So you're saying those plugs are mounting taps for the gen/alt and they're on the wrong side? They should be on the drivers side correct? For the 283?
No no. The 4 pipe plugs on the passanger manifold that has 45 degree dump. Drivers side should have this type generator/alternator mounting point.
Okay, got it... i'll start looking. I've never seen those while scouring the web. I'll keep looking. I have not actually purchased the other ones yet.
I just said what I had to say because I'm unsure how you want things to look. As original to how the factory did things and era correct is the look your after?
A few years back when I aquired my GMC I did a white board comparison. Rebuilt smallblock vs. crate vs. OT junkyard LS (carb'd & EFI). At that time the basic crate engines were about $1800, now they are closer to 2400. After penciling out the 4 different builds they all came down to within a few bucks of each other. Some of this depends on what a guy has for parts sitting around of course
seller claims they're "new unused", which they actually look, and they're 150$. There's another interested party. We'll see what happens. Thanks again
I don't think I have paid for any of the sets I have. All were takeoffs when folks added headers or came on engines. You just need to be patient and start networking
At one time in the mid 00's you could get that basic 350 crate for about $1450, it is no longer. Even came with a warranty if installed in certain GM models. Was a no brainer for many of my customers
That L/H manifold you have shown is for an alternator bracket. If you get the correct Generator type rams-horn manifold your existing 235 generator bracket [that bolts to the 235 block] will attach to that. Generators are less desirable in modern conversions so the generator mounting exhaust manifold is used less often and should be readily available. Please excuse the incorrect 1958 Air Cleaner [I wanted a dry paper element] My engine is a "Bitsa" . I used small port small chamber 265 heads and 2 barrel intake on my 283 With a zero decked block it cc's at 10.0:1 compression I chose a low RPM "torque cam" and a 2 barrel 2G carb. This engine pulls very hard up to 4500 rpm and with the 3 speed column shift is quite pleasant to drive. I don't need to downshift all the time in traffic. My goal was to get an old 57 Chevy to behave like a Diesel SUV I still have the original correct matching heads and intake /carb in my garage for later use. Other mods were a single big-bore exhaust, electric choke, canister oil filter, PCV valve, rubber rear main seal, priming electric fuel pump. Remember our grandmothers probably drove these cars as daily drivers back in the late 50's early 60's, so there is no reason why they can't be used as a daily driver today [with a few carefully selected mods]
I have been planning the same setup 2bbl and all. But recently have been looking at using the Eldelbrock SP2P that came with my engine and something like a 4Jet or carter 4bbl?
I would bump the compression to 11to1, stick some 300 327 heads on it with an isky revmaster solid cam, old single planeTorker intake with a 780 vac sec holley on it, accel dual point dist, a set of headers, 4 spd and some 4.88's in the rear. Course I'm that way.
The easiest method is go big under a small port engine [350 shortblock under 305 or power pack heads] But that wouldn't be any fun compared to a 283!!!! I love the manners of having a "High velocity fuel feeder" . My engine falls on it's face at 4500 rpm which is exactly 100 mph with 3.55 stock rear end. I chose 2 barrel because I had access to a 265 manifold and heads [they had a good valve job done to them] AND later on I would consider a tri-power [with a modified "batwing air cleaner"] A quadrajet onto an old SP2P would get good manners [and mileage] This ^^^^^ is what we should all be doing when building a "Shop Truck" Toyota did exactly what I did with their Prius Engine [don't laugh] , they built as much static compression into the engine for cylinder pressure, then starved it back with cam timing. NASCAR also do the same with restrictor plates on engines [instead of cam timing] And use a Japanese car as a daily driver
I think Car Craft did a series of articles in the early 80's where they got 25 mpg out of a Monte-Carlo Barge and also got 14.0 quarter miles. Called "Project Econo Performer" or something like that. With today's gas prices ,I think my crystal ball gave me good engine building advice
I was in my garage last night looking at an Edelbrock dual four set up when I remembered you're wanting to run an original Batwing air cleaner. I also have an original '57 dual four setup that came on a 245HP Vette. That is a powerpack head, hydraulic cam version of the 220 horse engine with the dual fours. I was surprised to find that the center to center carb spacing is 1 inch closer on the Edelbrock than the Vette. The air cleaner is not a direct bolt on. That either saves you $1600+ for the repo air cleaner or causes you fabrication to make it fit. The air horn diameter is larger on the Edelbrock carbs. The exhaust manifolds are available on ebay of even RockAuto. About $150. The '57 bellhousing is available from Classic Chevy or Eckler. Not cheap. You can almost buy a scatersheild. edit: didn't see bellhousing on Classic Chevy. There is one is on Amazon
Yes! And no wiring mods are needed for the charging system. The main wire 12v feed from the starter motor to the ignition switch, and "S" post needs to be lengthened [plus the starter "R" post to the coil also needs to be lengthened] Now would be a time to add a fusible link into the ignition feed wire. [GM used the old faithful "total loss" ignition wiring] Note , The best way to lengthen the starter motor wires is to mount a Ford starter solenoid on the firewall or inner fender within reach of your existing wires , and get a new H/D wire from the solenoid to the Starter [and bridge the solenoid at the actual starter] This cures any future heat soak problems, and eliminates joining wires Also the wire from the ballast resistor to the coil , and oil pressure sender wire need to be shortened [these are now closer to the firewall instead of being on the side of the 6 cyl engine] Also with the bellhousing , You will need a 3 bolt starter or starter nosecone [I swapped the nosecone onto a Big block high torque atarter on mine] Also a 167 tooth flywheel that is neutral balanced. [if one isn't already on your 283] You have one of the simplest swaps ever.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/8-30-283-sbc-forged-flat-top-pistons.1264862/ Need these for your build?
The purpose of a docile old cruiser [especially LHD in NZ where we drive on the left] is to cruise along Marine Parade at Mount Maunganui beach getting "whip-lashed eyeballs" in summer. We have 2 other cars that start with "F" and have a horse on the grill . The White one with Blue stripes is a race car, and the Red one is a street car for showing off.
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