Art & Inspiration Lipstick on a pig

Heck ya! budget back yard style, shade tree mechanic~n , home brew goodness!

Carry On!


I painted mine with Rust-oil-em, cheapest gallon in HomeDepot...

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/getting-the-bugs-out-my-t-coupe-build.1113406/

 

Thanks!
I painted mine with rustoleum too!
Green tractor paint I think?
I like your tub too!

If you like backyard budget stuff, I made all the aluminum floor boards out of this junk toolbox. I was kinda embarrassed to admit it so I didn't mention where I got the pieces from.

20220716_132714 by chessterd5 posted Aug 6, 2022 at 3:21 PM

20220618_151207 by chessterd5 posted Aug 6, 2022 at 3:21 PM

20220612_134602 by chessterd5 posted Aug 6, 2022 at 3:21 PM

 

20220806_160117 by chessterd5 posted Aug 6, 2022 at 4:10 PM

I'm sorry, couldn't help myself. This shot of the rear of the car was just tuff!
The body jacked up and the rear end and ladder bars showing like some 60s car.

20220806_160531 by chessterd5 posted Aug 6, 2022 at 4:10 PM

This one just shows off the channel and the rake.
Forgive me for showing off. I know it's not good manners. Thanks for the interest in the build!

 

123_1(1) by chessterd5 posted Aug 8, 2022 at 10:10 AM

I appearantly have TWO passengers patiently waiting for a ride. Lol.

 

20220814_121133 by chessterd5 posted Aug 14, 2022 at 4:25 PM

I hooked up the tow bar and took her on the Maiden voyage to the car wash.

 

20220814_172932 by chessterd5 posted Aug 14, 2022 at 5:55 PM

I got the electric component board mounted. One more thing off the list! Still plenty more to do.

 

2BLUE2…Rustoleum paint looks great!

 

Be Safe. I know you're using any materials available to get a driver, just be safe.

Can't argue with John D**re Green, classic color.

Gotta ask about the seat. Is it from a vehicle, or did it start life as furniture ? I like the look of the upholstery.

 

Just noticed the rear wheels and heavy offset, rear wheel swap to a centered wheel would allow the tires to tuck under the fender more.

Looks like the body was set up on frame for a raked body look. This does create challenge with the cowl sitting low and the hood line to radiator. If no hood is planned, it's less if a concern.
Level channeled body, unchopped, is a great look if you ever decide to make changes.
I cant tell how the fenders attach, but it looks like they could be moved up on the body if you decide to level the body.

Keep the updates coming, Go Drive and have fun. See what you like and what you want to change.

Level channeled body, but very low.




Here's a raked body with cowl approx in line with radiator support.

 

Yes sir, of course. I have paid attention to scrub line, Akerman angle, and checked suspension travel multiple times. I plan on a professional alignment when I get to that point.
I will also have the drive shaft cut down and balanced professionally. I am also going to install a drive shaft loop. All the ball joints and tie rod ends appear in good service, no obvious unintended movements.
The frame is boxed with quarter inch plate and the suspension mounting brackets are half inch.
I will be installing new bolts and nuts in the body mounts soon.
I still have the steering to do as well as the brakes. There are new brake hoses, star wheels and hardware already installed. I have already started doing research on which master cylinder and proportioning valve to use.

The seat is part of a phootan couch. I'm working on brackets to mount it to the body. I also have seat belts to install when I get that far.

 

Yes sir, the rear of the body is on top of the rear crossmember. The front is channeled the width of the frame. It does give it a raked look.
The rear fenders are mounted in the stock location on the body, in the stock holes.
I would like to put different wheels and tires on it later.
I wasn't planning on a hood. The body is pushed back 6 inches on the frame.
I do think cycle fenders on the front would look good.

 

Hurt up and get it running! The dog wants to go for a by by ride.

 

Me too!
But I still have some major steering and brake issues to work out first.

 

Somehow I've not seen this before. I'm on vacation now using a phone but when I get home I'm going to study this thread all the way through beginning to end on the desktop.

I'm liking what you're doing.

 

There are some very nice cars in this thread!

 

Ya never ever want to kiss a pig, they'll squeal on ya.

here is the rub. There was once a movement called the Rat Rod movement. It started rather innocently, get away from the high dollar pieces of crap and move back toward our roots. Simple rods built for having simple fun. Then it became who can build the most worthless piece of crap in the universe.

traditionally hot rods were often built by men who had a limited budget to have fun in. Skilled back yard builders learned what corners could be cut and what corners could not be cut and they built the best car they could given their skills and budget. We should not strive to build a piece of crap and continue to build the best car our skill set, and budget allows.

 

Screenshot_20220809-205809_Chrome by chessterd5 posted Aug 16, 2022 at 5:53 PM

I found an old picture on the HAMB.

 

I have a question.
Is there a difference in operation between a short drag link or a long drag link between the pitman arm and the steering arm on the spindle?
I am having multiple problems as far as locating the steering box and how everything will have to work together.
Thanks.

 

From the bump steer perspective the pitman arm/rear of the drag link should be even (front to back) with the rear of the wishbone or 4 bar.

 

Thanks for the help. I appreciate it

 

I started mocking up the steering today.
The box needs to be mounted on the driver's side frame rail behind the radiator with a short drag link to the steering arm on the spindle.
Will that cause any steering or geometry problems?
The steering shaft between the box and the column needs to be cut down but it wants to live in the same space as the oil filter. I did some research and found a fram PH16 oil filter that is 3 1/2 " long. I think that will give me enough space for the shaft to run.

20220827_175527 by chessterd5 posted Aug 27, 2022 at 8:58 PM

20220827_180436 by chessterd5 posted Aug 27, 2022 at 8:58 PM

20220827_175453 by chessterd5 posted Aug 27, 2022 at 8:58 PM

20220827_192705 by chessterd5 posted Aug 27, 2022 at 8:58 PM

 

That doesn't look like it will work. How about a picture of the front axle steering arm setup?

 

It might not, but the shorter oil filter is only 10 bucks so it is worth finding out.

There's not a picture of the front axle steering arm set up cause I have not made it yet. I bought 3 special bolts to mount it when I get that far. 25 dollars for 3 bolts!

 

Update, a friend helped me find a Wix oil filter that is only 2 1/2 in. long. Part number 51335. That should give plenty of room for the steering shaft.
The steering arm is going to be the real work!

 

I installed the firewall and two body mount bolts today. So I could hook up my tow bar to go do a inspection tomorrow for the state and related paperwork.
The backing plates needed to be adjusted because they were rubbing the rotors and I had to adjust the toe out a little for it to pull better.
Still plenty to do but one small step at a time!

20220907_171938 by chessterd5 posted Sep 7, 2022 at 8:20 PM

20220907_181120 by chessterd5 posted Sep 7, 2022 at 8:20 PM

20220907_162855 by chessterd5 posted Sep 7, 2022 at 8:20 PM

 

Well, my appointment was canceled.
I found out when I was a fourth of the way there. So I had to tow it back home.
I also learned that I made a major mistake when I originally set up the suspension both front and rear. I did not know that the transverse springs needed to be spread before being installed. So all of the spring perches are too short width wise on the axles. The spring shackles are hanging down at about a 45 degree angle. Instead of being straight across and parallel to the ground. So the springs aren't loaded and with the shackles being able to rotate back and forth, side to side the axles are moving side to side under the car. Sometimes independent of each other and their relationship to the car.

So if I understand this right? When the transverse spring is properly spread before installing, it acts also as a locator to keep the axle from moving side to side? Kind of like a panhard bar does?

So what I think I need to do is cut off all the spring perches? Buy, find, or make a spring spreader. Spread the springs till the shackles are straight across when inserted into the spring perches. Which should tell me where the spring perches need to be welded to the axles?
Is this right?
Any advice or suggestions on buying a spring spreader or what would be the best way to do this would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

I made that mistake. My shackles was hangin right down.
But i belive that you are about right with the tension if the shackles hang down in 45 with the cars load applyed.
I made my own very simple spreader bar.
A 1 inch pipe with a 7/8 threaded bar inside and a nut to increaase the tension.
It need alot of overlapping so it not bends when load increase.
I allso welded in some 3/16 plates in the ends that fit in the springs loops at the ends.

 

@chessterd5; I started a thread showing others' spring spreaders. These pix will probably help you to design and make a spring spreader for yourself.

 

I have decided to view this set back as a blessing in disguise.
This will give me an opportunity to fix a couple of things.
1. The rear ladder bars hang too low. I will reconfigure the mounts and tuck them up closer to the frame.
2. The front end is too low to the ground for realistic street driving. I think that I can cut the batwings and move everything up higher for better ground clearance.