Technical WTF?

Pretty sure they “suck”!

 

Oh those new fangled calendar deals.....

I'm talking about the percentages. They arrived at 10%. I would like to know how. The kids at our local oil change place can't count that high.

 

Most of the time it used to be the fluid got changed when the brakes were serviced. We did a brake job it included rebuilding the wheel cylinders and/or calipers and at that time ALL the fluid was replaced. Now, people just throw brake pads on and never open the hydraulic system at all, sometimes for two or three brake jobs. Brake fluid does absorb water if it is left open to atmosphere, thats why they don't recommend using fluid from a bottle that has been open for very long. Just change the fluid if in doubt, there is moisture test strips available that don't cost much.

 

A tester or test strips.

Not saying that the service never needs to be done, I'm saying the place is suspect. I know service intervals and I also know the business (and the people I see working in it). This is why you find a place you trust and always give your work to them.....even oil changes.

 

Here’s a couple ways

 

Gimpy is right and the service techs have known this for years, as well as the more-informed among us. But few people do it, and that's what keeps the rebuilt caliper/wheel cylinder manufacturers in business. Flush your brake system every year or two and brake jobs become a simple pad/shoe replacement, with maybe turning/replacing worn rotors or drums. Brake fluid absorbs water, and water rusts/corrodes iron and aluminum. If the fluid comes out black, you've got some corrosion in there.

The downside is you really need a power bleeder to do it right and quickly, it's a slow process if you're doing the 'pump and hold' method and you may not get a complete fluid change. Pressurizing the master cylinder with automatic fluid filling works the best, but those set-ups aren't particularly cheap and are a bit tough to justify for a DIYer for as often as it will get used.

 

Flushing is just like bleeding the brakes when everything is new.
Oil change places and dealerships should have the proper equipment for doing it much faster than us do it yourselfers

 

He’s paying people back for being ignored in another thread

 

I read your post. I didn’t blow by reading it. Your post doesn’t say anything about it. I didn’t watch your video.

 

DOT 5 does not ABSORB moisture , AFAIK

 

On related HAMB era matter, I remember a story about an old lady who was always billed for oil and filter at every oil change but her 1955 Chevy didn't have the optional oil filter.

 

Did they check the flux capacitors also ?

 

See... This is the problem..
How are You gonna know they changed it or not ..
I have seen the help in Walmarts etc.
Scary..

 

I see there must not be any shop owners on here.

 

I’m sure some places vacuum out the MS and put new fluid in and call it done.
But how do you know if any work being completed is done correctly?
Using a reputable shop or dealership and not just the cheapest place is one way. Establishing relationships at repair places is another.
Or do it all yourself.

 

So acording to the video 3% water lowers the boiling 100 degrees C so it must be the water that is boiling sense water boils at 100 C so at 150 C the water should boil out.

 

That’s nothing! I worked at various Ford dealerships for approximately 40 years and you would not believe some of the things I saw. Parts not even being put on peoples cars and they get charged for it. At the Ford dealership the brake fluid would’ve gone right down the drain and the customer would’ve paid for the job. transmission overhaul that never came out of the car and the customer paid for it! It was appalling! I finally tunneled out!

 

Well*****, Im driving around in an 01 Chevy with 249k miles. Only changed brake pads twice and never have fooled with the fluid at all. Maybe I'll start changing it every 3 years on my next truck for comparison and see if I get better results...

 

Would the moisture get out in a sealed system?

 

All I know is that fifty years ago, we never tested fluid.
When doing our brake deal, no question, the wheel cylinders were popped apart with the knowledge that dirt sludge and rust were waiting to be purged and honed away.
Refilled the master and bled the system ( one man ).
Absent of doing that, failure was certain within the week.
If the tech guys today can tell things about a car that the unsuspecting drivers are not aware of, that's the times. Used to be people knew the folks that they hired.
The problem I have always had is when a shop offers to 'test' the car's systems. The fee is around $30 bucks. Nothing is fixed.
When my daughter wanted to show me a check list, I just told her what she needed based on her description and how much time I had spent going through it before handing it over to her. ( her beau thought I was ignorant for not reading it )

 

The result of being taught that we have to "W#ll-M#rt" the last nickel out of everything we buy so we can afford $6 coffee and $10 beer.

 

Until today I never knew it could be tested. That said, I’ve only tried the “suck out the MC “ reservoir and bleed method on my stuff when I see the fluid doesn’t “look” right.
We’re not dry like some places, nor do we have the humidity of others. I’d guess I go 8-10 years or so before doing what I mentioned above.
I get the idea now though that when the fluid is darker , it’s moisture? I’d always****umed it was rubber components breaking down.
Good to know.

 

I change the fluid in my bikes...ONCE a year ! Or...when the fluid goes from just discolored to brown.
Yes, you CAN feel the difference.
The brown color is caused by moisture...or...that is...water !

Water is NOT a good or even sorta good hydraulic fluid.

Because of the much heavier duty system in the cars, like others, I change the fluid in any new car that I buy within a few days, and every two to three years of general use.

Now...like with one of my cars, I can do some "track days", doing a little Solo 1 racing. In that case...after EVERY race !
YES...you CAN feel the difference !

Mike

 

You would not have sold me on the brake fluid flush job 10 years ago, but My 64 Marauder had basically sat in a garage for probably 15 years after a previous owner had cosmetically and mechanically restored it. Master cylinder and wheel cylinders and brake hoses looked brand new. But once I got it up and running again, I didn't like the way the breaks felt and decided to bleed them. Long story short the fluid looked like mud. I replaced everything and flushed the system and now they work great. Brake fluid doesn't last forever.

 

Fifty years Ago, There were only Two bathrooms.. etc

 

Sticking throttle, 1300 HP, old fluid, riding the brakes until they boil. What could go wrong?

 

On my OT pickup I do whatever is recommended by the factory... I don't want anything to void my warrentys...