Hello, I am having an impossible Time locating a 1/2x 20 hole head banjo bolt. I am replacing the rear brake line in a 56 chevy truck the fitting that came off the master cylinder has a port for the front lines and rear brake line came out of the hollow head banjo bolt. I had to heat it up in order to get the old brake fitting out. Maybe too much heat as I can not get new fittings to thread in to it. I guess I can just add a Tee but I would like to find the bolt. I have not been able to locate it on any website Anyone know where I could find one? Thank you Scott
Tell us where you have been looking, probably not at your local NAPA, Pep Boys, etc. This should be a generic banjo fitting that most "specialty" suppliers stock and not for a specific application.
Seems like i remember robbing one off an old jeep to replace one on a 55 chevy truck i had 20 years ago. Summit has these. Doesnt say the thread is 1/2 20 but it sure looks the same. for 8 Bucks its worth the risk. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/omx-1672108#overview
The pipe threaded end may be the issue, most of the ones I see are metric, you may have to have your local machinist drill and tap a new generic banjo bolt with the NPT thread. You might try this supplier. https://www.brakeconnect.com/
Ya know Scott, I'd remember that welding is your friend, and your friend can make stuff when things can't be found, and that others can't supply you with. I'm sure you have options, but don't rule out a repair, a rebuild or making a new one. Silver brazing...don't underestimate it.
Local hydraulic (heavy equipment) service store. I was just on McMaster-Carr and saw some the other day. Those might be aluminum, though. In theory, I like the idea of banjo fittings but I wonder if they are easy enough to bleed all the air bubbles out of the corners of the fittings. (?)
looks like the threads are bunged up in there....should be threaded to accept a 1/4" tubing nut, eh? 7/16" -24 thread? do you have a thread chaser? or a bottoming tap?
Bottom tap OR disc chop an SAE tap above the tapered intro. Instant bottom tap. Craftsman dealer sells taps individually.
if you google the GM part number, you'll find a few other threads on different forums where folks are searching for this bolt. 3696542 bolt
It is pretty fouled up inside, maybe why it was so hard to get apart. I don’t have a thread chaser or tap. I will look into them. Thank you
It’s what was on it when I removed it from the master cylinder. Probably a “fix” someone did long ago. Thanks for the reply. Just another issue to frustrate me.
I’d think the threads on the end were for a brake light switch but I’m pretty sure these had a mechanical switch that contacted the brake pedal.
yup. There were three different brake line setups on those trucks, one of them used the banjo bolt with an inverted flare fitting screwed into it. this is the assembly manual for the truck, from another forum where someone was searching for it. btw my 59 long bed has the single flared line screwed into the master cylinder, no banjo bolt.
If you're unable to repair or replace that bolt, you may consider welding something like a 7/16" - 24 IFF to 1/8" NPT Male fitting to the end and get it usable. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earl...-1-8-Inch-NPT-Male-to-7-16-24-IFF,390752.html
"For want of a bolt the brakes were lost, for want of the brakes the truck was lost; For want of the truck the cannon was lost, for want of the cannon the battle was lost." Yes, weld something up, please.
@Scott71 You've been around the HAMB a couple years now, why not fill out your profile so we know where you live. You could be right down the street from another member who can fix that fitting up for you.
Also, double check the fitting on your new line, there are standard thread /standard flare, bubble flare/ metric thread and the one that screws people up when the stock boys put them in the wrong rack are the standard flare/metric thread. they look just like the standard line but metric. You should be able to clean that old fitting with a thread chaser and some cutting oil. Chasing the threads dry can cause some problems, a little lube never hurts. Larry
The block or the bolt should have inverted flares. The bolt with the hole in the end goes with the block with one line to it, the bolt with no threaded end has a block with two holes for two lines. Chevy trucks from 47 to 59 had the switch on the outside of the foot board with the lever actuated by the brake pedal. Chevy never used a pressure switch in any year that I know of.
Looks A LOT like the banjo bolt at the master cylinder on a 1948 Ford https://www.macsautoparts.com/maste...CZ4H4GulwvOlTNtn6kObh5AsY3HGBwC8aAkwdEALw_wcB
Ya know Mike, the welding process isn't just for repairing fenders, boxing frames or welding trailer hitches. They actually use that shit everywhere to build stuff, repair things...solve problems joining two things together.
Maybe I didn’t pay close enough attention. I will check all those possibilities. I think the bolt has an inverted flare. I am not familiar with them so I need to look a bit closer at it. Thanks for the info
Standard ends are considered inverted flare. the style that has been used forever. The last twenty plus years they came out with metric bubble flare. but before that a lot of import cars came with an inverted flare but had metric threaded nuts. It is easy to get them mixed up. I work parttime at my buddies Napa store on Sundays and between the stock boys and customers the line racks are always a mess. Larry
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