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Projects 1931 AV8 Roadster Subassembly Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by So Cal Brian B, Feb 4, 2021.

  1. I spent most of the day cleaning crap out of the garage in order to have room for the frame and have some space to work around it. I emptied my bench and moved it outside with the help of my neighbor. He also helped me move the frame in and get the front and rear end in place. We also dropped in the shortened K member.

    I know it doesn't look like much progress but it's a huge milestone for me. Anyone who has done this knows just how much time and energy it takes to get to this point. I feel like I have hit another level in the build and can't wait to start getting the engine set in place on Monday.

    Here is where I ended up last night.

    Thanks for following along,

    Brian

     
  2. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,038

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Great progress Brian. That is a ton of work in a short time, you're killing it man. Love the whole setup you've got going on. Looking forward to the next update.
    Oh, and I get into enough trouble with my own wife:)
    Aaron D.
     
  3. Thanks Aaron D!!

    I learned so much from your videos and I continue to refer to them during my build. Thank you so much for taking the time to tape and post them. I now realize how much work it is just to take pictures and update the thread. Sometimes I wonder if anyone is looking at them so I appreciate your comments.

    I hope to initially install the engine tomorrow morning and see how much clearance I have at the radiator and the cowl. Going to try and get the engine in there in the exact center. I think the K member is pretty much going to determine my front and back location. I am hopeful I will have clearance on both ends. I will soon know.

    Thanks again for the encouragement and for all of you contributions to the HAMB during your build!!

    Brian B
     
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  4. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,960

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    It's looking great! Thanks for keeping us upto date!
     
  5. Thank you Outback!! I appreciate the positive comments. It helps to keep me going!!
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  6. I've been keeping after it the last couple of days. I was able to drop the engine and trans in on Monday. I took some quick measurements from the front of the motor mount to the center of the radiator locating hole and it as at about 5 inches. I was concerned that this was going to push the motor too far back and into my firewall so I located and swapped out the '32 wishbone for a '33-'34 one so I shortened up the front gap. Now I am probably too far forward.

    I set the radiator in place and my pump outlets touch my radiator inlets and I am just about 1/4" shy of having my radiator mounting hole line up with the frame. It's funny with even the pump inlets and the radiator outlets touching I still have plenty of fan clearance to the radiator. I am using a '32 Walker radiator.

    Before I do anything more, I plan to set the body on the frame to see what my firewall clearance is. I should have done this before I swapped the wishbones. I am waiting on some help to drop the body on the frame and then I will know what I need to do. I have a feeling that I will end up modifying a wishbone (not the '32 one for sure) in order to come up with a spacing somewhere between the '32 and '33-34' lengths. Time will tell.

    Some shots of the engine placement with the '32 wishbone in place:

    The '33-'34 wishbone on top of the '32
    Engine placement with the '33-'34 wishbone in place
    Stay tuned for an update once the body is on. I should know then what I need to do. I think I am going to end up right in the middle of the two different wishbones with engine placement. The joys of building your own hotrod. I am enjoying the journey!!

    Thanks,

    Brian
     
  7. j ripper
    Joined: Aug 2, 2006
    Posts: 856

    j ripper
    Member
    from napa ca.

    Brian, definitely set your body in place before committing. You will most likely be modifying the 33 34 wishbone to get this to land exactly where you need it to.
     
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  8. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,735

    alchemy
    Member

    I have shortened up a 32 wishbone a little (maybe a half inch) with no cutting. I heated the forged yoke and basically shoved the ball forward. I actually did it by heating the yoke in 4 different places (right up close to the ball, and out at the corners) and bending each one individually, but the concept is the same. Turned the yoke U into more of a W. Nobody has noticed it yet. If you go extreme you might need to grind a little from the crossmember flange where it mounts.
     
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  9. Thanks j ripper for the advice!! I should have an excellent idea of where I am at with the body in place. I'm very interested to see where the body is in relation to the engine. I want to make sure I get this right so as not to create any additional issues. I have a '40 wishbone that can donate the extra I may need.

    Very interesting and innovative approach alchemy!! Thanks for sharing as I will keep that in mind when I see where everything lines up with the body in place.
     
    Outback likes this.
  10. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,038

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Hi Brian, this is what I would suggest.
    Put the body on.
    Install your radiator and grill shell.
    Adjust body and grill shell until your hood top and sides fit good.
    Bolt everything down so it doesn't move.
    Now with the fan installed, move your motor as far forward as you safely can.
    Aaron
     
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  11. alchemy
    Joined: Sep 27, 2002
    Posts: 21,735

    alchemy
    Member

    Then modify the wishbone to fit. The wishbone is the easiest part in the whole equation to adjust. And don't worry about the cost of a 32 vs. 34 wishbone. It will be well worth it when you are taking that first drive down the street.
     
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  12. Excellent advice Aaron D!! I am in the process of getting the body ready to set on the frame and I like your approach. Stay tuned to see how it goes and thanks again for the advice!!

    Thanks alchemy for the perspective! The wishbone modifications will be a distant memory when I running down the road!!

    Thank you both,

    Brian B
     
  13. So I have been working on getting the body ready to set on the chassis to see what adjustments I need to make.

    As is typical for me, I saw something shiny and couldn't help myself. Here is the backstory of a new addition to my project.

    I purchased the '33-'34 wishbone from an old school hot rod enthusiast and then went back and picked up two sets of headlights from him. I emailed him a couple of pictures of my project and progress and we both have enjoyed getting to know each other a little over the past few months or so.

    He emailed me a few days ago and said he had something that I might be interested in for my project. He said to come take a look at an old Halibrand V8 quick change that he had. I considered a quick change quite some time ago but decided to rebuild the banjo I had and just moved forward.

    I looked at the quick change on Thursday and he allowed me to take some pictures of it. It was at the back of the garage behind two cars and it was dark and hard to see exactly what it was. It had the Halibrand cover but I couldn't make out any other markings on the quick change itself. I told him I would do some research and let him know in a day or so.

    I attended the LA Roadster Show on Friday and was lucky enough to run into the Hot Rod Works Team at the show. He was kind enough to look at my dark cell phone pictures and gave me some sound advice on the potential purchase. Thank you Hot Rod Works!!

    I decided to take the chance and purchase the quick change and it's attached interesting drum to drum setup. I was lucky the gentleman's helper was there when I arrived so he helped me carry it around the side of a very nice '50s period '32 three window. I was very nervous that we might scratch this incredible car. We were able to get into the truck and I immediately started to tear into it when I arrived home. I had to break it down in the back of the truck because it was too heavy for me to get out of the truck by myself.

    Okay, enough of the background and here are some pictures.


    I was relieved to see the Halibrand markings in the casting. I couldn't make it out before I got it home. I broke down the rear end and was very pleased to find what appears to be an old Halibrand 201 with no repairs that I can see at this point. It still needs a good cleaning but I feel privileged to have acquired it and now I will try to incorporate it into my project. It's open drive and I will most likely convert it to torque tube to fit my traditional build.
    It is a 9-34 or a 3.78 ratio which seems pretty common for these. It has been painted so I am not sure if it is aluminum or magnesium. I need to get the paint off so I am open to suggestions. I don't want to damage the case.

    Thanks for following along,

    Brian B
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2022
  14. Score! That will be really cool for your build!
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  15. Thanks brEad!! I am pretty excited about incorporating into the build. I was lucky to find it and can't wait to see it sitting under the chassis. I need to clean it up well. I may grab a couple of extra bells to build it up so I don't have to tear apart my recently completed rebuilt banjo. I guess I would have two rear ends ready to go.

    Thanks,

    Brian B
     
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  16. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    in case you hadn't, get a good straight edge and check your frame for SAGGING near the rear motor mounts...
    i would do that before i aligned the hood and grill with the cowl...
     
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  17. Excellent advice sloppy jalopies!! I certainly will check.

    Thanks,

    Brian B
     
    Outback likes this.
  18. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,619

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    GREAT thread, Brian! The 'journey' thru those rear ends was familiar, my first was my '36 rear in 1955.
    A large number of them followed, so kudos to you for your excellent solutions for assembly.
    (I laughed at the 'bearing stack', as I have done all of them that way. An older rodder showed me how to use my head instead of my momentary enthusiasm)
    Good advice on the straight edging the frame surface. I have only seen ONE perfectly straight one, it is a NOS replacement frame from Ford Motor Co. that was bought and never used! Only problem? It was never stamped with frame #s!
    Hope your rear height is achievable without 'kicking' (or 'Z'ing) the frame. My '27 tub is atop a non-Z'd 'A' frame, and with the rails sitting right on the '40 axle housings the height is perfect! I'll be 'Z'-ing soon. Drat! This one was supposed to be easy! (satire)
    Watching with interest. Good move on the Halibrand. Is it alum or mag???
     
  19. Jeff34
    Joined: Jun 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,110

    Jeff34
    Member

    Hey Brian, Thanks for putting this thread together. You have an awesome project. Hope you don't mind, but I've been grabbing some of your pics for my roadster build. Great stuff. Can't wait to see the stance with the spring over rear and 4" front drop.
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  20. Thanks for the kind comments Atwater Mike!! The old bearing worked well in driving the new one home. I was completely overthinking the solution when it came to me when relaxing in the evening. Sometimes you just have to step away to gain some clarity. I'm really hoping the stance works out and if not I will be joining you in the "Z-ing" club.

    I'm not sure if the Halibrand is aluminum or magnesium. I need to get it cleaned up in order to make a better assessment. It looks like a dark gray on the inside so it might be magnesium. Not sure if one is more desirable than the other.

    Jefff34,

    Thanks for the encouragement and kind words. Sometimes we all wonder if anyone is reading these threads and if it's worth the effort to document and write it all down. It is time consuming and your positive comments give me the drive to keep documenting the progress. Steal as many pictures as you like. I have gained so much knowledge from this board that it feels good to give a little back. I'm hopeful the stance turns out well. Let's see how it looks with weight of the engine and body on the frame. I add 220 pounds as well so I may have to see how it looks with my large body in the drivers seat.

    Thanks,

    Brian B
     
    Outback likes this.
  21. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,619

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Guess the old adage is true:

    It takes a big man to appreciate such a small Ford.
     
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  22. Amen Mike!! I am 6'4" and have driven the roadster in it's current form. I fit and I am able to drive it but may need to rework the seat and move it back for increased comfort. I really would like to chop the windshield and modify the top to suit but I might have to look over the windshield to drive it!!
     
    Outback likes this.
  23. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,960

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    That 201 is a great score! It might be a good little project one the car is on the road - given you have a good diff to go into it...
    On the other hand pulling a just completed car apart -to swsp diffs- is a tough call too...
     
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  24. Thanks Outback for the input. I am struggling with swapping these right away but I think I will go ahead now with the quick change. I'm looking for a good set of bells so I don't have to tear apart my newly rebuilt banjo rear end. Lets see what I can find. I might utilize my rebuilt rear end so that I don't have a complete extra rear end to trip over every day.

    Thanks,

    Brian B
     
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  25. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,038

    Aaron D.
    Member

    Nice score Brian, your car is getting cooler and cooler everyday.:cool:
     
    So Cal Brian B likes this.
  26. Thanks Aaron!! Let's see if I can get this quick change incorporated in the build. I am hopeful I can get the body set on the frame this weekend and start to get my engine in the right place.

    One step at a time!!

    Brian B
     
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  27. A couple of quick updates. Another milestone seeing the body on the frame with the engine mocked up. Now I can get the engine situated and in its place. It appears that I have about an inch and a half of room to move the engine back. Should be enough to get my radiator in the right place. I have plenty of clearance between the fan and the radiator. I may have to trim the blades a bit as they are slightly hitting the filler neck on the radiator. I expected they might.

    I put some wood screws through the body to hold the wood blocks in place as I will need to put the body on and off numerous times. My wonderful neighbors came over on the 4th of July and helped me put the body on the frame. I had pulled most of the extra weight off the car to make it easier. It was truly easy with four people.

    Here are a few pictures. I haven't had the chance to get the quick change put together but still plan to use it. I cringe at the thought of pulling my rebuilt banjo apart so I am delaying that pain.

    Here is where I am as of today:
    Screws holding the wooden blocks into place. Made lifting the body into place and moving it around to line up the holes easy. Working smarter and not harder in my old age.

    Body in place:

    The rear looks like to line up nicely with the body. Can't wait to see the wheels on the car.

    Current engine placement. Looks like I can come back another inch or inch and a half which should keep me out of the firewall and keep the fan out of the radiator.

    The banjo looks pretty cool under the car but the quick change may just look a little cooler.


    Thanks for checking out my build thread,

    Brian
     
  28. That body looks very nice!
    With the body now on you'll have to change the title of the thread soon. :) Looks great!!
     
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  29. Thank you sir!! I embrace your enthusiasm and it feels very good to get another step closer.

    The body has a couple of patch panels but looks pretty solid. I plan to buff the paint out and run it as is. I like the weathered look. The top has just enough wear as well. I may chop the windshield a bit as well as the top to match. I may not be able to chop it much or I'll be looking over the windshield.
     
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  30. Time for a long overdue update!!

    I agonized for days moving the engine/trans combination around and trying to get my engine mounts in what I felt was the right position. I relied on the advice from Aaron D and other above and ensured my hood lined up and then I concentrated on getting my water pump outlets and radiator tubes lined up.

    I ended up using a 1/2" spacer to drop my mounts down to align my water pump and radiator. I ended up with enough clearance at the firewall as well as a little clearance at the pump/radiator tubes.

    I need to replace the top screws with slotted heads to make them more appropriate but these will get me by for now. Notice the 1/2" spacers between the frame and engine mount. I filled all the unused holes and cleaned up the frame around the mount area.


    After I took the picture below, I tilted the top of the radiator closer to the firewall and they lined up quite nicely. It's going to be close but I hope to have enough clearance to get my hose attached.

    Plenty of clearance to pull the heads if necessary.

    Just enough clearance to be able to pull the rear breather cap.

    I will continue on the next post. Thanks for following my progress and for all the advice.

    So Cal Brian B
     

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