I am going to be helping my dad replace head gaskets on his 1956 Hemi. I know the head bolts need sealer but, Do all of the holes go into water jackets? As far as I could tell by using a small pick in the block, there is only one bolt that is open to water. See the picture.....I circled in red the bolt hole I believe to need the sealer on the bolt. Please correct me if I am mistaken. Also, same question with the valve cover holes. They call for sealer but, the only holes that seem to go into a water jacket is the ones I circled in red. Again, Please correct me if I am wrong. I only want to do this once. Thank you.
With the Hemi heads, I had leaks on all the top valve cover attachment points when I changed from studs to bolts to accommodate thicker aluminum covers. But I'm no expert!
It’s usually easy to see what holes are blind or not . Don’t sweat it,,,,,,sealer is really only needed on water holes . Whatever makes you happy . I think some always did it for overkill,,,,just in case . But,,,make certain they are blind,,,,,and not just some sludge built up in there . That’s a fine looking block in that pic,,,,I’m assuming it’s just a pic from the internet ? Tommy
Country Joe ,,,,,I’ve always liked your avatar pic,,,,he was a great character actor ! Something caught my eye on the block pic you posted,,,,,,the oil feed for the rockers is offset . I wonder if this was a factory defect or some early version of a oil restriction? Look at the slot below the green arrow,,,,,,all the blocks I have ever seen had the oil feed directly in line with the feed hole in the heads ,,,,,,,curious . Also,,,,it has reinforced ribs in the lifter valley ,,,,I’ve never seen this in an iron block . Does anyone know anything about this ? Tommy
That block looks like the New 392 block Gene Adams was developing a few years back. sseing that picture makes me wonder about what happened with that project.
Well,,,,it’s one of the cleanest looking iron castings I have ever seen . You must be right,,,,,,I’ve never seen factory markings in that quantity. I guess he was wanting to add some extra meat in some areas ? Tommy
It also lacks the catalog stamping at the front of the valley cover pad as well as the DPCD stamping by the distributor hole.
I've had a few early hemi's (a couple of 241'a, a 270, and two Chryslers), and they all surprised me with leaking studs (head studs, valve cover studs, exhaust manifold studs). I'd put sealer on all of them. What can it hurt? I sure wouldn't count on what is going on with an aftermarket block.
I've never used sealer on the head bolts. As said the top valve cover bolts go into water, that's why there's studs. ex man bolts going water or oil depending on top or bottom. Timing cover bolts into oil. W/P bolts....
The lack of stamping on the front of the block was common on industrial engines. I have a 354 industrial with nothing stamped on the front.
...not exactly. All 'service replacement' engines, those that came across the parts counter, would have been sold without any use codes stamped. If it is not stamped then how would you know it is industrial other than its actual usage and perhaps the valve covers?
The one I have has the Chrysler industrial tag riveted on the starter side of the block just ahead of the Bell housing flange, but no stamping on the front of the block. Rereading my post, I shouldn't have said cammon, but I have seen a few industrial Hemis this way. Disclaimer, I'm not a Hemi expert. I have enough knowledge to be dangerous.
The brass tag was also used on many Marine engines which would seem to indicate that they were not part of a regular production line...likely due to low volume.
I stud all the attachment bolt holes on my hemi block like the factory did. Sealer on all head bolts. Don't want to guess which are exposed to water and which aren't!
No head bolts on my 392 went into the water jackets however other bolts did.. Timing cover and I think the oil pan rail....I have Hot Heads aluminum heads now and none of the bolts enter the water jacket...When I ran the iron heads I took short set screws and plugged the valve cover bolt holes and screwed the bolts into the holes over them to secure the valve covers...
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