I’m on my second flathead block 59a and both is cracked but I did not pay much for them more than gas and own time. I also gt me a Merc crank and a set of good std rods and a oilpan for decent money. The latest block I found got miss the main caps but has only one crack from a mid exhaust to cylinder. I’m not really pleased to run as it is or pinn it or weld it. As I run a machine shop I can sleeve it myself and install a set main caps and linebore it. I was thinking of the best way to find a solution and here is one idea. -Instead to do a valvejob and get valves, guides, keepers, retainers, springs and hard to find quality lifters and heads ( new or old expensive heads ) I can ’save’ those money and instead get a kit of new Ardun heads. I asked H&H and they sell it at 16K. As I did not pay much for the cracked block ( vs get a complete decent 59a object ) and not need get the std FH parts I can say I can get the Ardun upgrade at less than half the price ( 16K ) Maybe not all like the Arduns or if there is a ’cool factor’ to has them on. My car is to be a full ’Henry’, but this is new made parts, but Arduns was never Henry anyway so I might can live with it. Are my ideas Ok or is I’m overseen something ? Idea is install a sleeve and just hone the cylinders ( std bore ) and use std bore forged pistons. If supercharged or not is another thread.
Buying the Ardun Heads will be the easy part, lots of work to complete the installation, that is better left to the people that have done it before.
Shore experiance is never to beat but mention one thing people miss doing it. I has not FH experiance but work on engines full time since ’85.
You have more general experience than the average guy, but I, personally, would research this nine ways from Sunday before I dropped $16K on cylinder heads that are not just bolt on-especially using a less than ideal block. Not to mention that you can get a 490+HP 383 from Summit for under $8K
I think it sounds like a good idea . The Ardun kits really make a cool looking, and powerful engine,,,,,,and you guys in Sweden have some really nice hot rods ! I say go for it,,,,,,I’m sure you can make a success of it . Tommy
I need info on whats the issue ( hard part of operation ) is to get this to work. -Normally I hate old blocks and cracked. And yes in this car a crate SBC is totally out of the picture. Yes a cracked block is not ideal but when use a sleeve and a gasket around cylinder diameter I cant see a big issue. Several told me one of ten blocks is Ok. So no easy way here 2022. And shore, I can get a working engines as a runner and object at around 3K but say block is Ok and that is great but will the sleeve not heal the block I has ? I would not use it by repair in a std FH version as chance the pinn or weld would be uncertain. So this cost me nothing and the money on a block/engine can be invested in new Arduns ( plus the money on FH valvetrain/heads ) Its not certsin even if I gind a runner its not cracked. A company here in Sweden told me very few blocks today they get in shop is Ok after cleaning and magnaflux and pressusre testing. I saw a block this week a buddy had his block welded and after machine ( bore ) it cracked up again. I ask since it might be some info needed for get the Arduns to get it to work. Some might done it.
Had an opportunity back in 2008 to buy a pair of crated Ardun heads for 2500,00 in Bayshore , long Island from Marty Himes, i thought that was crazy expensive then...
I could see that, but this is a bored=over Chevy. And just and example. There are many good and powerful crate motors to choose from. Clearly, the OP has an idea of what he wants. More power to you, sir.
Yes, its allot of money 16K and even if this cars now is not cheap its hard to get back that money, but as in your case the 2.5K was a good investment now 2022. -Care sell them, if so PM me. But who knows when all this will fall. World today change fast so in 5-10 years it would all be worth nothing.
I disovered years ago that is none of my frigging business what another guys hot rod budget is unless I am the one who is getting paid to build his hot rod. That will never happen in my life time as I can barely keep up with my own projects. Still when you spend that much money for a set of heads or find a set of original Ardon heads that may or may not cost that much is it wise to use a suspect block? Do said cracks allow for coolant to end up in the crankcase? Meaning is there a possibility. As for spending that amount of money on the heads, for me it has to be the OMG I absolutly have to have those to build my perfect hot rod the way I want it and not spending 20K just because you can't find a solid block.
I don't know if I believe the 1 in 10 numbers. My experience is about 50/50. I understand that it might be different in your country. And that is still not a very good chance. What about sourcing a French block? Being in Europe that seems like it would be easier than a regular ford block.
I agree with Hitchhiker. Find a better block.In Sweden it might be difficult. The French military"cargo" engines are same as the 59A and turn up here.
Yes, as I said I breath the idea. I has a bought blocks from USA many times in the past and actually right now I has a brand new 426 Hemi block to my NHRA -70 Cuda, and that block home is near 8K but a custom made unit. I first bought a Bulldog block and it was custom made aswell but I saw a welding repair on side so I sold it and bought this instead. It was a long process and before I used a MP block, but this new one has 3/4” thick cylinder walls and the MP had stock. Issue now is freight and money rate. 1/10 rate is coming from the Sweden company I asked and a US company ( after I was on the second block bought on pallets empty and saw they made a movie on youtube on cracked FH blocks ) Shore, again better get a good block. But I has ask around on a 59a ( don't like a French one ) and had no luck, but right now I can get a block/engine that is told be a ’runner’ but around 3-4K and I has no use of the extra parts. It's no garantee it might had a issue after inspection ( then what ) ? The US company told me 1/10 chance and mean one can get lucky on first block or bought 10 before a good one come. -I did call H&H and asked them. I said I was on second block and how about a sleeve and grind and chem up the crack in the port. They said they do that. As I heard crack between pinnbolts is common and there is a no issue on that ( gasket over ) and as no heat there now ( in the port ) so all it need do is avoid water get down there to oil. So in the big picture this is not all about ’money’ if this convert made this block to work, and if so - I ’save’ money so I don’t pay the 16K. It’s like a taste on a cool thing and try to make it happend.. ( if oil in water that is not ruin the heads - right ) If the convert is so tricky and the repair is a 'lost war' its better to send Don Ferguson or H&H a bankwire on a complete engine. But even if I dont like cracked blocks I do has fix some over the years and I cant see any mechanical things be impossible. -But I’m humble on others experiance ( thats why I ask )
Why don't you contact Ronnie Roadster here on the HAMB, or on The Ford Barn. Ronnie is very much involved with both flatheads and Ardun motors. Ronnie will give you good information as well as good work if needed.
I'm trying to follow this, but having trouble. Because your block is cracked, you want to go with Ardun heads to "fix" the issue? Is that the gist of your post? My advice would be decide the direction/vision of your build, come up with a plan and stick to it. Like others have mentioned, that $16K is just the beginning when building an Ardun. You'll have close to $25-30K in it before it's all said and done.
Hey @3w Hank . Its been interesting to follow along on this thread about what you want. As cool as Ardun heads are and as cool as Ford Flathead engines are as well, and your focus of not having anything other than "HENRY" parts for your car / build. Are you going for the look of the engine or the semi practical, functionality of the Ardun head set up ? I agree with Hitchhiker, keep searching for a good block, that would be money well spent first, in my opinion. I posted a few shots for you to consider, personally, I like the look of the Navarro heads over the Ardun set up. Your results may vary. " Money has no value, unless its spent " " Everything old, is new again "
The OP is in Sweden, the cost of Ardun heads didn't make him bat an eye. Pretty sure he has the time and money to do this
Fuck it, if you have your heart set on a set of Arduns do it. You only get one go 'round on this planet.
Ronnie Roadster, Pete1 and others are our resident Ardun experts. I think the Ardun "white papers" are floating around the internet. Senter may have written them in the '70's. I believe they are considered the Ardun "bible" to those who run in the Ardun circle. I can say that Ronnie has done extensive research and development with these heads and has some world records to prove it. What he's done is nothing short of impressive. https://www.ardun.com/history
Lets see what Ron says. If a block cracked can heal on a sleeve/chem in port and Arduns convert get it to live why not. If just a bad idea, wind it. Philisofic; One time I raced 383 in stock eliminator but started to build a Hemi just as I had the camcover and oilpan.. That was a dream but I bought a Super Bee 68 when I was 16, raced in stock at 20 so no money on a Hemi ( thats why 383 and Jerico ) Several engines and heads later ( and $$$ ) I’m still chase it and now goal is get into the 9.40’s. So the parts that was equal on 383 vs the 426 had not so much to do with anything what I did later on. Now 30 years later and 15 on Hemis.. But everything start with a idea. Some is crazy ideas. But as I see it, the Arduns is cool but not much cooler than a nice set of std heads. But for around 10K diff from std set-up I might do it. Its really not about the block or invest, shore I can find a non cracked block, but as I said this is a idea and if it heals it might be a good idea. On economy. I can do all machining. Lets say I has the block but it need 1 sleeve and hone on 7 cylinders. I has a grinded Merc 4” crank. I has a good set of std rods, and I’m shore they work on this HP. I has or will get a oil pan but he was at Bonneville ( now home ) I need a cam or can send a core I has to Elgin. Cometics gaskets. Bearings. Oilpump. Mahle pistons/rings. Shore more parts as intake, ignition, carbs etc but I need that to a std set-up to - right. Pretty shore a good engine cost plenty no matter of heads or my own time. Can I afford it, well just updated a new B-ville 29 roadster to a Henry 32 5W but when the 5W came up I could not say no. Guys, thanks on inputs and its a idea to ’save’ the block, crazy one - right. ;-)
Hank, Sounds like you've got some racing in your blood for sure. I'm really curious how you are coming up with $10K different between an Ardun conversion and a aluminum headed motor? I think one of your post said a set of Ardun for $8K. That's pretty cheap.
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