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Technical Head Studs Too Long

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by Chop50, Apr 22, 2022.

  1. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 227

    Chop50
    Member

    Hi All,
    I am building a 1950 Merc. motor for a gentleman. I am installing a set of Offenhauser 8BA heads using the Speedway Part # 91015310-49 1949-1953 Flathead Cylinder Head Stud/Nut Kit, Ford/Mercury V8 stud kit. I sorted the bolts which seem to be in 2 different lengths installing the shorter bolts along the bottom row as the Offenhauser heads seem thinner along that bottom row. I am finding the studs along that bottom row to be too long with the stud protruding quite a bit above the nut.
    It looks from pictures I have seen of Eddelbrock heads it looks as though those head are thicker along the bottom row....
    Any thoughts?
    Thanks, Steve
     
  2. kadillackid
    Joined: Nov 11, 2006
    Posts: 638

    kadillackid
    Member

    This may be required...o_O
    Capturerr.jpg
     
  3. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,765

    alchemy
    Member

    Years ago Speedway used to sell a couple different kits with different lengths in each. I bought one for a stock pair of heads and didn't like a few that were too long. Chucked them up in my buddy's lathe and we cut them off.
     
    dana barlow likes this.
  4. Bandit Billy
    Joined: Sep 16, 2014
    Posts: 16,113

    Bandit Billy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I bought an ARP stud kit for my 8BA. I did question whether or not the acorn nuts were bottoming out while tightening/torqueing so I used a thick SS washer under the acorns but no t******* of the studs were necessary.
     
  5. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 227

    Chop50
    Member

    Speedway first listed that they could be used on aluminum heads but details and alternative kit was not listed until you dig deep into the directions. Ended up cutting some of the studs and worked out ok.
     
  6. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,765

    alchemy
    Member

    Yup, there's the problem. There are all kinds of aluminum heads (even original ones like my Canadians). A few take stock length studs, some take all the same longer length studs, and some require even longer studs. As you learn more about flatheads and their speed parts you'll realize nothing is a fitz-all. Whether Speedway says so or not.
     
  7. If you got enough thread to torque the heads shorten 'em. If there is not enough thread you can buy dimensional washers (specific thickness) and shim 'em.

    Whatever ya do, do not cut threads in 'em. They will snap at the end of the threads.
     
    Dan Timberlake, Truckedup and alchemy like this.
  8. jimgoetz
    Joined: Sep 6, 2013
    Posts: 517

    jimgoetz
    Member

    I've seen Speedway (and others) Showing kits with 2 or 3 longer studs listed. I just ***umed they were to be used when mounting the oil filter to the head.
     
  9. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,372

    19Fordy
    Member

    Here's an aftermarket stud that you can use to mount the oil filter.
    Steve: Be sure to use antiseize compound on the shanks of your head studs to make future head removal much easier. Studs tend to bond with the aluminum heads making it very difficult to remove heads.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 24, 2022
    porknbeaner likes this.
  10. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 227

    Chop50
    Member

    Great tips guys, I did put Teflon liquid on the threads into the block. I cant imagine how difficult it would be to remove the heads down the road. Perhaps I should have stayed with original steel...
    It looks as though there is a mount for the oil filter that bolts directly to the head (Offenhauser 8BA). I have learned a lot in this build and $$
     
  11. bchctybob
    Joined: Sep 18, 2011
    Posts: 6,082

    bchctybob
    Member

    ^^^^ Ditto.
    Head studs, valve to head interference, funky spark plug fit, distributor drive differences, fuel pump to intake manifold interference, and all for big $$$/low HP ….. they ain’t no SBC, that’s for sure.
     
    das858, chopper99 and MCjim like this.
  12. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 22,765

    alchemy
    Member

    8BA heads have a dedicated trio of bosses for the filter. The earlier flatties use the studs to hold the filter bracket. The filter bases are not the same.
     
  13. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,372

    19Fordy
    Member



    Yes, these Merc heads have dedicated 3/8-16 threaded holes for the filter.
    IMG_4697b.jpg IMG_4695b.jpg
     
  14. I personally prefer copper anti-seize. But Teflon works. I would have also smeared sone on the shanks where they p*** through the head. I have pried more than one head from a flatty that the shank was seized to the head. I actually have some hard wood wedges in the tool box that my dad had made just for separating a seized head.

    Note extremely OT for this forum: some of you guys play with flathead Harleys, they have the same problems and all of this would apply.
     
  15. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,372

    19Fordy
    Member

    Pork******'s suggestion to use plenty of anti-seize on the shank of the head bolts or studs
    should be followed. A friend of mine had an aluminum head "seize" onto the shank of the headbolt
    and the top two threads in the block broke off as a wooden wedge was used to pry up the head.
    It was an expensive repair.
     
  16. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 227

    Chop50
    Member

    Hi Guys,
    I have been hearing this same advice from others. Thanks for that critical advice!
     
  17. Chop50
    Joined: Jan 16, 2006
    Posts: 227

    Chop50
    Member

    I am guessing that the ARP studs while expensive may be a good investment (if I am correct in understanding that they have an Allen head
    on the end of the stud)? might make for easier removal later on.?
     
  18. 19Fordy
    Joined: May 17, 2003
    Posts: 8,372

    19Fordy
    Member

    I doubt if the Allen Head makes stud removal easier.
    I would think that "double nutting" the stud woud be better.
     

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