Projects 1930's style Race Car build

I've been asked several times about my choice of engines, the SBC that's in it now was the most practical choice during the build.
Now that it's completed, I've been doing some serious research on my preferred engine, the Jaguar XK6 inline 6 cylinder. The engine has been around for decades unfortunately the original version had issues with cracked blocks. In the 80's they redesigned the block and from 1985 to 1987 the engines were better but they did have head gasket issues. There aren't very many of these engines available, especially good running examples.
I recently found 2 engines on Ebay, one that's a fresh rebuild and the other's supposed to have 20,000 miles. The fresh rebuild is $14,500.00 plus freight and taxes, plus it needs all of the accessories and a transmission. The other engine is a later model with a transmission and it's $15,000.00.
There's no guarantee that either is actually any good, seeing and hearing them run is the only way to know if they're any good.

 

I'm going to blaspheme and speak heresy here, but have you considered one of the Japanese car inline 6 engines, like the Datsun/Nissan 240/260/280 Z engines, or the Toyota Supra (the old one) inline engine? Yes the Z engine is only a sohc engine, but parts are available, not too spendy, and can be buffed up nicely.

The early Supra had a dohc 12 valve engine, that should also be findable and parts should be available.

But now for the real oddball engine. Jeep had an inline sohc engine in 1963. Only 230 cid, it was called the Tornado. It was a crazy deal, with only 6 cam lobes, but it looks really interesting.

Okay I'll go back on my meds now...

 

As someone who came from imports, I recommend highly against the 1G or the 7M. Both are super trash engines. If he was going towards toyota, I would recommend the 4AGE. It's got a higher redline, and makes more power across the board.

If he was going datsun route, the L28et is a great engine which is a later model version of the L24 found in the 240z.

 

They also had nice side draft carbs, very similar to the classic old SU HS-6 carbs (although nothing is interchangeable).

 

Back in the day (15 years ago) when the HAMB used to allow a little bit of talk about Jag frontend swaps in pickups, guys would say they could buy a whole donor Jag for $1,000. Granted, the engine probably needed a rebuild, but wouldn't you rather manage that yourself than rely on someone else's work?

 

Hot Rods - Jaguar powered hot rods | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

There is a surprising number of XKE Jag Coupes and roadsters hereabouts with 350 Chev engines in them...
A former customer had one for sale, but the car (on accel) would change lanes, to the left.
Visual underneath inspection discovered an engine oil leak had swelled and melted the grommets at the rack and pinion mounting clamps. Rack would slide in the opposite direction of turning, customer didn't believe it until shown.
Seeing was believing...
As I recall, reasons for going SBC was in 3 cases Timing chain failure, and high quotes from Jag service dep't.
Chev to the rescue! LOL

 

Not HAMB friendly but since Toys were mentioned - what about BreakMyWindow 6s.. Pretty good reps

 

I forget, r u only talking overhead cam or any straight 6.. As French town can tell u, the Ford 300 6 can not be killed or the amc/Jeep 6 likewise unkillable.

 

Overhead cam(s) would be my first choice, the main thing would be exhaust on one side and intake on the other, both on the same side are kind of a unbalanced look. I want run the exhaust out the side of the hood and down the side of the car.
I've even considered the Pontiac inline 6 with the overhead cam, they're probably kind of rare.
My 1968 Chevy C10 had a 250 6 that was in good condition, I replaced it with a 350 and sold it, I might have used it if I still had it.
The oddest choice would be a Mopar slant 6, I've come across a couple still in a vehicle and running good.

 

What engine is this?

 

Technical - Is an OHC Pontiac straight 6 worth messing with? | The H.A.M.B. (jalopyjournal.com)

 

this one seemed reasonable asking $900, sold for $500 in Feb 2019
Complete 1968 OHC 6 sprint with trans - Pontiac Overhead Cam SIX Forum (tapatalk.com)

Selling for a friend. He is super private and not really internet friendly.
Complete 1968 OHC Sprint engine with auto trans. Not sure if engine status. Has been outside but covered. Complete with carb and power steering. I can answer any questions I can. Located in so cal. 91701. 900$$
Email me directly at Dsieber323@gmail.com


Pontiac Overhead Cam SIX Forum - This board is for the Pontiac OverHead Cam engine built from '66 to '69, installed in the Firebirds, Tempests, and Lemans. Sprin (tapatalk.com)

 

Its a Ford truck 300 with a special head. I'm hiding the ugly valve cover with a pseudo DOHC cover, looking for that old Duesenberg vintage look.

 

You might want tocheck this out.

Inliners International |

 

To bad I am on another planet to you. I have several XK and XKE engines. All are cores but are rebuildable. I need one but not six of them! They are 4.2's.

 

I made a couple of changes to my toy, found a good deal on tires and wheels, plus some bomber style seats.

 

Man do I have an engine for you, nice build on the car very nice work.

 

^^^^ What big 6 is that?? Plexiglass cam covers?

 

The car is amazing. What tire did you go with there ?

 

Worked for me

Ford 300 truck w/ a one-off head.

 

Very nice looking

 

300 ford 6

 

I recently purchased two Jaguar engines and a 4 speed with overdrive.
I test started one of the engines yesterday, an older rebuilt 4.2, it runs great. It's a 1973 with emissions intake and carbs, that sucks. But it does have 8:1 pistons vs 7:1. A decent replacement intake and carbs is only $5,000, holy crap.
The second engine is a 1959 3.8 that has all new internals, but there's some minor rust in 3 cylinders. It's never even had oil in it, much less started. I'm removing the head today, hopefully the cylinders can be cleaned up. The 4 speed was bolted to the 3.8 engine and it also has all new internals. It also had minor rust on the gears and one bearing. It's never even had oil in it. It took over 12 hours to remove the surface rust off of the gears. I'm afraid the engine internals will be the same, lots of surface rust.

 

The transmission is back together and ready for the next step. I tested the 1973 4.2 again, it ran smooth until just after hitting 180, then it started running ruff but no smoke. The oil was chocolate milk. It's not worth rebuilding, it's a head gasket, cracked head or block.
The 1959 3.8 is actually a 1954-1957 block with a B type head and SU carburetors. It has been completely disassembled and checked, there were some issues. Mud dauber nest were everywhere, and there had been a few assembly errors. It's been reassembled and tested on a stand.
It's time to remove the SBC and T5. Installing the 3.8 and 4 speed transmission is possible, but it will require several modifications.

 

Get in touch with me if you want. I would be glad to help. OR you could ask me to stop helping! either way. let me know.

 

I've got a cylinder with no compression. It's a straight 6 and 5 of the cylinders have around 150. I did a basic liquid test on the valves and the did not leak, so I assume the rings did seat. There are currently no rings available for the engine.
The engine was assembled when I purchased it. It had new pistons and had been bored .030 over. The block was full of mud dobber nest so I completely disassembled it. The blocked was cleaned with a degreaser and then washed with dishwashing soap 3 times. Then each cylinder got few quick passes with a ball hone. Each cylinder got wiped down with carb cleaner then washed with soap twice then wiped down with oil.
With no rings available I'm not sure what to do with it. It looks like I'll be putting the SBC back in.

 

Post the dimensions of each of the rings:
bore diameter
thickness
ring width (depth}
ring groove depth on the piston

I gotta believe rings can be obtaied from somewhere. With the ring info posted us readers can do a search.

It would be a shame to abandon that engine for a SBC just for the lack of a ring.

 

Try this; put your dimension in the search here:

Hastings Catalog (apacatalog.com)

Bore In

Bore mm

Top Groove

2nd Groove

1st Oil Groove



Hastings Manufacturing Company
325 N. Hanover St.
Hastings, MI 49058 USA



+1 269 945 2491
+1 269 945 4667 (fax)

info@hastingsmfg.com

+1 800 776 1088

 

Ring Gap might be your issue as well
From Hastings website:

CHECKING COMPRESSION RING GAPS
Ring gaps are often a confusing and misunderstood part of a re-ring job. There are MINIMUM and MAXIMUM ring gap specifications,which must be observed for the best performance of a new ring set.

Minimum gap tolerances must be observed in order to prevent the ring ends from butting together as the ring expands when the engine approaches operating temperature. Hastings recommends a MINIMUM of .0035 gap per inch of cylinder diameter. Example: 4″ (bore) x .0035 = .0 14 minimum gap.

Maximum ring gap is an important part of ring performance in that too much gap results in lost compression, power loss, and ultimately poor oil control. The following chart indicates the specifications for compression ring gap as outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) as standards for the automotive piston ring manufacturers.

Safe, Recommended Automotive Compression Ring Gap Clearances
Ring Diameter End Clearance Inspection Limit
1 2.3624 0.006 0.014
2.3625 2.9524 0.008 0.016
2.9525 3.5424 0.01 0.02
3.5425 4.3299 0.012 0.022
4.33 5.1174 0.014 0.026
5.1175 5.9049 0.016 0.03
5.905 6.8899 0.02 0.035
6.89 8.9999 0.024 0.041
9 10.9999 0.029 0.047
An important fact to remember is that the manufacturers rigidly adhere to these tolerances and that the ring gaps are inspected in gauges accurate to .0001″ at the cylinder diameter the ring is manufactured for. Any increase in the diameter of the cylinder is being used in, over the designated size, results in an increase of approximately .003″ in ring gap for each .001″ increase in cylinder diameter.

In order to check ring gap, the rings should be placed at the lowest possible part of the cylinder (below ring travel area) as this is the portion of the cylinder that is unworn and which the ring is sized for. Checking ring gap in the worn portion of the cylinder will show a gap increase in direct relation to the amount of cylinder wear present. The illustration below shows the effect of cylinder wear on ring gap.

This graphically illustrates the effect on ring gap that cylinder wear has. You will notice that the tapered cylinder has .012 wear at the top portion of ring travel, which increases the ring gap .036. Therefore, it is entirely possible for the ring to have .061 end gap in that portion of the cylinder and be within recommended manufacturing tolerance.

For this reason, Hastings recommends a MAXIMUM of .003″ wear per inch of cylinder diameter, not to exceed .012″ in any case for successful reringing. If a cylinder is worn in excess of this it should be rebored and the proper oversize ring installed. Checking ring gaps can give an approximation of cylinder wear as well as keep you from installing wrong sized rings for the application being rerung.

The Diagram below shows effect of .012 cylinder taper on ring gap in four-inch bore.