Technical Is there any coating that is impervious to brake fluid?

What could a guy paint a master cylinder with that would last?

I figured chrome would withstand the fluid.
What about powder coating?

Any info is appreciated.

Thanks,
Root

 

Eastwood has something called
"Brake Gray Paint"
"Brake fluid resistant."
No experience with it.
There's a YouTube video.

 

Powder coat will hold up, that's what I use on masters.... although the lighter colors can discolor if not kept clean. I stick with black.

 

I was thinking wimbleton white.

 

keep it cast iron and rub some Manifold dressing o it. I did that on my 39 and just got it hot with a heat gun, still no rust on it under the floor even after no bonneville.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hot-Stuff-Exhaust-Manifold-Dressing,2158.html

 

Screenshot_20220718-123300_Chrome by chessterd5 posted Jul 18, 2022 at 12:35 PM

I found this on the web.

 

A friend gave me this one off his 57, it had been chromed decades ago...I used it on my 55 for several years, never lost any more chrome off it.

so....search the swap meets and ebay for an old chrome MC, and it'll look more traditional than powder coating, as a bonus.

 

If we had a decent chrome shop, I'd chrome it. I may have to box it up and send it with the Caddy valve covers to WA. and let @Bandit Billy drop it off at his chrome shop.

 

Powder coating works. HRP

 

Chrome for sure; before and after tells the story.

 

Guess I better find a brand new casting before dropping the coin on chrome. Typical Roothawg fashion is to have one chromed, only to find out it’s out of tolerance. Nice shiny core.

 

And is much cheaper... If you use a lower gloss powder, it can be indistinguishable from most paint.

Best stuff going for battery trays too. I'll coat a tray multiple times to get a nice thick coating. Battery acid will discolor it, but I have yet to see even a trace of rust appear on the trays I've done. Just make sure you've got every speck of rust off before coating and you have a good surface 'tooth' so the powder won't lift.

 

I use Silicone brake fluid in my Hot Rods so it is no longer a problem.

 

What has to be done to run Dot 5? If it is a new system, is it just change fluids?

 

make sure the car is finished before you put it in, because where you spill, paint won't want to stick

 

Curious about this, do you just tape over the reservoir and open ports or?

Thanks.

 

I purchased calipers already powder coated from a pretty reputable source. They looked great although I never see them through my wheels. My goal was longevity and protection from rust. The simple action of bleeding them a few times caused the area around the purge valve to bubble and chip. There was fluid there that was wiped every-time. That’s my 2 cents

 

You don't want to use conventional masking tape as the cure heat will bake that stuff on and you'll play hell getting it off. They make 'special' tape for masking but it's expensive so I try to not need it. I've got reusable silicon plugs for most small holes and use kitchen aluminum foil to 'mask' most larger holes/voids. A loosely-wadded ball of foil will mask the reservoir(s) well enough, same for the bore.

EDIT: I'll note that I usually won't plug most threaded holes as long as I can get a tap in there. I'll just chase the coating out with the tap. Powder won't go very far down most threaded holes, generally only a thread or two. Larger, shallow threaded holes for things like flare nuts I'll plug or anything with an oddball thread.

Powder needs a CLEAN, DRY surface to properly stick so make sure any oils/fluids/etc are gone before coating. Even if they're not on a surface to be coated as they can run onto them or outgas, flawing the finish.

 

The pre-coat prep work is to blame for that; they didn't get it clean enough and/or have enough 'tooth'. I see that a lot with production-line coatings, they didn't pay enough attention to the details. Properly-applied powdercoat is a PITA to remove.

 

Holy Shit!!! Hell must be freezing over as we speak! The "King of Traditional Hot Rod's and Customs" has an internally regulated alternator on his '61 Impala!!! How much longer do we have until total Armageddon ensue's? LOL!!!

 

I wasn't gonna say anything....

 

Say it's not so...

 

It's a good thing he has a sense of humor! At least it's still a 3 wire hook up...

 

But is it 'traditional'?

 

Yes, a 3 wire hook up is traditional

 

Flush your system and go with the DOT 5
I use it in the British cars I build to keep the paint on the firewall.

 

It's a brand new system. Actually, it's on paper.