Hot Rods The "Whatever" project

My clutch cyl is where the old master cyl was. I didn't want them side by side so I pushed the brake master way back to under the seat. I have a 2 1/2 exhaust running in thar area too. I knew you had a plan and wasn't going to post a picture, but hoped you could get something from it.

 

Again thanks. I'm just about to get into the garage today and finish fitting up the bracketry (morning was spent w/a migraine!). Just got some tack welding to do, then set the initial length of the push rods.

 

I did it! And my feet fit on the pedals! From the top: 1st picture from the right side, pedals hooked up.
2nd picture, master cylinders and bracketry tacked into place. Once I get to final welding, I'll add a tube to give more support.
3rd picture, from the left, I need to bend the clutch pedal slightly to the left and add a dead pedal to the angled brace. And I get to fabricate a mounting bracket for the steering column, AGAIN! That current setup doesn't stay as it's fugly seeing as how it won't be holding the pedals and master cylinders.

 

Your picture was the inspiration I needed to figure that mess above out. Now maybe I'll get a round tuit and start on that T10.

 

Good Job Dave, but credit Marty as I got my inspiration from him!

 

Okay! Thanks Marty for the inspiration 2 step. We're both glad you posted pictures of your setup! I've got better pictures now. Did some editing so I'll post them w/o explanation.





So there's a better look at the pedals and master cylinders. It took some time and a community to get to this point. Now I can move on...

Framework, floor, steering column support, battery box, and so much more.

 

Looks like my alerts are broken again - nice to see some progress, even if I'm several days behind!

 

A day late and a dollar short! The story of my life...

 

Got the new steering column support fabricated. And the old pedal/steering column support out. No pictures today because of a migraine onset. Pictures tomorrow...

 

You are getting there. Work looks great. Trying to figure out how to put a coat of 2K over the Duplicolor primer surface etch with a roller. Cannot spray that stuff here.

 

I hope it works. I can't paint worth a wooden nickel, so when you figure out what the procedures are, you can teach me how to do it right. As it is I have to repaint the fenders on the trailer and it hasn't even been on the road yet! I did something wrong.

 

Just a couple of pictures of the new steering column support. Hopefully it's the last iteration... And it even uses the bolts that held the previous assembly in...

 

Study this picture. It's going to change. Measured the pedals for dimensions and in this configuration I have an effective ratio of just under 4:1. So it's a good thing I haven't welded the lower arm extensions on yet. So I have sketched out 2 new extensions and will be cutting them out tomorrow or Saturday. Oh well, doesn't matter. Only fall off again anyway...

 

Remember yesterday's episode and the picture above? Well, here's today's progress in pictures: Remade the extensions and ended up with 6:1 pedal ratios. Still not going to weld them on yet, just in case...
Here's the rest of the pictures of today's efforts:
2nd picture shows the new front mount for the rear suspension. Look closely and you can see the old hole in the frame rail above it.

The last picture shows the new mount for the roll bar support hoop to the frame rails. So nothing exciting, just little stuff that needs to be done...

 

Well, NOW we know what happened to your old "set-up blocks" from your sprint car days.... LOL! Wonder how many guys will know what I'm referring to, but I'm sure you do... LOL again!

 

Yes I know, but these aren't them. Just some 2x6 leftover from the shed made to hold up AND square the rear axle. Look closely at the front axle pictures and you'll find some tubing mitered and length matched for the same purpose.

Yeah old tricks die hard. I don't have scales anymore but still have a Decco (???) Weight Checker from Speedway from way back. We used grain scales back then, and had to do the math ourselves. And once scaled, check the 4 corners on level ground with the Decco, and record the numbers. It wasn't great, but at the track in a hurry it would get you close enough...

 

We started with the bathroom scales with the 4 to 1 arms, and graduated to the Longacres.

 

Dave(& Marty) : Glad I was able to tickle the "Way-back memory" button!! No harm intended, obviously! Besides I knew they weren't your old "race" blocks : WAY too clean!! (found a set of mine the other day : dirt & "quickie" lube in about equal parts... & wrapped in a rag in a toolbox I hadn't opened in YEARS!!)

 

Marty's wayback machine goes a little further back than mine, but yes you got the brain cells firing with your comment, both cells.

And I also recall before scales, we'd essentially guess. Put a socket on the floor jack, roll it under the qc, and lift the car until a tire, hopefully the right side, came off the ground. Continue lifting until the left side just clears the ground and measure how much higher the right side was off the ground. That was our wedge.

Did we know what the corner weights or cross weights were? Hell no! Could sort of determine cross percentage, from the spring compression and the spring rate.

Before coilovers, no idea... but in those days everyone was in the same boat, so it really didn't matter. Besides those rock hard M&H Racemasters just had no bite.

 

And a couple of guesses as to right side "stick-out", & using the "stagger-tape", but the real changes began when Jimmy Sill's "Open Wheel Set-up" book came out that realistically saved lives accross the Open Wheel world & really leveled the playing field, by providing a basically "neutral" set-up that gave you a chance to learn how to drive at least a little (or at least what a car should feel like!) before a "bad set-up" sent you on your head. After his book, you either read it or you didn't make it out of the "B" : everybody got better & the cars got a lot safer. At least that's what I saw at our local tracks!

 

Stagger! 6, 8 10 inches, then came drag slicks. And don't even look at another wheel, because they were so delicate.

And surely we both remember the left front not touching all around the corner. But it was the way...

 

New blade in the bandsaw and finished the project started Friday. And checked out rear suspension clearance at full bump. Both sides clear with an inch to spare at the Marty Strode Body Mount Method plates.

Made a pair of retainers for the rear suspension chassis mount brackets. Just need to do some welding tomorrow and I'll post a picture or two of the stuff.

Keeping busy. Little steps add up to a finished project in time...

 

Got a little bit done today. Pictures included.
Got the shock stand cut to length and figured out a fastening method. When finished there will be a half inch bolt in place of the small ones currently used to fabricate the system. Still a lot of finish welding to do.

Here's the roll bar support hoop mounts that replaced the 1st setup.

I found a place for the master cylinder reservoirs. They're close enough to the master cylinders and above them. Also it will be easy to get to them under the deck lid of the turtle deck.

And if there's a different engine potentially in the future for the Whatever project, the T5 needs to be able to fit. So next step is to fabricate some x-members, and the floor, so making sure there's clearance.

Enough for today. Lunch and then a nap. Hey I'm retired and didn't sleep well last night, so that is the plan.

 

Nice work Dave!

 

I had another decent day today in the garage. Pictures!
Made 2 diagonals from the bottom tube to the 2x3 rails one for each side. Next I'll move the k-member back to join at the diagonal which will also align the front crossmember with the vertical tubes. The upper crossmember either disappears completely or gets reworked to be removable, as it just clears a 16 inch fan on a small block Chevy with the short water pump, with about 1 inch of clearance. Eventually there will be a fan shroud but 1st I have to get a radiator in there. More on that in a little bit...

But first, I changed the forward fuel cell crossmember from 1x1 box tubing to a heavy wall 1x2 box tube. Which is heavy wall enough to be tapped for 1/4-28 bolts, to hold the remote reservoirs for the master cylinders. And there's plenty of room down the left side for the 3 hoses to get to the masters under the seat support. And they will be in a continuous down hill run, so no air pockets to mess up bleeding!

Now here's a problem to be solved. If I replace the sheet metal structure currently at the back of the nose with 1/2 inch square tubing like the piece on top of the nose, there's going to be enough room for a radiator with maximum dimensions of 4 inches thick x 17 inches wide x 20 inches tall. My problem is that I have to form the square tubing like the current setup. I don't have any dies for bending square tubing, so the only way I can think of to do it is to sand pack it and heat it to bend it into the shape of the inside of the nose. I'm open to suggestions and methods. Please!

I know I'm forgetting something else today, but it's going on supper time and I'm HANGRY! And I have to cook!

 

This all looks like real, honest-to-goodness progress!

 

Dave, here is a couple pics of my car radiator mounts. It is about the same size as yours. Maybe help mounting yours? Its pinched in at the bottom and just a 1/4 bolt at the top on each side. The band is for holding the nose on.

 

Here's another pic I found, it shows the upper mounts holes and the little tabs, if you look hard, that pinch it in at the bottom.

 

Thanks for the pictures. I like the headlight mounts as well. So your nose mount is flat stock. I'm going to have to rethink the setup for mine. I suppose having the nose and radiator both attached to the hoop will keep it all from shaking. Hmmm! I like it!

And today's progress is getting free material. Stopped at the local mechanic that takes care of my daily driver, and got a sheet of aluminum tread plate, FOR FREE! So next is to hang the larger of the 2 transmissions in the car and start on the floor supports.

And make some x-members at the same time. To the garage!

 

There are braces that run back to the firewall from just under the radiator mount bolts. The braces hold on the side covers and hood (which now does not fit). I don't think they do anything for support the nose or radiator.
I am fighting my floor now trying to get a gas pedal in. My car is all glass with wood glassed into the floor.