Technical starting an 8BA after sitting 36 years

I bought a 1950 ford coupe in Minnesota a few months ago that was sitting behind a barn since 1986. I finally started to look it over last week. When I got to the engine bay, I checked the oil, and it looked good on the stick (dirty but not bad) I opened the petcock to drain any antifreeze, and nothing came out. I did not see any antifreeze in the radiator through the cap, so I figured it was empty. When I pulled an upper radiator hose loose from it the block, antifreeze came out to my pleasant surprise. I removed the petcock and drained almost 4 gallons. Engine was not frozen up and broke! I sprayed the plugs with PB blaster and pulled them the next night and also to my surprise they all looked good (light coating of carbon). I squirted a little 30 weight oil into each cylinder and the next day I took a socket on the pulley and with very little effort with a 1/2-inch rachet it broke free! I want to do a compression test on the engine, but I am afraid I may damage it If I crank it. Should I pull the intake manifold and apply oil to the valves and remove the distributer and put oil on the timing/cam gears? Can I get oil to the crankshaft and rod bearings through the top once the intake is removed? I don't want to rotate the engine to check for stuck valves until I see if I can get oil to the crank. Any other suggestions? I think the previous owner parked the car 36 years ago because of the shot wiring Thanks in advance, Kevin.

 

It’s been sitting a long time, might be prudent (since it turns over) to pull it out and take it apart.

 

I have built a drive for a drill motor attached to an old oil pump that I can submerge into a pail of fresh oil. You might need a reversible 1/2" drive ( for the power), depending on which direction the pump works. Attach an oil hose line from the output of the pump to where the oil pressure gauge fitting was attached to the engine, drain the old oil out of the engine , then pump the new oil into the engine through the pressure gage fitting. This should pressurize the whole engine's oil system. Then you can switch on the starter with confidence that none of the bearings are dry.

 

^^^^ And I thought I was going to be cool and tell him exactly what you did. You just type too fast!

 

Exactly what I was thinking. At a shop I worked at years ago we had a pressurized tank that would pump oil into an oil gallery (as suggested above) to pre lube the whole oiling system.

 

Thanks for your reply. I am going to remove the intake and post a few more pics. I'm hoping that I don't have to take it apart. That would be an educational experience! The odometer shows 79,203 miles. Also, I drained the oil and will fill it along with a new oil filter if I can get oil to the crank. Thanks again.

 

If you're not going to take it apart and are merely going to bump it, change the oil anyway. It's not any good after that long of time. It's grimy and broken down. Pull the oil pan. Be sure to visually check the water pumps because they could be rusted and or have a build up of crap. Be sure to pull ALL of the radiator hoses to help drain the coolant and flush well.
Pull the intake to look at the valley for gunk and check the lifter and such.
I would normally say to pull the heads to look at the rust and crap on the pistons and valves and check for cracks.
This only takes a couple of hours to check.

 

Thanks Center of the Galaxie, I will try that with an oil pump and drill.

 

Thanks Flathead Dave, I am going to remove the intake and heads.

 

One of my engines is a 53 Mercury that I never figured out why it got parked decades ago. Pulling it down I thought, hey, I coulda started this! Then I pulled the pan and studied the three or four quarts of solidified junk in there. When I got to the main bearings discovered they were half eaten through from that black slime they'd been sitting in.

 

I hope that is not the case with mine! I'll know a little more when I remove the intake.

 

I hope so, too. That will be a nice car.

 

Pull the oil pan and scrape out the sludge, the oil pump screen will most likely be clogged as well.

 

I thought I would be slick and remove the oil sending unit and connect a line to pump oil into the engine using a modified Melling 55 oil pump I bought new for $40.00. Yesterday I finally got it connected to the block where the oil sending unit was removed. What a PAIN IN THE ASS! I ended up breaking the sending unit into two pieces but at least I could see the square nut that I needed to remove, even if I could hardly get to it. I checked the oil sender threads on the H.A.M.B. after the fact. Anyway, I had a spare oil sending unit and didn't think anything about it. I replaced the oil sending unit on my other 1950 ford coupe and did not remember it being so hard, so I went to where it was being stored and looked at. It was located on a tee fitting up at the oil canister. Here is my problem. The threads on the old sender, that I broke, are bigger than the threads on the one I was planning on reusing. I took the oil sending units to the auto part(s)stores and they told me the threads on the restrictive fitting that screws into the canister and the threads on one of the oil sending units are Metric! (M10) Do the threads on the reducing fitting and the oil sending units have tapered threads that get slightly bigger to seal the threads better? Seems like I am trying to put a square bolt into a round hole!

 

Those threads in the second pic look like pipe threads to me. Last pic looks like 1/8 and 1/4 pipe.

 

I agree with @KenC
And your assumption about the pipe thread is correct... they are tapered and depend on that for providing a tight seal. Pick up a couple of fittings that are 1/8 NPT and 1/4 NPT female and test fit each. Once you confirm they are those sizes you can go to a GOOD parts store and get whatever adaptor you need.

 

Thanks for the information. I went to HOME DEPOT yesterday to pick up some clear plastic hose and I saw they had pipe fittings. I bought an adapter fitting I thought might work. Hex bushing 3/8 in. MIP X 1/8 in. FIP. The fitting that screws into the oil canister and the oil pressure sending unit screwed right into the 1/8 in. FIP side of the bushing. I'm taking it back today to exchange it for a 1/4 in. MIP X .1/8 in FIP fitting. I can't believe I wasted so much time looking for this fitting. I went to two different O'Rielly's, 1 Auto Zone, Menards, 1 local Hardware store, and Thiesens. Anyway, I finally got fresh oil into the 8BA last night. Here are some pics. of the setup I did. The next step is the replace the POS. ground cable and do a compression check. My fingers are crossed!

 

I don't know exactly where you are, but one of the fittings you show in post # 14 looks like the restrictor fitting for the bypass oil filter on the car. Make sure you re-install it or you will have very disappointing oil pressure.

 

I reinstalled the restrictor fitting. I think I'm just going to reinstall the oil pressure sender unit back in the same hole it was in with a 1/4 in. to 1/8 in. adapter bushing

 

I changed the oil and filter. I pumped the oil in through the oil pressure sending unit threads using the Modified Melling oil pump. I replaced the starter relay switch (not working) and installed the ground strap and 6-volt battery from my other car. I removed the wires from the generator, voltage regulator, and coil. I then hooked up the battery and a remote start button. Next, the compression test readings, Passinger side front to rear, 90, 90, 88, 55 PSI. Driver side, front to rear, 100, 90, 90, 15 PSI. The heads are coming off today.

 

Update, I checked the compression again yesterday on the cylinder with 55# (rear cylinder on pass. side), before I began to pull the heads. To my surprise it reads 90# now. I have been cranking the engine several times in the last two days for 8-10 seconds at a time. The Neg. -cable gets a little warm. Anyway, I squirted a little PB blaster into the cylinder with only 15#, (rear driver's side) while cranking the engine hoping to get some on the vale stem and the top of the valve guide. I let it sit for a hour and then checked the compression again, blew it out with air, squirted a little oil in it and now it is reading 60#! Seems like the more I crank the engine it keeps getting better. I am going to squirt some MMO into the cylinders while cranking the engine next and let it sit for a day or so. Fingers crossed, it also goes up to at least 85#. Would it be O.K. to try and start the engine with the current compression readings? I think it might work itself out by the heating, cooling and the rapid movement (running). I'm just trying to get the car running to move it from one garage to another a block away (Storage) and back again to work on it in my garage (tools) I need my garage to work on my other car also.

 

I wouldn't take it apart until after you have run it and know for sure something is bad. Low compression readings could only be a sticky valve or one tiny hunk of crud sitting on the valve seat . Just run it !

 

Yeah, no need to take it apart. Take your time. the MMO will help it but it will need to set some keep turning it over by hand with the plugs out. It seems like it may already be loose enough. I would also use some Berrymans down the carb. Feed it in there after it starts. Sounds like you may have had a valve stuck and it working loose. Take the visible ground loose and replace them with new and better or at least sand and clean up all the surfaces well. May as well have a trickle charge on it as you go or a charger. 6 volts will go down quick. I would also get a gravity feed gas source with a short line to the carb. You can figure out how bad the fuel pump lines and tank are later after it's running. If it ain't clankin' or knockin' to bad you are on your way.

 

Thanks, I am going to rebuild the fuel pump this week. I took the carb off yesterday expecting it to be full of crud. It had a little rust dust in the bottom of the bowl and the power valve spring was rusted. It had no carbon in it except for the bottom side of the choke fly. It will get rebuilt also. I'm going to run a wire to the coil from the battery with an on/off switch today and check for spark. I cleaned the points. I'll check on the barrymans. I also plan on putting some MMO in the gas. Thanks again.

 

Short answer? If it turns over it will run. What you expect after that is up to what you are willing to do beforehand. I know the whole "Been sitting XX years, will it start?" is popular on Youtube and it is fun when it works BUT it is NOT the way to ensure it will continue to run well much longer.
From my own limited experience I wouldn't even turn one over(unless just unsticking it) without removing the intake (or valve cover on a banger) AND the oil pan. I can almost guarantee you will be surprised by what's in that pan - and not likely in a good way. Detergent oils haven't always been around and many have been restarted after sitting multiple times without dropping the pan. I can't remember the last guy that dropped a pan on a sitting engine and said it just needed an oil change. Besides the thick sludge Slopok mentioned, I have also found loose rust on the block interior and even on the pump pickup that comes off like powder and feels like pumice. I can't ever get away from thinking what that might do to the bearings and cam even if run for only a minute. A lot of junk will also come out of the water passages as well and can quickly clog a radiator.
JMO though and I'm sure many will think that's too "by the book".

 

Was there any water/ fluid in the engine / radiator? I would pull the intake , 30 minutes of work could save you thousands of dollars. Intake gaskets are cheap . You’ll be able to see the valley and general condition. If clean your lucky, if not Id pull the pan . Ive yet to see one that doesnt have a quart or two of crud . One way to tell is add 4 qts to the pan and see where the level reads on the dipstick. 4 qts for the pan one for the filter . 4 qts should be the full mark , if above , then that amount you’re above the mark is sludge or a seriously dented oil pan .

 

Thanks dmar and gary, very good points about the dirty crap getting to the bearings etc. I stuck my finger in the oil drain plug hole to see how much sludge was in there. Only a thin layer as far as I could tell. I cleaned out the oil filter can also, with only minimal black dirty oil in it. I am still on the fence about pulling the intake and heads. I pumped new oil through the oil pressure sending unit hole. Would the oil I pumped into it go back through the oil pump? I am sure I will have to replace/rebuild the water pumps and flush the radiator after I get it running. With the oil filter can mostly full of oil the dipstick read right at the full mark. 5 quarts. I will check that again. Her is a pic of the antifreeze I removed. The crap in it was in the container already. I guess about 4-5 gal. Also, I think I'm going to name the car Mary. When I was cleaning out the back seat, I found this, A little lamb.

 

It's really simple, and almost basic maintenance, to drop the pan, pull the heads, etc. and see what you have. You'll quickly know if one cylinder has had water in it. If not, might rotate to check the valves and take a look at the bores. No more than $100 that will go back into the engine if it's okay. Little lost as you won't install the new gaskets if you find trouble.
Fun stuff.
Best of luck!
D

 

Mary is appropriate . If only a thin film of dirt , go for it . It sounds like someone has recently cleaned or freshened up the motor . If it had antifreeze in it the whole time it was stored , you have a good chance of the block not being cracked DUE to freezing wintwers and only water in it .

 

Thanks, I put the car (Mary) in my garage for two or three months before I even opened the hood. The hinge bolts were broken, and also, I could barely get both doors open to put P.B. Blaster/oil on the hinges. The guy I bought it from said it sat in a field behind a barn since 1986. He said it was his grandfather's favorite car and he parked it in 1986. He did not know why he quit driving it. During loading the car, he mentioned his grandfather died in 1986. That is why he said it was sitting since then. I was surprised to see the battery still in the car. The lead battery cable end was corroded completely in two. See pics above. That told me the car was sitting a long time and no one probably messed with recently. The ignition switch was hanging down under the dash with the keys still in it! I wish I could thank his grandfather for taking good care of the engine fluids. Anyway, no spark detected. New parts are on the way from Shoebox Cental.