I'm a firm believer in the Zips risers and have used them on 4 sbc engines, the real advantage of the Zips riser is that it centers the water pump in the middle of the radiator by moving the water pump up 5 inches allowing for the us of a large diameter fan. HRP
some pictures....the belts measure from 0.405 to 0.415 wide with a caliper. I have another, new, off brand 7000 series belt that measures just under 0.400 My guess is that it'll work with the belt up like that. What brand belt is it? and what does it measure at the top width? GM pulleys: Aftermarket pulley: GM pulley:
I'll be damned, those sit perfect in that groove. My belt measures .41"...guess I'll just have to try it. 3/8" or 11/32" doesn't seem to exist in an automotive belt. Thanks for sending the photos!
Again Op Nice build ""But"" Is this a quiz test ? Belt , & If me maybe over thinking it (vibration) I would prefer to have 2 bolts Horse shoeing 1st & 2nd holes on intake & the 1 on pump ,& maybe a gusset, By the pics posted , it looks that Alt pulley needs to be moved back or Alt .125 thou or so , looks not tracking in line with water pump pulley, Then waiting to see how you install the mechanical fan that will keep it cool with out the Zipp style riser while using a stock length hood. If Your engine in typical location on 32 with Sbc
To me this mount seems to lack some rigidity. One simple way to increase its rigidity would be to run a brace from the alternator mounting bolt to the drivers side top water pump bolt. Or if you wanted to make it more unobtrusive you could weld it to the mounting bracket where the horizontal and vertical legs meet. For the lack of belt wrap around I can suggest something from racing stock cars 50 years ago. We ran no charging system. The belt we used fit around the crank and water pump pulleys. It had to be installed with a screwdriver and bumping the engine over with the coil wire pulled. I was told the belt was from a Corvette. (All you would need to do is trade in your new pulleys for a set of two groove pulleys. )
Thanks on both suggestions - So-Cal speed sold these and put them on cars for years, I'll see if I have a problem, then brace and double row pulley if necessary.
the only problem with having the alternator that high, is that the fan pulley has very little belt wrap, and will likely slip a lot....
I see that your motor is not on typical late 60s GM mounts , with GM mounts the threw bolt is pretty much level with top of frame , A fan (14 plus) will not clear bottom radiator hose or front cross member with stock style / walker Radator in stock location with out a Zipp , by pic looks (6 blade fan) like yr hose off lower Rad will need 45-90 Deg down then towards frame to clear fan , your engine looks to set back afew more inches then normal for a stock hood set up , The Higher the engine & father back eat up a lot of room inside ( R , 5w ,T) with Flat style fire wall especially if you're a tall guy, Like Jim said about belt , ^^^^^^^^Belt contact, maybe No problem if yr engine not real snappy on RPMs A Monza set up , alt would set lower , & you could of drilled & tapped head for that one bolt , or fab a little bracket ,,, there is a lot of products sold that do not work to full potential
^^^^^ On 1 32 worked on ,Original Flat head Rad was used on a sbc , was very tight Motor low & forward with a Zipp, so I made caps that could be removed later or ever switched Back to FH or another Ford motor or what ever , You can used Tight radius donuts ( mild ,SS, Aluminum) I also had some old big tight 90deg cooper , I took cut the 90 in to 45s switch around & soldered back together , ended up with a tight long S solder to outlet on Rad to clear fan. ( later could be removed)
Went ahead and sailed for the Zips riser - solves a lot of problems, but created others. I don't have holes in my valve covers - the breather is the only way to get oil in...Anyone have a suggestion?
...and what's this business about running a hose from the 6 cyl. water pump to the head between 6 & 8? I have 462 heads and don't have any holes.
I would modify the filler tube so it angles the other way, take a pie cut out and weld it or find a pc of curved tubing to weld on the the base....
You mean like this... ? I first cut an inch off the top of the tube, that didn't work. I then pie cut it and there's clearance but not much room for belt adjustment. Not optimal, but functional. I hope the tube is long enough to not belch oil. Think I should angle it more? The more it's angled, the harder it is to smack it into the intake.
you could run the heater hose fitting to the pump, from the intake near the front, there are some unused plugs there....either way, it gets hot water from the engine.
Sorry, I'm lost on this subject. I just know that on a SBC, I always use Edelbrock pumps and put a pipe plug in the top where the heater hose would go
The small bock engine has a hole under one of the pump mounting holes, this is the byp*** that lets water circulate through the engine when the thermostat is closed. If this hole is blocked off by the riser, then you probably need to connect a heater hose to the pump and head/intake, to provide the byp*** function. There may be a byp*** built into the 6 cylinder pump that you are installing. I dont know
Wow, you learn something every day. I gotta get to the bottom of this and try to understand what's going on.
Here's how I handled the by-p*** on mine. Channeled car could only use a 13" fan. Home made 1" riser, centered a 15" fan. For the by-p*** I drilled and tapped the heater hose outlet to 3/8" pipe thread. One day when I feel an extra bit of patience I'll get rid of the hose and bend a tube to fit.
I have ran the Zipp multiple ways, I have piped plug heater hose end , I have also run the heater hose from pump back to top of p***enger side port on intake in pic , with preformed hose .witch would be the way if not running heater ,
I picked up the recommended Autozone water pump - what a total piece of junk, looks like someone in a cave whittled it out of a block of aluminum with a rasp. No way a hose will seal on the byp*** outlet. For that reason, I’m going to buy the more expensive FlowKooler pump. They offer various heights, 3 7/8”, 3 1/8”, 3 11/16”, etc.. Clockwise rotation? Which one do I want?
Here's the pump from AutoZone... Poot quality, the disc on the impeller is all bent up too. In addition to quality issues, it's 3 7/8" and seems too long for the Zip riser alternator mount. You can't tell from my photo, but the crank and alternator pulleys line up square with a straight edge - with this pump and Zip riser, the water pump pulley seemingly sticks too far out. What's your experience with this situation?
Photo above looks like belt groove on water pump is not far enough out to align with alternator belt groove. Starting with the crank pulley belt groove, alternator and water pump belt grooves must align so belt works properly.
You can try a different pump....also, you can press/pull the pulley hub a bit on the shaft to adjust it. But not much.
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