have a 302 Ford engine with freeze plug behind engine start leaking a little. What seal can be used to seal it up and not affect radiator and thermostat-- Thanks
That might depend on why it's leaking....if you want to fix it, take the transmission and flywheel out and examine the plug, to see what's going on. Usually a new plug, installed with a non-hardening sealer, after cleaning the hole well, will fix it. But if there's a problem with the hole, like excessive corrosion or being oversize or having a crack next to it, then it gets more complicated.
How bad is it leaking ? is it just weeping /sweating ? Or Dripping ? if it’s just a weep / sweat you might get away with a stop leak . Ive had good luck on winter beaters or cars on their last legs with either the Chevy “ cooling system tablets “. Or Barrs stop leak . Either one will only buy you time , not a permanent fix. For the time / money involved I would pull the trans and fix it correctly . that’s a pretty engine ya got there .
From your photo…fix it right even if you need to take the header off. Stop leak products of any kind is a last resort for me.
A couple times I've run a sheet metal screw through the rust hole in a freeze plug...but then replaced the plug (and the others, which were close to being rusted through) at the first opportunity. I don't usually bother with brass plugs, since I can afford to keep fresh antifreeze in cars now. It takes a lot of lack of maintenance to get a freeze plug to rust through.
If you can access the freeze plug but simply don’t have enough room to swing a hammer to press it in . I’ve been lucky in the past using “ block heater freeze plugs “ these slip in the hole and you tighten a screw that cinches it tight in the block , it works under the same principle as those toggle bolts for hanging stuff on drywall when you can’t find a stud . I’ve used these with success under headers and in tight spots , if your fingers fit you can weasel this guy in there . and like @squirrel said , I like using the locktite anaerobic flange sealant on frost plugs .
They make a rubber stopper type of core plug that you expand by tightening with a wrench. They work great if you don't have the room to hammer in a regular core plug.
The big question is why is it leaking and how many others are close. How do you know that is what is?
Drop the trans and fix it! I have done more than one old Mustang. Nothing in a can or magic pill will fix it. @squirrel had it right in the first post as usual!
best to fix it properly now (not via a pour in liquid) , or try later on the side of the road , hours from home , near midnight , in the rain , when you were in a hurry to get somewhere, cause that's when all the water will fall out.
If you need it just to get by for a while I use the K seal as it will work. But you should fix it properly or one day I may just blow out.....maybe
I remember fighting to drive a freeze plug into a 351W we had; couldn't get a straight shot at it. Finally spent the extra coin for a rubber expansion type plug. Two minutes, done! I carry 1-5/8" and a 1-1/2" ones in my emergency/travel tool kit all the time now.
Exactly. ^^^^^ I have an oddball small block. I could not find soft plugs that actually fit correctly. Either too big or the ones that could be installed would blow out when the engine revved (which is common). I ended up adding a pair of sheet metal screws but even with permetex they would seep. So they are currently held in with sheet metal screws and JB weld. They have been that way since 1997. I am not suggesting that anyone do this to their engine ^^^. But this is what worked for me.
It isn't worth the risk of burning up your engine to try a half ass fix on a freeze plug. it will just rust out around the half ass fix. I might see doing it in a 300 dollar beater that you can drag to the crusher if the engine burns up but not with that engine in that truck.
Bite the bullet and fix it right. Might be a good time to check the rear main seal while the trans is out. Maybe even a new filter inside the trans and a new front seal. Its really easy for me to think of things to do when I'm not the one doing it...........
The entire drive train is NEW has 110 miles on it still doing the shake down--was a complete Rest-o-Mod frame- off build every nut and bolt is NEW-- I agree going to drop trans and do it correct then I know it is done correct if and when I sell it-- Thanks for your opinion
Laugh all you want at that stuff. Nearly every PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection) on brand new off the assembly line Cars and trucks I did at the Chevy dealer in the late 90's got a pack of that tossed in the radiator. It was part of the inspection process. I suspect it was because of the number of Caviler head gaskets that weeped at the block but i put thousands of those in cooling systems.
The laughter isn't related to the product, the tablets work great. It's GM save's a Ford kind of thing.
Lol,,,,,,,I just realized how many times the term freeze plug has been used in this thread . Boy,,,,,,I remember some heated posts over that in the past ,,,,,LoL. Im indifferent to it myself,,,,live and let live ,,,,,,,but I did get a chuckle thinking about some that are reading this thread and gritting their teeth ! The Hamb truly is a soothing,,,therapeutic addiction ! Lol . Tommy
So this is a new core plug and not an old one? In that case maybe the gm miracle cure stop leak is the answer. I think everyone thought it was an old plug that was rusting through...
Like Squirrel and others have said, fix it right and forget about the magic potions. They usually do more harm than good. Besides that dam thing may be getting ready to blow out completely.
the system was pressurized and all top end was all dry -- then put on lift bottom of bell housing and on cross member seen the anti- freeze that is where the back freeze out plug is on this Ford engine---
Man, I want a lift. The older I get, the more justified it feels. Bet if I had a lift, I'd have that leak fixed by now. Oops...not my truck
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