Hot Rods Nature Abhors a Vacuum, Or, The Hemi A Roadster fills a void.

Well, I'm truly back to my Michigan self. Today I set about dropping the steering arms just a touch more (the tie rod still dragged on the radius rods). The right side went fine, the left seemed to be, until I foolishly pushed the tie rod in the steering arm to check. I knew it was still hot, but it was only for a couple seconds...
Of course, being hot, the taper went up far enough just by hand, that by the time I pushed it in, swung the arm over to make sure the rod didn't hit the radius rod, the boss had cooled enough to REALLY lock it together. I ran to the tool box to grab a pickle fork and heavy hammer, but by the time I got it apart the little nylon bushing inside the (polished stainless tie rod end) was boiling and the ball was sloppy. Added bonus, evidently the fumes from whatever plastic that bushing was are respiratory irritants, because my nose is still burning and my eyes are watering.
I needed to order some other stuff from Speedway anyway, so I have a new LH 11/16 rod end on the way. I decided to run the Dayton wires I had on the '34, and ordered 2 Excelsior 165R15's for the front, tubes, liners, and a set of wheel adaptors to get from 5 on 4 3/4" knock off hubs to the 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern on the hubs. The correct bolt pattern knock off hubs are available, but the 15" wheels won't clear the huge Buick drums, an extra inch turns the trick. These are wheels that'll go on it.
Lets see what I wreck tomorrow...

 

Uh, well yeah. Cheap 'glass '32 hood, cut the top in half and sectioned it to fit, cut down the sides, and hacked a teardrop shape hole to let the Hemi hang out. I'm gonna get an English Wheel from HF and learn how to make speed blisters to cover them heads...

 

Why did you leave the Automatic Transmission Cooler on the motor?

 

That's looking good. If you haven't seen them before you might want to check this guys's series of metal working and shaping videos. I've been learning quit a bit off some of his stuff.

 

3 reasons: 1. It's there. 2. The fan would have to trimmed to clear the trans cooler fittings in the radiator. I figure I'll need all the cooling I can get. 3. I kinda like it.

 

Today's project was twofold: Get transmission lines run to the original cooler on the engine, which I did, and get the brake pedal mounted to the MC bracket and get the plunger in. Success on both counts! The trans lines are hard to photograph, for the amount of time and effort it took it's not really very exciting to photograph, but I feel good being able to check that task off the list.
The brake pedal was more photogenic, I have a new "Safety Clutch" pad left over from the wagon project, and since I used one as a brake pedal pad in it, thought this one would be appropriate for the roadster. Along with the T6 Texan starter pedal pressed (that's a pun, son) into service as the gas pedal, I don't have plain pedals. Well, maybe one of them is a plane pedal (that's another joke, son), but like 'em.
In other news, a buddy of mine has a stack of FI Tech 4 bbl fuel injection units, new, complete but the boxes have been opened. He will sell me one CHEAP. I like the idea, it looks like a 4 bbl carb, and while I'll have to make an adaptor to fit the DeSoto 2 bbl intake, it'll save over an inch of height, and I can adapt the original oil bath air cleaner to it with a little cutting and trimming. I think I'm gonna pull the trigger on this and an an electronic ignition for the original dual point distributor.

 

It was almost 50 here today, which was better than yesterdays mid 30's, windy and snow showers but it still sucked. Inside the shop was warm and dry with the pellet stove roaring, and I got some stuff done. The gas tank is in, I made a simple riser out of some scrap 2x4 and 2x6 so it rests on the flange. A couple stainless steel straps for hold downs and carpet on the riser and , Bob's Yer Uncle, that's done.
I ran fuel line, replaced the tie rod end I ruined the other day, and was excited to get some boxes from Speedway filled with shiny bits. A stainless front spreader bar, wheel adaptors to unite the Dayton knock off hubs to the Buick drums (and let the wheels fit) and a pair of 175/65 R15 tires to replace the much to wide 205/60R15's on the front wheels. I was eager to see it with the Dayton wires on, and wasn't disappointed. They look great on this car, they never looked right on the '34.
I spoke with Rob Fournier about making an aluminum hood and side panels for it (as opposed to the glass '32 hood I cut up to fit), so I'll see what he has to say about cost before I make a decision. I think I've figured out how to make blisters in the 'glass hood sides, which would amount to a couple yards of mat and cloth and some resin, so it'll work either way. I sort of wince at having someone else do things for me, but it would be nice to have a neat, lightweight, beautifully made hood for it. It'd be cool polished. We shall see...

 

Oh, about the that hood... The thing is at least 5/16" thick, the sides are so rigid they won't lay against the slightly curved cowl. This bothered me, even just mocked up and held on with shipping tape, so I cut a couple reliefs in the back edge which lets it lay flat. Or lay curved. Some Dzus fasteners would hold it all together, so I think I'll try my hand a forming some blisters with pink foam and duct tape, which is how I made the rolled rear pan. Enough filler and Feather-Fill and it'd look fine...

 

Looks infinitely better with the different wheels man

 

Yes it does, yes it does. The best part is that even with 1" thick adaptors they aren't any further further out from the hub flange. The offset isn't as much as the Salt Flats. They wouldn't have fit over the Buick drums otherwise.

 

Never be ashamed to ask for help, watch as they do it and learn. When you make a mistake you also learn how not to do it.

 

As much as I liked the Salt Flats on the car, I gotta admit the wires do look good. Just glad I don't have to keep them clean!

 

Back at it today (gone for a week to our nieces wedding in Indy)! I'm gonna start wiring, finish up and bleed the brakes, and hook the fuel lines up. A buddy contacted me who has a mini van 3rd row seat he's not going to use now, so that's available. I'm getting excited

 

I didn't get it running or the brakes bled, but I DID get the mystery seat from a buddy and got it mounted. I used some hinges so it flips forward and I have a gate latch to secure it. It'll work with some finessing of the latch, so I'm happy. The upholstery of course is awful (it's from some mini-van), but it'll be easy to recover and make look appropriate.

 

Ok, enough debating with myself. I'm going to glue the 'glass hood top together, paint it, get some leather straps, buckles and Miller springs and run just the hood top. Then, when I have some time, make an aluminum top and sides later. I've gotta get something done or it'll never get done.
The scraps of aluminum are to hold it together while I 'glass up the backside to stick it all together, then I'll flip it over, take them off, and 'glass up the topside. It's like glueing a model car together.

 

Here we go. I feel itchy already.

 

Now I'm all sticky...

 

Na, but you'll be really itchy after grinding and sanding BOTH sides for paint! It'll look great though!

 

I never seen perforated mat before

 

Neither have I. The panels are extremely thick and heavy. Side panels are the same perforated mat, and are at least 5/16" thick. It's not my first choice of materials, I want to build an aluminum hood for it, but I can use these in the interim.

 

That thick mat comes from the marine industry.
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/4217

 

We use to have Woven Rover it looked like a blanket woven out of 3/8 cord like yow would use in a chopper gun. I have used a lot of both.

 

Pretty sure this won't float...

 

It's not pretty, yet, but the '32 hood top is now a '29 with '32 grill shell hood top. I stood back and took a look, the first that hit me was that it's time to clean the shop up. The second realization I had was that I should have noticed yesterday when I couldn't find my impact driver, buffer, wool bonnets and polishing compound when I wanted to polish the little camper.

 

Looks great!

 

They tried rubbing nylon stockings on your arms to remover the fiberglass dust. That stuff gets EVERYWHERE

 

The DeSoto wagon came with a new, never installed Rhode Island Wiring harness. There's some stuff I won't need or use, but I should be able to weed it out enough to use. I thought it'd look appropriate, and while some of it is wrapped in plastic from RI, it's all linen wrapped wire, in the right colors, and most of the wrapped harness won't be visible anyway.
I haven't gotten much done, what with summer fun and travel, and working on the other cars. The Diamond T got a new transmission after 10 years of towing and abuse, and I've been picking away at the finishing details of the DeSoto.

 

This is the first chance I've had to work on the roadster since we got back the middle of April! I sorted through and weeded out the original, reproduction (I think it's Rhode Island Wire) harness that came with the '52 DeSoto, and started wiring the roadster. It's going good, although I discovered I don't have an original headlight switch. Went to NAPA, they didn't have any, neither did O'Rielley's or Auto-Zone. So, I ordered a generic one from Summit. I can pull wires to the front and rear, all linen wrapped, for headlights, park/turn, taillights, (what happened, why is the font italics now?) and wire the switch in the dash when I get it. I'll use the original wiper switch for the heater, it's two speed, so it's progress.
I'm using the NOS voltage regulator as a junction block only, I have a one wire alternator.

 

The second letter (...I...) on the top tool bar activates and de-activates the italics.

 

You go man go. Digging all the work. First two times I worked with fiberglass my arms itched . After that nothing for the next few decades. May be blessed or may be odd circumstances. I love fiberglass work.