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Hot Rods Brush painting model A

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Cody49Ford, Aug 17, 2022.

  1. Cody49Ford
    Joined: Aug 1, 2014
    Posts: 174

    Cody49Ford
    Member

    Anyone done it recently?! If so how did it turn out and what materials worked best. I’m thinking about trying it on my roadster. I want a 40s feel to it still, it doesn’t need to be perfect but also want it to look halfway correct. What y’all think?
     

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  2. wheeltramp brian
    Joined: Jun 11, 2010
    Posts: 3,319

    wheeltramp brian
    Member

    Mine is brush painted about 13 years ago I believe. It was first sprayed with Rustoleum flat black and then brush painted with reduced won shot pinstriping paint and a real good brush. It turned out really nice and as tough as nails. If you look very very closely when it's clean you can see a small brush Strokes which is kind of cool. I can get some close-ups tomorrow 20220702_163444.jpg 20220604_165020.jpg 20220716_084225.jpg
     
  3. Tow Truck Tom
    Joined: Jul 3, 2018
    Posts: 3,349

    Tow Truck Tom
    Member
    from Clayton DE

    Go for it. By the time I get my coupe done there won't be enough money to spray it.
    If it worked for grand pop it's good for me.:cool:
     
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  4. You could brush it with lacquer, then wet sand it.
    Ive used this with oil based paint for house trim. Looks great
    AE092C18-E158-43B0-B23E-DD891E99515C.jpeg
     
  5. Truckedup
    Joined: Jul 25, 2006
    Posts: 4,660

    Truckedup
    Member

    Cheap oil enamel, foam rollers and brush...What Anthony says above can give a finer vintage look...
     
    Stogy likes this.
  6. Boiled linseed oil can be added to Rust-Oleum or 1 shot. It will help the paint flow better and reduce brush strokes. The down side is that it takes longer to dry.
     
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  7. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,675

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Every time I see a post about painting a car with a brush and Rust-O-Leum, part of me dies just a little...:rolleyes:
     
  8. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,251

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I have a friend that has painted several cars if I remember correctly a product called trimclad (Canadian version of rust oleum) . He told me he would lay down a few coats and let sit for some time and then wet sand before adding more coats.
    At some point I’m going to do the same, I’ve done some test panels using a small foam hotdog roller and it lays down amazingly nice.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2022
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  9. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 5,251

    rusty rocket
    Member

    Hey it’s about traditional cars on this sight. I’ve seen dozens of old field cars painted with a brush. It was done.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2022
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  10. LAROKE
    Joined: Sep 5, 2007
    Posts: 2,088

    LAROKE
    Member

    This video got me started "Rustoleum the right way"

     
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  11. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,675

    flynbrian48
    Member

    Painting is a skill that I have struggled with for decades, and am proud to have in my tool box. It's a source of pride. I get that paint is expensive. I get that it was "traditional" for teenagers with no resources or skill to have painted their jalopy with a brush in the past, and I get that it's difficult to do, but seriously, it's much more labor intensive, the job isn't gonna be as good, and if it has to be touched up, or one wants to do it "right" at a later time, it's a huge mess. It's traditional to learn and master something new. Just because your grandpa did it that way, doesn't make it right.
    Having said that, I use tractor enamel or Rust-O-Leum and catalyst for stuff that I don't want to pony up for auto paint, and/or don't really care about. Like the propane tanks on our camper, for instance. Or a trailer frame. Sprayed, not rolled, and it does lay down nice and with the catalyst it has stayed glossy and hasn't faded or chalked.
    There's a place for everything, but just anything is not correct for everything.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2022
  12. Early in my career I worked with a much older painter. He worked with a painter that used brushes early in his career. This painter had to use brushes. Seems model Ts we’re sold before an air compressor was bought in town
    So brushes was the only method. Brush, sand, brush, sand polish.
    I’ve seen some slick brushed paint that looked great.
     
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  13. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 8,129

    A Boner
    Member

    Easier to just use Rusroleum spray cans. Just paint one panel at a time. Might take a week or two of monkeying around, but it will turn out great. Unless you want to end up with brush marks, spraying will end up smoother. To not end up with brush marks, when using a brush, lots of block sanding will be needed. Using a HarborFreight purple spray gun instead of spray cans would also be way cheaper! But talking from experience, painting one panel at a time makes the paint job way less stressful.
    If you want some brush marks, that can be cool too, just don’t overdo it and keep them to a minimum.
     
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  14. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,777

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    There are decent paints that aren't crazy priced and do a good spray on finish without breaking the bank. When I shot my coupe a year ago I bought my paint from TCP Global in their Restoration Shop acrylic urethane single stage and the paint kit was just over $200. The gallon kit was enough to shoot 5 coats, and it laid down nicely, and was easier to do than I thought. This was my first attempt at painting a complete car, and I just covered my walls with plastic sheeting and went for it.
    [​IMG]

    I contemplated roller, brush, and even rattle can paint jobs. But glad I chose to spray it instead.
     
  15. Cody49Ford
    Joined: Aug 1, 2014
    Posts: 174

    Cody49Ford
    Member

    That looks great!!
     
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  16. Cody49Ford
    Joined: Aug 1, 2014
    Posts: 174

    Cody49Ford
    Member

    My thoughts exactly!
     
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  17. Cody49Ford
    Joined: Aug 1, 2014
    Posts: 174

    Cody49Ford
    Member

    Sp
    Sorry to hear that, I’d avoid threads titled “ brush painting “ or of similar nature ! ;)
     
  18. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,618

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    Thinking about it on my '27 T Touring. (kinda appropriate, inasmuch as I'll be 80 in October!)
    True Grandpa paint job... (only 'maybe')
     
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  19. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 12,563

    Petejoe
    Member
    from Zoar, Ohio

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  20. HOTRODPRIMER
    Joined: Jan 3, 2003
    Posts: 64,581

    HOTRODPRIMER
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Brush painting a car or truck it is best to use a industrial enamel, like Anthony suggested penetrol is a excellent additive used to help thin and contributes to the flow, I would suggest using a pure bristle brush over a cheap ntlon brush, someone suggested using a roller, try to use a short nap lambswool roller and not a nylon roller, they tend to shed.

    Clean up with mineral spirits or paint thinner. HRP
     
  21. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 5,263

    ekimneirbo
    Member
    from Brooks Ky

    If someone is going to brush paint a car like they did"way back when".........shouldn't he use the same type of paint that was available back then? Will he get the same result if he uses modern products? As for the "boiled linseed oil", I'd never allow that stuff any where near my shop. Poof and you have a fire in your shop.
     
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  22. Cody49Ford
    Joined: Aug 1, 2014
    Posts: 174

    Cody49Ford
    Member

    Thanks to regulations and the great state of California we’re limited to what we can use that’s why I’m asking for advice of what has worked well for folks
     
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  23. Thanks for the brush info. Each year we do a project for competition. I think this years should be a brushed paint experiment.
    Can brushed paint be made to look like sprayed?
    I’d like to try both oil based and lacquer.
    The “Japaning” process used by Ford would be fun to try as well.
     
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  24. For me, oil based enamel with the penetrol has worked great.
    I have house trim that I have used that process next to trim I have sprayed. You can’t tell the difference.
    Both were primed and sanded with a lacquer primer
     
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  25. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,895

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Always use a NEW BRUSH.
    You use to be able to buy Brushing Reducer for Enamel Automotive Paint but have not seen it since the late 60's
     
  26. dutchrod
    Joined: Feb 5, 2009
    Posts: 496

    dutchrod
    Member

    I painted my coupster with paint from : https://www.craftmasterpaints.co.uk
    I only used a good brush and no polishing afterwards just light sanding between layers of paint, I used two layers on most panels.
    The trick with this paint is that you have paint a pretty thick layer and it wil flow real nice and no brush marks.
    Very happy with the result.

    IMG_5136.jpeg IMG_6639.JPG
     
  27. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 8,129

    A Boner
    Member

    Like Flynbrian said above…the Rustoleum paint lays down nice for spray painting shop equipment, etc. To me that sounds like the perfect paint to use for a down and dirty old looking, low buck Hot Rod! Only, I’d skip the catalyst for health reasons, and also because the “fading” part sounds like something an old Hot Rod should do. I’m willing to bet that the Rustoleum paint of today is probably as good as most premium paints were back in the 50’s!

    Buy a purple Harbor Freight gun and a can of gloss black Rustoleum…and I would also suggest you buy a can of their brownish colored Rusty Metal Primer…not the bright orangish colored primer…
    Then let it rip!
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2022
  28. No way in hell I'd use a brush or roller! After all, I've got a kidney I can sell to finance:

    Air Compressor (because I can't get along in my other endeavors with one)
    Air Dryer
    GOOD regulator
    Hoses
    GOOD quick disconnects
    Portable carport and plenty of plastic to create a paint booth (I don't want to paint outside and have it not look professional because of bugs, leaves, etc.)
    Quality respirator
    Filters and fans to clear the air
    $100 per gallon paint to practice with (or should I just jump in without practice?)
    $600 per gallon paint
    Solvents for cleanup
    Masking tape and supplies
    Probably a lot more stuff I'm overlooking.
    Spend a lot of time, effort and frustration developing skills I probably won't use in the future.
    Besides, I like spending money on shit I'll never use again! Screw the mortgage payment.... full speed ahead!

    The bottom line is: if the OP has chosen this method to paint his ride for whatever reason (besides the fact that it IS traditional), help him if you can. If you want to criticize, tell someone else, don't beat him up here.
     
  29. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,722

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    Awwww the people of the HAMB.....

    "Hey, man, how do I make good chocolate chip cookies?"

    "I've had good luck with using real butter..."

    "Definitely splurge on better chocolate chips, I like Ghirardelli..."

    Then there's the other guys.... :D

    "You don't want chocolate chip cookies, only a hack makes those! You should invest in a brownie pan and make brownies."
     
  30. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 6,969

    BamaMav
    Member Emeritus
    from Berry, AL

    If you don't have a compressor, one of the newer airless guns works almost as well. I painted a boat several years ago with one, and it looked like I did it with a air gun. It was several years old, I think the newest ones are even better now. To me it would be better than using a brush or roller.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.

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