old stuff in the '90s when everything dried up here. Sometimes I wonder if I'm crazy to get back into it this stage of the game but there is one good thing around now we didn't have then, internet search. All I had when I quit was Hemmings phone book and a 3 month wait. Keep plowing.

    Back to the Jeff show.......

    Joe
     
  9. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member



    Thats why I like you guys!
    hahahaha
     
  10. ...........OUCH!:D;)
     
  11. You have to be willing to DIG for parts. Find out who has parts and or parts cars. I know a local guy who buys out old dealers and parts houses. A decent guy to deal with and he almost always has what I'm looking for. He's also plugged into services for having things made like front brake cable assemblies or getting things rebuilt.

    I try not to hoard up things that others could use on their projects, like trim. I have had 3 sets of some things, I cherry pick the best and sell the rest.
     
    hrm2k, 57 Fargo, enloe and 4 others like this.
  12. Hey...you may actually be older than I am...lol :D:rolleyes:
     
    Thor1, Deuces, enloe and 1 other person like this.
  13. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member



    Truth is stranger than fiction!
     
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  14. ...Never let the truth get in the way of a good story.:D;)
     
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  15. I've been playing with the car hobby since the mid 70's...I don't recall a time where people were saying, "boy, things are sure cheap this year".
     
  16. say, did the car have a windshield when you got it? or did you remove it when doing the floors?
     
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  17. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member


    Yes.... all glass is safely stored away and ready to install with proper rubber when that time arises.
     
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  18. In the future my car might need new seals, do you advise letting a shop do it or removing the glass with some help, replacing the seal, then reinstalling?
     
    Jeff Norwell likes this.
  19. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Are the rubber seals in good shape on your car? windshield?, rear window?
    If the rubber is good and still pliable.... keep them and get a friend to help you... taking great car in removing the stainless around.
    if you need to replace the rubber(old and cracked) just carefully use a knife to cut it away,... and carefully remove the front and rear glass.
    when installing,. find a friend and use the rope trick... or see what the cost is to shop to do it.I have found its a 2 man job installing the front and rear glass.
    Be so careful on your glass,. a front windshield is around $300-$500 or maybe more... the rear glass for your car is around $300... check with auto city glass(search).. the new rubber seals can be had at Carpenters.(again.. not really cheap)
    You have a Fairlane..... different than a custom or custom 300....
    And.... when doing the front and rear glass.... you need to install the headliner first.... if you need one.
     
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  20. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,785

    Squablow
    Member

    This is the most accurate thing I've read all day!
     
    Spooky, Baumi, Deuces and 4 others like this.
  21. My headliner is very shot, only the back window leaks under heavy winds and rain, the front window is rotten but does not leak, i need new dew wipes, windlace, vent window seals, only good seals on the car that wont need replaced or refreshed are the rear doors rear windows.(the cowl vents do get my feet wet when it rains, so that explains the rear floor rot).
     
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  22. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Another small update.. but trudging forward.
    On the cowl of these 57's was a cage nut to secure on the left and right... the purpose was a point to attach your fender and used for fender adjustment.
    very poor design, 80% of the time when you would go to remove the fenders..... (and we are speaking an old crusty car here) The cage nut would simply twist away from the body and snap off.
    It was designed in such away you cannot weld another cage nut from the inside of the cowl....(it's sealed.)
    Mine are both missing.. left and right.At first I thought is was so important to have a moveable cage nut to adjust the front fenders ... not so.... the fender tab is very large and adjustment comes from there.



    So had some small chunks of metal made threaded fine and will spot weld them into place and hit a dab of paint over top.

    ***Note***---- There is zero Horsepower gain from this post.


    hahahah

    158.jpg 159.jpg 160.jpg 160A.jpg
     
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  23. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Oh yea... made up the carb linkage ..... With parts from Terry!
    hahah

    Yes. there is a HP gain on this post..... when you Jam your foot to the firewall... magic will happen.


    161.jpg 162.jpg
     
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  24. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    So... I am moving on to install the G-Pedal..I covered it before with explanation on my other 57 thread..... so, Just gonna cut n paste it here as well...


    So.. motoring away on my build and crossing things off my list, I came to the point where I was now assembling the Gas Pedal.
    Wanting a stock pedal, in stock portion.. it seemed like a simple install.
    Not really.


    After examine an old rotted pedal with linkage... the Repro's are nothing like OG's.... I remember my friend Gunther(From Austria) at some point speaking to this issue.
    I looked at the old assembly and the new repro unit..... completely different.I assume many of you know all this.. but I had no idea.


    copy 01.jpeg copy 02.jpeg
     
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  25. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    So I crafted a quick email to Gunther and he provided a email within an hour with his solution...... simple and straight forward.....And with pics!


    copy 03.png copy04.jpeg copy 05.jpeg copy 06.jpeg copy 07.jpeg
     
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  26. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    After a few minutes.I gathered up stuff in the shop to do this..... I made a rolled pin to size but then looked at the old 60's, 70's unit that was in the car.... I saw a rolled Knurled pin that fit the 3/8's tube I was using perfectly.I like this knurled pin, due to the fact there was less chance of it backing out over time.But i tend to over think things.....


    copy 08.jpeg copy 09.jpeg copy 010.jpeg
     
  27. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,054

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    It all worked out very well, and you need to take a rat tail file to the linkage area that the tube passes through so there is no bind or catching......
    The whole deal took an hour to do but it really to the guess work out of what should be a simple install.There may be other solutions out there but I really want to thank Gunther for taking the time to lend a international hand..... instead of myself destroying a Reproduction gas pedal..... I think that what really bugs me is there are no instructions or solutions when this part is bought.Nor is it anywhere close to an original design.
    Anyhow.. some may have done this a different way or simpler.... but Gunther came to my rescue and the issue is solved.

    Hopefully it may help someone else in the future...
     
  28. Old glass is brittle, it breaks easily. My windshield was broken and the gasket was a fossil, all that went into the trash. I had a mobile glass guy I know install the new one, ran me $125 in 2015 and the guy earned every cent.

    I have yet to see anyone who makes the rear glass for a '59 Custom 300, so I'm careful with it. I can get a gasket no sweat, but taking the old one out will be a white-knuckle experience. I've installed plenty of curved glass in the past, definitely a 2 or 3 man job.

    On my car, the lower windshield trim goes into the gasket first, so does the rear window.

    With these old Fords, leaky windshields on a car that has sat outside for years, often the firewalls are rotten. I had my interior completely out including the dash, no rust damage thankfully.
     
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  29. my car was built in august of 57, that first pedal looks like mine, and its original.
     
    Thor1 likes this.
  30. no firewall rot for me, only the foot pedal fell off, and the rear floors arent very good.
     

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