Years ago I brushed on primer on a freshly blasted AA Ford truck frame, today epoxy primer on freshly blasted stuff is the way to go. It will get sanded several times before paint so what are the pro & con experiences of brushing it on? No gun to clean, no overspray........
I would guess not mixing a big batch. It might start to cure in the cup before you can brush it all on. Which also might be good to fill in the rough spots. Just guessing though. Hmmm. Anthony seems to know that I am wrong!
I'd say that Oldolds has the right idea, mix up small batches of it and figure out how much you can brush on before it starts to turn in the can while you are brushing it on. I'd just buy a batch of brushes at Dollar tree or where ever you can get them cheap and use them and toss them. I used to buy cheap brushes for the juice plant I worked as the maintenance purchaser /parts dude at and never bought any sort of brush cleaner. I didn't want cans of brush cleaner sitting around in a fruit juice/apple sauce plant. It will take a few more minutes of block sanding but so be it.
Nope. You’re not wrong. Most primers have a short pot life (remaining sprayable) and this always needs considered. The urethane and Polly primers can be as short as 1/2 hour. Even shorter as the temp rises. But most epoxies stay sprayable for up to 8 hours after mixing. The key with epoxy is its incubation period. A short time after adding the hardener. Most will recommend a 15 minute period after mixing. I messed up once and didn’t do that. Took forever to cure. Luckily, it was some small pieces.
I've considered brushing. But I wouldn't recommend using cheap brushes. They shed their bristles. Makes a mess. Besides, a better brush will produce a nicer finish.
Days or months, not that it matters. Just thinking about getting bare metal safely protected. Two dollar brush VS a $400. electrical hookup looks real good now. Bob
Epoxy is naturally slow curing. But it took a couple days to get where it didn’t fingerprint. But that was the one time we did it. You could mix a very small amount and test it.
Used a foam roller as a test on my car and you can hardly tell it wasn't sprayed.The black is done with a foam roller ,gray was sprayed
We were rolling primers in the 90s as companies developed ways to cut down pollutants. It worked well. No overspray, less taping. Had a little extra texture to sand out but not bad. I worked with an old painter. He trained under a guy that was painting cars before the first air compressor showed up in town. His first couple years painting was 100% brush work. Let it dry, then wet sand. Usually with gas. What’s old becomes new again. I’d skip the gas step though
Has anyone tried/have comments on Eastwoods optiflow roll on primers? They list both epoxy and urethane.
Lose the brush….like Anthony and a couple others have said..foam roller is the way to go…late 90’s, early 2000’s PPG was pushing this process with their primers for spot repairs…no masking, good coverage, some complained about a hard edge, but if ya had enough on, ya could get a good feather edge on it.. For a frame that nobody’s gonna see…roll away…just remember most epoxy primers don’t like to be sanded or are very hard to sand. check out PPG CRE DTM epoxy. It’s in their Industrial line..all the benefits of a direct to metal epoxy, in a very easy to sand material, you can also tint it
I agree completely. The CRE epoxy has about twice the build over DP, and sands with about half the effort, at about half the cost. That’s a win in my book.
I sometimes do the brush trick, for small touch ups, and too lazy to clean my primer gun, when finished. But I use a high build epoxy (HOK EP-2), so it goes on thick, and often, only 2 coats is enough to do a lot of filling. But most sands off later on, so no problem.
I've brushed Kirker epoxy. But only on underbody or floor/firewall repairs. Needed heavy coat anyway in those areas as they only get the primer and undercoating. Since it was horizontal, it runs into plug welded areas well, actually why I did it as it seemed to be better than spray in that use.
Any thoughts on brushing vs rolling on a windshield pinch weld? Got a few rust flakes on mine, when I change the gl*** and gasket want to address it before I put it back together. Going to try and sand it first, then coat with something, it won’t show beneath the gasket.
I use a fill and sand type of primer occasionally. I was at the store buying a gallon and the guy that owns the paint store started talking about the primer, asking me how I liked it. I told him that it is unbelievable how good it fills. He told me that another customer had told him that he had sandblasted some rusty parts, and rolled the fill & sand on them. Waited a day, then used 180 to cut it back, filling all of the pits in the metal. I've never done it, not sure how it would hold up on a customer car, but it sure sounds ingenious lol
Is there a specific kind of foam roller that works. Couple times I've used a foam roller it seemed to not get along with the paint and started to shed. One time it was Rust-Oleum red primer and the other was Dulux enamel. I really want to roll out some epoxy; but have been hesitant for that reason.
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