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Projects Just A Big Model (T)

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by BigJoeArt, Oct 4, 2022.

  1. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Nice clamps
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  2. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I figured you would like those, I used my big boy clamps for this.
     
    winduptoy and Tim like this.
  3. Looking good! :cool:
     
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  4. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,826

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Will follow along. A cool build
     
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  5. Auggie Dawgie
    Joined: May 2, 2019
    Posts: 37

    Auggie Dawgie
    Member
    from New Jersey

    Go man go! This T is sweet!
     
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  6. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    When I left off last time, I was moving in on finishing the rear suspension, and so, naturally, I haven't touched the rearend since.

    Instead I moved back to the front.
    I started with building a set of motor mounts, they aren't finished, but they hold the motor up and in place.
    also placed the alternator with its bracket, and started playing with shock placement.
    on a car this small you cant do one thing at a time, cause the next thing probably needs to go in the same place.

    Then I started building the radiator crossmember. since I am running quarter ellipticals I only have to hold the radiator in between the springs. so to protect it, I figured I would capture the bottom in a tube, and after a little searching I found the right tube.
    So then I mocked it up on 2x4s and chunks of metal till I had it positioned like I wanted it, and started filling in the dots.

    I used an old set of framehorns, (I think chevy?) to make a bump over the center of the springs, and then used a section of c10 truck rail (from a frame I shortened earlier this year) on the bottom.

    I then used the bottom part of the frame horns to create the inner curve from the radiator mount to go back and connect to the crossmember.
    some close ups of the engine mounts.
    All tacked together and assembled. I will be building the front edge up to clear the springs and also mount the shocks off the front of the framerail.
    Clearance Clarence.

    Now for less clearance.
    still ignoring the looming rear suspension out of sheer laziness and not wanting to be-bracket and clean the rear end, I decided to move onto the cowl hoop. but to do that I needed to put the cowl bump on the other side.
    As you can see, not much room, and it will wind up triangulated to everything I can get it to.
    with the steering mocked up and the pedals in place, room is at a premium.

    some delicate engineering to mount the steering column.

    After all that, its good to step back and relax, stare at the car, and then start wondering what color it will be. .

    this is my current pick. subject to change at anytime.
     
    brEad, catdad49, Vic Walter and 8 others like this.
  7. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 7,706

    A Boner
    Member

    Definitely going to be a very slick Hot Rod “T”! CBDEB2C5-20B3-4BC6-A097-59881D2F7584.png
     
  8. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,619

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    I like the full perimeter frame rails, they look like a belly pan. Fills in the space usually seen under channeled T buckets!
     
  9. Squablow
    Joined: Apr 26, 2005
    Posts: 17,781

    Squablow
    Member

    I like it, and it seems like you fit in there very well, which is a tough thing to do in a T roadster, especially an early one. Layout looks good. Curious to know if you're going to pinch the rear frame rails to match the turtle deck? I widened my deck to match the rails better, but I'm using that same deck on a '26 body so it looked awfully small in stock format. Looking forward to seeing it come together.
     
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  10. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks mike, it will actually have the floor placed level with the bottom of the framerails, so it will have a very deep interior.

    I am actually going to cut the rails off right at the spring perch crossmember, and then build a kickup with smaller tubing to hold the turtledeck.
     
  11. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Thoughts.

    - any plan for holding the radiator down yet?
    - can you use a wrench on the jack bolts? I’ve had to re do a few things where I could use my hand but when it needed tightened a wrench didn’t really fit for shit
    - if you lift the car from the frame will the front suspension end up resting on that lower channel you’ve added ?

    looks like your making good progress :) I could see it 40 ford maroon
     
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  12. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    yeah, a bit unconventional and hard to explain, but basically rubber in the crossmember and using the grille to hold the radiator down, with more rubber in the top, and hood rod or two to hold it in place.

    yeah, that's why the motor mounts look a little funky, and why the adjustment bolts are in, but extended all the way. I'm actually more worried about getting the bottom half of the motor mount out. o_O

    I can bounce the front of the frame and get it to compress quite a bit and it never gets close. and that's with the nose as low as it can be.
     
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  13. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    I was thinking more when the car is on jack stands.

    might look at 60’s Lincoln’s radiators they are held in pretty similar.
     
    winduptoy likes this.
  14. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    After I got off work last night me and a couple buddies started pulling parts off the motor in preparation to install a 350 instead of the 305 block I had mocked up in place.
    The main reason for this, was that I needed the manual clutch ball boss on the side of the motor, and it is not there on 305 blocks.
    so we pulled it apart and after some rigging, and a lot of back and forth, we got the new block in there.
    since this block has a crank in it, I was able to mock up the front pulley and start to determine where some other parts will go.
    the same buddy that brought over the motor also brought over the old single pot master that he took off his 64 impala.
    So that started the mocking up of the pedals.
    I had to notch the cowl to place the master cylinder in a spot that wouldn't hit the back of the valve cover.
    the pedal setup is the same type of speedway unit I used on my last car, and since this is an early T, I had to cut most of the clutch side of the mount off and brace it with some steel welded in at an angle.
    I wound up having to cut up my pretty hoop and use the pedal assembly as part of the cowl structure. the hardest part was making clearance the cowl for the master cylinder bail wire.
    I then decided to mock up the dash, and steering column, and a seat-ish piece, so I could determine where pedals need to go, and I think I need a 2" kick to the left in my pedals. so I'm gonna hit up my buddy with a torch for that. While I was there, I also determined where the gas pedal will go. it will be tight, but I will fit. ;)
     
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  15. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,352

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Following this, looks like a good one.
     
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  16. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    The brake master notch kinda reminds me of the twin fan special. Wonder if you could get away with a little blister/ louver over it and still get the cap off
     
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  17. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I'm gonna try just nicely finishing around it, I think a scoop or blister would clutter things up too much.
     
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  18. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    Yeah I thought it may draw the eye to it more than it needs, just a thought on “finishing” the edge.

    A clean corner/edge or even a little welded rod like the lead slinger used to do around frenched antennas should work I’d think.
     
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  19. hotdamn
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 2,476

    hotdamn
    Member

    this thing is gonna rule
     
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  20. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,741

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Looking good ! I love Turtledecks.
     
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  21. winduptoy
    Joined: Feb 19, 2013
    Posts: 3,626

    winduptoy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Go Joey, go!!!
     
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  22. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    before I continue working on it today, I wanted to update where I got yesterday. I got the pedals bent,
    Built most of the cowl bracing, using 1x1 tube on the passenger side and 1x1/8 on the driver side. I also got a rough draft of a steering drop tacked together.
    I then wanted to see it with the steering drop filled, and my favorite gauge installed, I've been waiting to use it.
    I also installed a floorpan/bellypan mockup.
    and for those who have asked, here's how I fit in it. for reference I am 6' with size 13 shoes.
    as I sat in it, i started to think about where stuff would go so I could reach it. i decided that the battery could live on the floor under my feet (gel type on its side) in an original coil box ( if anyone has a lid im looking) and the switches and fuse block would wind up under the driver side seat.
    I also played aroundwith paint a little bit..
    another episode tomorrow!
     
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  23. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 14,441

    Budget36
    Member

    I’ll ask, what runs the “% normal” gauge?
     
  24. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Its just a gag, I'm sure it has a purpose in whatever it came out of, but I'm not gonna hook it up.
    I'm negative % normal. :D:D
     
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  25. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 18,218

    Tim
    Member
    from KCMO

    We should get a stamped calibration inspection tag for it haha.
     
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  26. BILL LUPIANO
    Joined: Dec 19, 2015
    Posts: 288

    BILL LUPIANO
    BANNED
    from Canada

    Saweeet! Keep up the good work!
     
  27. Frames
    Joined: Apr 24, 2012
    Posts: 5,129

    Frames
    Member

    I like hairpins. Radius rods that is. An awful lot of expert HAMB keyboaders told me that's not a good way to go. I don't care. They just look great. That's what is all about after 2014-07-17 15.32.32.jpg all,
     
  28. Frames
    Joined: Apr 24, 2012
    Posts: 5,129

    Frames
    Member

    I like the 27 body for more foot room. I even widened the front 2" at the bottom. But I prefer the 23 T turtle deck. I built that out of aluminum. GOODSGUYS   PACKARD 017.JPG GOODSGUYS   PACKARD 017.JPG GOODSGUYS   PACKARD 017.JPG
     
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  29. Frames
    Joined: Apr 24, 2012
    Posts: 5,129

    Frames
    Member

    I even have a 1" radius on the bottom of my frame rails. 2003-12-31 23.00.00-16.jpg
     
    brEad, catdad49, Atwater Mike and 2 others like this.
  30. BigJoeArt
    Joined: Dec 12, 2011
    Posts: 699

    BigJoeArt
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I've always liked your little T, lotsa neat parts and out-of-the-box thinking!

    also hairpins for the win.
     
    catdad49 and winduptoy like this.

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