New Here, and this is my first pre 60s hot rod. I have built several projects start to finish but had always wanted a 26/27 Coupe. I found this 18 months back and have done a little bit and have a good direction to go with it. B by Henry27T posted May 3, 2022 at 7:19 AM C (2) by Henry27T posted May 3, 2022 at 7:19 AM
Removed and sold the chassis and running gear, basically everything below the floorboards. This will be a traditional full fendered, very respectful of the original car but with a EFI V8 and updated drivetrain, suspension and brakes. 11-3 D (2) by Henry27T posted May 3, 2022 at 7:19 AM 11-3 B by Henry27T posted May 3, 2022 at 7:19 AM
I looked at at least half dozen chassis/ suspension fabricators and Boling Brothers was the only shop that has the jig / plans / measurements for a stock orientation full fendered model T coupe. (others could but for premium additional cost) These guys are first class fabricators and can build as much or as little as you want, I had them build the basic chassis and supply (Multiple Sourced) front end components they have confidence in, and all the tabs gussets and link bars for a triangulated 4 bar set up on the rear. I will be installing my own trans and motor mounts, front shock mount (the model T does not use front shocks) steering, brakes and rear end. shipped to my door and just an awesome value. the pics are when it shipped and how it arrived. https://www.bolingbrothers.com/ check out their site great stuff.
I read the rules, I dont see what may be the issue, please enlighten me on the rules that may be in question. I'm putting in an late 60s v8 in a almost factory bodied 27model T its not a restoration and its not a rat rod. its a home built budget friendly traditional "Hot Rod" I will give some info on parts and pieces used but that is to the benefit of any reader. seriously what is the issue?
It might be the EFI, some are concerned about. The 60's flavor, would be perfect for that "T" for sure. Should be a great build.
EFI is not shown here and what updated suspension most independants will not be welcome. Looks like you have a cool project if the efi is the only issue just dont take about it here and dont focus your pics on it and you should be alright
Looks like you have some great pieces to start and work with. The Boling Bros make a great looking frame. The rule that I think everybody is questioning is that in your opening you mentioned EFI.
OK, Driveability and Safety are not really meant to be controversial. Im not leaving the car without front brakes either, and it will have radial tires. I get it, I am old school myself.
So is this car HAMB friendlyhttps://www.allpar.com/threads/1958...rld’s-first-electronic-fuel-injection.228433/
I established ride height, wheel and tire combo plus stance so I was able to measure engine combo, radiator with fans and shroud. This gave me engine position front to rear. I am well aware it will sit under /inside of cowl but the standard wheelbase, fenders and hood all will remain to factory specs.. This gives me a small window to fab the tranny mount. I had Boling Brothers install their standard flange for SBC/Auto expecting to modify for Ma Mopars finest small block 727. I am using a later style modified spool mount. Their mount flange is just a flat plate, i removed a center section for mount clearance and low transmission position
The firewall on my 26 is moved 4inches into the cowl & I have plenty of room for the sbc motor on a 32 frame. At 6foot&240lbs I had to modify the seat to fit comfortably in the coupe. My shifter is on the steering column. God speed on your build and looking foreward to more updates..........
Cool.. A reliable driver for today's roads, looks the part and should provide lots of learning and entertainment - plus it puts another T back on the road - Awesome!
Thanks all for the comments and support. Brent, the body has had a couple paint jobs and has some previous work, the rear panel is definitely needing to be replaced. (IF someone has one in very good condition available please contact me) and I have bought like new Front fenders aprons and running boards, but overall the car had almost every part except the roof wood so I'm better off than many others to start. 26hotrod, I am 6-1 230 I know I did not want original seating position but the chassis hood and fender proportions are staying original to the T (non negotiable) so the engine will be set back under the cowl. I will be seated at the back of the cab looking out of the quarter windows.
Wheel and tire combo looks like they came off a 4wd pickup. Take a look at the coupe @-Brent- is building for inspiration
Tman, I like Brents coupe, and his fab skills are awesome. But your suggestion is a poor comparison, I am building nothing like that coupe. The model T needs a 30" tall tire to fit the rear fender, and it is 10" wide which fills the space perfectly. I chose before I started that I was not going to cut into the body for extra wide tires and they will not protrude outside of the fender either. A 15" tire that is 30" tall are usually slicks or very wide. The options are limited I am using a iirc 205 65 15 in front and a 265 50 17" rear which are a matched set. I'm going to be running 3:55 gear so the car should cruise comfortably at 70 around 2600. I am sure once the car is put together a little more your 4x4 reference wont be the case.
Your The rears are fine. But the big mistake with big n littles is most folks do NOT GO SMALL ENOUGH on the FRONT! I would not run anything bigger that a 165 on the front especially with the narrower T fenders. Most folks are just to used to what works on a full body 50s or 60s cars and are afraid to do a true stepped set of hot rod rubber
@Henry27T https://www.macsautoparts.com/model-t-ford-rear-panel-under-trunk-lid-coupe-16-56381-1.html If Mac's sells it then Snyders and the other small guys likely do, too. I'm not near my Snyder's book at the moment (I am standing under the shop heater, hahaha). What front axle are you planning on?
I like the wheel and tire combo you picked. Not even close to a 4WD pick up. Go to small and it looks like its got the micro spare off an import. I dig it!! Keep posting
That under the deck lid panel that you need bolts on - but it doesn't just bolt on. It fits behind the "T" shaped moldings on either side. The best way to do this would be to unbolt the quarter panel in order to slide it into place. Since I was too far into the game when I purchased that panel, I made a vertical slice in order to tuck it into place and weld up my cut.
I love projects, if you are going to have parts of the build that dont 'fit' the HAMB perhaps not mentioning might help. There are quite a few cars on here like that. Looks like you are using a dropped I beam with hairpins which fits in here just fine
Engine angle established to horizontal with planned chassis rake, chassis angle recorded for future reference. Engine mounts welded in., the brackets are pretty close but I will need to add permanent spacers or shims because stacked washers are not acceptable