Hot Rods 8ba flathead constant "ticking" new build

Looking for some opinions on tick in flathead. This is my new build, just finishing and have had on the road for about a month. The motor is a fresh build, runs good, pulls good, good oil pressure. Recently a good constant tick has developed, initially we were thinking it may just be an exhaust leak, so I pulled the headers and the exhaust and discovered some blow by, so I put in new gaskets, permatrex on both sides reinstall, same deal.
Another guy thought maybe a valve, though I haven't pulled the intake yet. It doesn't miss and it doesn't run sluggish.
Someone also suggested that perhaps the different cooling rates of the block and the stainless steel headers may be causing the expansion to cause a leak but I don't know. I do know that the one flange has a pretty good warp on the header. So we are contemplating putting on the set of Fenton cast headers and redoing the exhaust and see what it does before we pull the intake and have a look.
I have read other threads on here with similiar ticking but the posters videos are no longer active and never really got to the results.

So have a listen and post up your opinions.

Cheers

Deans 30 coupe by hooliganshotrods posted Sep 29, 2022 at 3:03 PM

 

Pull the plugs and make sure the electrodes aren't getting smushed.

 

No link I could find...
1st thought...
Take the belts off, crank it up and run it for a moment to rule out pumps, generator and the fan.
It could be the fuel pump...
It could be something off the wall like a flywheel bolt/clutch...
It could be a lot of stuff.
It's best to eliminate these possibilities before pulling the intake.

 

It’s not letting me into the Video but your story sounds like mine.
My 8BA seems to like to tick and clack away. I have checked and set the valves after initial break in and at 800 miles and nothing is moving all set to .016”. but driving and idling it’s very ticky.
Same situation as mine engine runs and pulls great, good oil pressure 50psi at 2000RPM. I have done compression checks and all cylinders were around 155PSI
What are you using for a Cam?
I’ll grab a video of mine and see if I can post it

 

Let’s see if this link works for mine running

 

Possibly a sticking valve.

I doubt that would give a ‘constant’ ticking noise.

 

Did you put pennies under the intake to block the exhaust crossover? Freeze plugs are tight but the pennies may rattle(mine did) Pete

 

Hey Rob

yours sounds exactly like mine, I’ll repost my video
It’s identical
As for the scam it’s an isky
This issue just popped up last week, up until then it made no ticking. But pulls hard tons of oil pressure, doesn’t miss
Did you ever find a resolution to yours? Was yours always ticking or did it creep up? If I remember right yours is a nicely built mill as well by a reputable guy

 

Deans 30 coupe by hooliganshotrods posted Sep 29, 2022 at 3:03 PM

trying to post video again as some say they can’t see it

 

Video link still not working. I uploaded to you tube and just pasted the link
Yes mine is a build from Bill who had a good reputation. Mine has always seemed a bit noisy. But sometimes the sound seems to come and go a bit or is at least more pronounced.
It’s a L100 Kiwi cam that calls for .016” clearance. Seems a little more cleaner then other cams call for so some clattering is expected. I just had the intake off last week and blocked the exhaust crossovers. At that point I ran the valves again and all were within a .0005 of where I set them too last year so my fears of a failing can lobe were gone.
I have not ever been able to pinpoint the sound I keep meaning to run it with the belts off to see if it’s water pump/fan noise (you may have inspired me to do that tomorrow)
honestly at this point it dose not seem to be getting worse so I’m just letting it run. I work as a diesel tech so I’m around lots of engines and for some reason some are just louder then others not sure if it the harmonics up the exhaust or just the cam profile that causes the tick. My only other thought is maybe the crank case vent tube from the lifter valley into the intake it rattling under the intake which is right by #1

 

All Good info Rob, thanks

I’m gonna try this again this time with a YouTube link


https://youtube.com/shorts/bauzWnLRUIc?feature=share

 

And one more:

https://youtube.com/shorts/vr8PYi_GbkU?feature=share

 

Do the flatheads use the same valve lash specs for both intake and exhaust?

 

Dean That definitely sounds noticeable. I guess mine would be worse cold. Just took it out for a run and cold backing out of the garage it really clacks away but after a min or two mine quiets down. Bellow is a Video or it running hot after a 10min drive
Does your get better with heat? May not hurt to pop the intake and run the valves that way you know it’s not a lifter that’s cone out of adjustment

https://youtube.com/shorts/McYIskVPz6s?feature=share

 

Do the flatheads use the same valve lash specs for both intake and exhaust? [/QUOTE] No, intake should be set at at 14 and exhaust at 18. That information is based on the Ford passenger car Shop Manual published by the Ford Motor Company.

 

Valve lash is usually dictated by who ever made you cam grinder should have a lash spec

 

No belts on about the same sounds

https://youtube.com/shorts/RkJQJ1FUGtQ?feature=share

 

Pulled the intake yesterday, valves looked good . I’m running pcv under the intake, noticed when we pulled the intake off the pcv had come out of the block but we noticed when you shake it, the rattle in it sounds identical to the tick the motor is making and where the pcv exist is the same location as the tick, so is it possible that what we are hearing here is actually the pcv rattling? Considering it really isn’t isolated worh rubber and just sits in the block? I imagine that the rattle from shaking in your hand would be amplified
Other then the annoying tick the motor runs excellent, pulls good, doesn’t miss
Any thoughts on the pcv being the culprit?

 

When the engine is running the pvc ball should be pulled open with vacuum. I can’t see it making enough noise unless its defective or there is an unidentified vacuum leak in the hoses to it.
Check for an exhaust leak. Or a vacuum leak also at the intake and carb areas.
Also I have a powergen on my coupe. It’s been a noisy SOB since I’ve bought it five years ago.

 

Different PCV valves can operate in different vacuum ranges. Would be fairly cheap to try a different valve for a different application than you're currently using. There are adjustable PCV valves but they're on the spendy side.

Where's the vacuum source for your current valve? Somewhere in the plenum area or in a more isolated runner in the intake?

 

The engine souds good but noisy for a sidevalve.I think it's just clearances stacking up on the loose side...Very nice car overall

 

I suspect valve lash. .016 to .o18 sounds awfully loose to me. Memory tells me that .011 intake and .014 exhaust was the stock setting on an 8BA engine (?). Hot cams will have their own lash specs, though. Also, I've found it not uncommon for a fresh engine will need to have the valves adjusted again after a few hundred miles. Also, if the PCV valve had come out of its hole that could very well be the ticking noise you hear. Especially at idle and slow speeds.

 

Hey any updates on the ticking? Did you get the car running again with the PVC in place?

 

@Mart didn't you have a similar issue with your under intake pcv?

 

Went up to Gords today and we pulled the intake again, this time we checked all the lash on all the valves and many were way way out, so we adjusted the valves, put it back together and no more ticking..........BUT by the time I drove it from his place back to mine a small tick has developed so I'm thinking that the adjusting screw on the lifter is loosening and or tightening. But it is very minor compared to what it was, so I'll keep my ears on it and drive it, if it worsens again like I suspect then I'll have to sort that out then. I have read of some guys scoring the thread on the adjuster after setting the lash to keep it from walking.

 

@Mart reposition his PCV valve because of noise. Maybe he’ll chime in on this thread now that I’ve high lighted his name.

 

Next time you're in there getting your fingers dirty, could you take a picture. I'm curious what you're working with. Thanks.

 

I’m glad you found something as easy as a backed off adjuster. It’s a bit of a pain to pull the intake every time you do a valve check. I’m have had mine apart twice last month
Did you find the adjusters moved easily in the lifters? Mine a fairly stiff as you want that interference to lock the screw in place. If yours keep moving then I could see you needing to peen the threads to get them to lock up.
What did you set the valve cleaners too

 

I'm gonna be pulling the intake again in a bit, i'm certain some of the adjusters are loosening again. Last time we had the intake off, some valves had a bit of clearance while some had way more then they should have and only a few were correct. The Isky spec for my cam is .014" so that's what we set them too. It took one drive home before the ticking started up again.....though it is not as bad as before but it's there.

 

Does the engine have to be up to operating temperature for the ticking to return? Or after a few days of driving is the ticking noticeable after cold start?