Technical Adapting 38 Ford truck frame to 32 roadster body

Hi:
I have a cabless 38 truck frame fully running. Has the flathead and all running gear. In fact, it’s driveable.

I wonder if its possible to modify the frame where it looks decent on a 30’s highboy body. I pulled drawings from the net and saw the dimensions of the 38 frame arr about a few incles clise to a 32 roadster body. Also, the wheelbase on the 38 is around 112” while the model A is 106”.
Since I have an existing title 1938 running frame, what issues will I encounter with the modification of a 38 frame to fit a 32 body?

 

Where you located at? (Before I go on )

 

Ok. I’ve seen 34-40 frame under a model A. Old round track beater. Looks awful but was functional for a round track jalopy.
As far as $$$$$$
It’s probably more economical to locate a body from 35-40/41( for trucks I think)
Trucks being the cheaper of those years. Coups in those years are pricey

 

32 on bottom.

 

A large part of a 32s appeal and a major reason for its popularity is it’s chassis.
Probably the sexiest chassis ever to be used under a US made ride.
The axles and drive train from your 38 can be used on a 32 chassis.

 

Exactly. I pulled the drawings off of the net to determine the comparison.

 

Tampa

 

If you love to weld, here ya go

don’t shoot the messenger.

 

I assume Tampa? Dang, I was gonna get you started with a ‘’36 cab and fenders if near by.
I think (if I were in your position) I’d be on the hunt for a 35-41 Cab, etc. car bodies can get pricy, but then again I’ve no idea if you want an inexpensive build or a have fun build, etc.

I think just about all conventional truck cabs/hoods, grille shells are the same for pu’s v 1-1.5 ton trucks. Only difference is the fenders

i/e you can get a ‘38 1.5 ton cab, hood, grille and put it on your frame. You’d want 1/2? Tin fenders for the smaller wheel openings, although the 1.5 tons will work, but look off for a “pickup “ style flatbed.

 

Why? Sell the truck frame and title and build an actual 32 frame

 

Here’s a roller.
Looks nice in the pic


41 chassis might not work but the engine and trans will

 

In the interests of correctness, a 1932 model 18 is 106"
A Model A is 103 1/2" (Although often 104 is used when fabricating.)

Something to consider: with a lot of time and effort, you make almost anything fit almost anything. But you're getting into the face only a mother could love territory.

Like the committee that had the job of designing a horse and ended up with a camel.

 

Looks fairly close. The frame will need amending but I think it can be done.

 

It CAN be done. It will require a TON of work. It will look like SH*T.

 

The two defining parts on a 32 are the grille shell and the frame rail. Using a 38 frame because you have it isn't a good enough reason. However, if your plan is to channel it, then nobody sees the frame rail. OK I guess. Or if you just don't like the 32 frame rail reveal and want a smoothy, OK I guess.

 

Sometimes I wonder if people would think these things through. My frame is already titled and ready to go. Getting a frame, building it, and then trying to get it registered is a PITA. I know someone with a 30/32 who can't get his vehicle on the road because of such an issue. My frame is already bought and paid for. It has all the necessary components for the build. I'll take my chances at having the frame amended, and I believe it can be done in a sanitary fashion.

 

Me too.

 

So what will the state of Florida call this thing?

 

I've built several Model A roadsters on 32 frames and at least for me, it's the easiest car to build. 32 frame rails are reproduced and are reasonably priced and easy to find. The roadster body is fairly simple with no roll up windows to deal with or air conditioning to set up and usually minimum of accessories to wire. Also the model A roadster bodies are reproduced in steel and are comparably cheap if you can't find an original one to build. All this said, if you're going to go to the trouble to build ANYTHING, You may as well invest the time and some cash and build something that you can be proud of and if you ever decide you want to sell it, you'll have something someone would want.
Option 1. Buy some 32 rails and build a frame yourself if you have the skills, patience and a place to build it.
if you have access to a frame jig, that's the way to go. If not, install the 32 spreader bars to establish the basic rail locations to each other and then measure carefully everything you can to know they are located parallel to each other and are square. weld in a front crossmember using either a used model A or 32 crossmember or buy a new one making sure that the one you buy is wide enough to go all the way to the outside rails and not just to the boxing plate that you won't have installed yet. Also make a rear crossmember out of 1/4" wall 2" x 2" square tubing. You'll want to have someone give you the measurement's for where to locate both the front and rear crossmembers to know where to put them. After having both front and rear crossmembers welded in place, you can then box the frame rails from the front crossmember to just past the rear crossmember and then you can fabricate the middle crossmember or find a 33 to 48 ford X member and use that instead.

Option 2. Buy a parameter 32 frame. It should come boxed with all three crossmembers welded in place and you'll need to get one set up for the motor and transmission that you want, rear suspension (Coil overs, transverse spring or "other") steering box (usually vega or if you are adding fenders, you "might" want to go with an aftermarket front suspension version of the old mustang II/Pinto). You may also want to have the front upper shock mounts welded on so you can use the for headlight mounts too.

If you are comfortable keeping that old flathead on the road and don't expect a lot of 1000 mile trips, you may want to use the motor and rear end. You won't want to use the old transmission with it.. (ask me how I know) If you end up using your old closed driveline, there is a kit to make it an open rear end)

Personally, I would use the flathead, a 5 speed T5 from a S10 and an 8.8 ford rear unless I could find a 5 lug 8" rear end from a maverick.

Good luck!

 

All I got.

 

I think on a channeled car, and with the front frame rails tapered and reshaped a bit it will work. I think an easier solution would be to use 2 repop frame rails. Trim your crossmembers and x to fit. Using those x members and rear crossmembers in 32 to 34 frames is kinda common around here. Lets face it inless that 38 frame is titled as a 28 29 30 31 0r 32 that paperwork not gonna work so well.
Or an even easier option is to buy a roadster body on a frame with paperwork. Not too rare to find. Then use that complete running gear in the A frame. Thats very easy to make look awesome

 

DO YOU GUYS REMEMBER THE IDIOT WHY WIDENED A MERCURY TO FIT A MODERN CAPRICE FRAME? I GOT SO MUCH SHIT, CAUSE I SPOKE THE TRUTH....IT LOOKED LIKE SHIT!!!
I COMPLIMENTED HIM ON ACTUALLY MAKING "A SQUARE PEG FIT A ROUND HOLE"! HAHAHA
IT LOOKED SO FUCKING BAD. REMINDED ME OF ALL THE DUMBASSES WHO BUILD A RATROD ON A S10 FRAME, AND ARE SO PROUD OF IT....

 

ONE OF MY FRIENDS WANTED TO PUT A 32 3W BODY ON A 34 FRAME. I TOLD HIM IT WAS A MISTAKE, AND WOULDN'T LOOK RIGHT. HE SOLD IT AND GOT A 32 FRAME. HE COULD HAVE GONE EITHER WAY....BUYING A 33-34 BODY OR A 32 FRAME, AND STILL HAD A GREAT PROJECT.

 

A week or so back Joey Ukrop posted "Return of a Mechanix Special", look it up, if that was my frame that's what I'd do.

 

Adam401, when you use a later 30's rear crossmember are you pie cutting it to make it flatter? The trouble with them is they drop too far making the car sit too high in back for me. If you're flattening them that would be a good option on a car with a transverse spring in the back. Either way you can make a rear crossmember pretty easy too.

The last one of those I built I thought I had the rear crossmember just where I needed it and welded it up good and solid. Unfortunately due to spring bind and some other issues, I had to cut it loose and reweld it several times. Next time I wouldn't weld it solid until everything else is set and working just right.

 

NO.

 

Yup pie cut flat. If I remember right its an 1-5/8" on top to nothing on the bottom right triangle at either bend to make it flat for 38 39 40. i used to have it written on the wall haha. The height of the x needs to be sectioned to meet the frame rails on the A frame. Same with a 33 34. I had one mocked into my current 34 but ended up going a different route.

 

If you were doing a truck with custom box and such you could likely pull it off. If you start messing with a 32 ford body you can expect some pretty harsh critics. With what you will have invested, in any kind of 32 body, you might as well build it right. Good luck.

 

Have you thought about using the front few feet and front crossmember from a Model A frame? Maybe even channel the roadster body all the way or part way over your old frame and use the Model A out front? I've used model A front rails on a 32 frame missing the front from the cowl out and it looked pretty good.

 

I think he should do it. Mr. OP, please show us the result when you are done. Also tell us what the local DMV thinks of the '38 truck you are trying to register.