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Hot Rods 57 FORD Build #2... Glutton for Punishment.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jeff Norwell, Oct 20, 2021.

  1. 34fordjay
    Joined: Sep 10, 2009
    Posts: 110

    34fordjay
    Member
    from Mass USA

    The #1 black car looks very vicious. Please do not change that color.
     
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  2. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member


    Never Jay.
     
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  3. Cpt. Fred
    Joined: Jan 25, 2022
    Posts: 16

    Cpt. Fred

    i must say as well, it looks deliciously evil.
     
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  4. djfordmanjack
    Joined: Apr 10, 2010
    Posts: 35

    djfordmanjack
    Member
    from Austria

    AMEN !

    Wait....I am not supposed to say this in this context, am I ?:D
     
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  5. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member


    hahahahahaha
     
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  6. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    So. gathering some things for my gauges.. and wanted an opinion.....
    I picked up a copper tube kit for my mech. oil pressure gauge(vintage SW)....
    I have the nylon kit as well....but concerned about the copper unit.

    Had one on a hotrod once and the tubing failed. causing a mess.
    Not sure which one I want to go forward with.

    IMG_0686.jpeg
     
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  7. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,871

    RmK57
    Member

    I have one in nylon and one in copper and both have been trouble free for years. Both of my gauges are run through a port on the upper top rear of the block so no real heat source. If your running a line towards the front of the with headers and such I would only use copper.

    What failed on the copper line? Split, cracked, kinked, ferrule came out?
     
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  8. I vote copper. I'm old enough to remember when nylon came out and people didn't understand that it wasn't as tough as copper. Plenty of stories from back then. :)
     
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  9. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member





    Terry,
    The incident I spoke of was in an Old A coupe with a baby Hemi I had years ago.... the line broke right at the entry point at the fitting..(I did not install it)
    And I assume it was from constant vibration from the engine.
    I have run the nylon units on other cars... with no issues whatsoever.

    I am leaning towards the copper unit,.. and would run it up, then across the intake(tucked neatly beside the VC) towards the fire wall, with a nice rubber grommet then into the gauge itself.
    Should be fine.The oil filter(as you guys know is lower left front, down on the FE.

    I could run it along side the block but then it gets tight around the rear of the block/firewall area.
    And the heat issue could be a problem down the road.
    I possible may roll the line somewhere on its journey into a small coil to have some give and take or flex on its path.

    I tend to overthink small things like this.

    Thanks for the advice gentleman.
     
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  10. ..............Very important.
     
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  11. Ditto ^^^^^
    A couple of loops formed around a socket and you’re good.
     
  12. Sky Six
    Joined: Mar 15, 2018
    Posts: 12,257

    Sky Six
    Member
    from Arizona

    Jeff, use copper simply because of the burst pressure. Extreme heat (like Arizona) or extreme cold (like your garage:)) would cause the vinyl to burst.
     
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  13. I have to respectfully disagree. I live in Toronto area (Ontario Canada) and have only ever used the vinyl tube. This includes my present year-round driver ... never had an issue of any sort.
     
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  14. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,881

    atch
    Member

    I'm not sure which would/could fail so I have no opinion that way. However, we (several of us Midwesterners) were at the Pueblo mini-nats in '97. Ed was in his sbc Anglia when he suddenly pulled off of the road and the rest of us fell in behind him. He had lost all oil pressure, or at least his mechanical gauge told him. Turns out the plastic/nylon tube had broken right at the gauge. A couple of minutes cutting a quarter inch of tubing off, reinserting the tube/ferrule, tightening the nut, and all was well. If copper had failed I doubt it would have been such a simple fix. Of course had it not been right at the gauge it would not have been so easy.

    So, no opinion or advice here, but the results of one real world experience.

    I had plastic/nylon tubing to the mechanical oil pressure gauge in Clarence for 25 years without trouble. When I ordered new S-W gauges I bought all electrical units so no more tubing for me. My only reasoning was that I can hide electrical wires easier than tubing.

    Honestly I doubt it will make much/any difference. If you do a quality job of installation (& I'm sure you will) I doubt you'll ever have a failure with either.
     
  15. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    And Mike.. that's the real world experience I was looking for.
    thank you.
     
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  16. Ford blue blood
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 775

    Ford blue blood
    Member

    Jeff I would use the copper line. There will not be a vibration issue at the filter with it clamped to the valve cover. After the run along to cover put a loop, much like the brake lines, in it and clamp it to the fire wall prior to going through it. The loop will tolerate the engine movement all day long.

    I used this method on my Boss 302 for both the oil pressure and oil temperature gauges and had no problems over the two seasons I raced the car. They were still in the car when I sold it to my brother after six years being back on the street.
     
  17. I would use the copper as well, I much prefer it over the nylon, I have, in my younger days, had the nylon lines fail. As long as the copper is supported so the fittings aren’t supporting it you will be golden. Plus it just looks sooo much better then the nylon.
     
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  18. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member


    Thank you Bill.
    Again,...real world advice I am looking for.
    This is my exact thoughts as I take a coffee break and stare at the car(yea,. I do this a lot!)
     
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  19. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member



    Agreed Lane! thank you!

    Jeff
     
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  20. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    So.. finishing up the headers,.... with Gaskets and tying in the collectors.
    Since no gaskets were available.... I located some Felpro exhaust gasket sheets, made a tracing of the pattern I needed,... and carefully made my sets....Using tin snips and slowly cutting the patterns,. I made 2 sets... keeping a set on the wall.. just in case.... ya never know.
    I did have the flat surfaces of both the headers, collector surfaces machined, to provide a good mating surface.Since these things are a 2 piece unit... I have taken all the steps for (hopefully) no leaks.
    I also (on several recommendations ) used Remflex exhaust Gaskets.... Came highly from a lot of FE guys.
    In the past I have used Por-15 Exhaust heat paint.... let them cure naturally, then the engine will cure them.... I have had way better results than any VHT product...
    Also.. when sandwiching and tightening the pieces together, I use the copper gasket maker.... again. always good luck with that stuff.


    163.jpg 164.jpg 165.jpg 166.jpg 167.jpg 168.jpg
     
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  21. That Ultra copper is good stuff.... It does take heat to cure properly, but I've never had a leak when I've used it.

    The guy that turned me onto it used instead of gaskets on a hobby stock with a heavily ported head, said he never had a leak.
     
  22. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member



    Agreed Steve.. that Copper stuff is gold.
     
  23. Blues4U
    Joined: Oct 1, 2015
    Posts: 7,579

    Blues4U
    Member
    from So Cal

  24. Will there be exhaust after those tubes or just going to drop off the header?
     
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  25. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Yes... running full exhaust.. no H pipe...no Y pipe...... just a full true dual exhaust ,exiting past the rear bumper by 1 inch.Plans are a "2 1/4 plain old exhaust tubing through out.
    Thats sufficient for this car.... with glass packs to enhance the beauty of an FE exhaust note.
    The header collectors were made a little long, to give my exhaust guy options.
    Adding an Y or an H into the system alters the sound in my opinion and is really useless on a street car unless your running over 500-600 hp.... again my opinion and a waste of time.
     
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  26. I've heard an H or X helps with low end torque, but I'm planning on nice big long glasspacks, i want it to be loud, but not deafening, and it needs to crackle.
     
  27. RmK57
    Joined: Dec 31, 2008
    Posts: 2,871

    RmK57
    Member

    Using the 2 1/4" will make it a little quieter also versus having 2 1/2"-3". Mine has 3" with a H-pipe welded in and you really need hearing protection for any longer drives but I also don't have tailpipes.
    I've also heard it helps improve torque a bit and makes the engine take on a different tone. One sound I dont like is the sound you get when you install a X downstream. Everyone I've heard they seem to make this "chirping" sound when you tramp on it.
     
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  28. Jeff Norwell
    Joined: Aug 20, 2003
    Posts: 15,053

    Jeff Norwell
    MODERATOR
    Staff Member

    Well..... we now turn to the Spaghetti Western.. should be electrifying ... yea..... the wiring stage.
    I used to hate it. but now.. from starting fresh..... I find it peaceful and relaxing.....
    In the past.. trying to get around old wiring or others Hack jobs. it was very frustrating.
    Doing it yourself.. you know where all is and keep it simple.
    Using a Speedway Kit,..simple and cheap..... I just don't have the $$$$$ to get into a RF Kit... nor do I need it.
    At any rate, very basic.... 22 circuit no power anything.. and All I want is a front and rear 6x9 speaker to maybe hear music through my phone.
    Just like Tom Waits says..... 169.jpg 170.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2022
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  29. I've recently been doing quite a bit of wiring, its not bad to fix up when you understand what which one does.
     
  30. Sky Six
    Joined: Mar 15, 2018
    Posts: 12,257

    Sky Six
    Member
    from Arizona

    I do NOT do wiring ! I beat metal, roll metal, bend metal. The last thing I purchased was a Speedway kit and a fire extinguisher.
     

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