Hey guys. I'm in the process of mating a '26 T roadster to a Model A frame. I know this has been done quite a bit but as this is my first real build I'm befuddled by a cooling conundrum. I will solve it eventually on my own as I have a few options in front of me but would like to review others' notes if anyone has experience to share. Obviously the 30/31 Model A radiator is too tall. My first thought was to chop the A radiator and shell in place in order to bring the top of the shell down in line with the T cowl. The problems with this are twofold; one, chopping a radiator is a pain in the ass, and two, the top tank/hose neck will interfere with the fan. Second thought was to use a radiator from a different car. I have a radiator from a '64 Comet which fits within the grille shell but I think is actually too short haha. Also, the hose necks are both in the wrong places & the filler is obviously not centered. As I am planning to run without a hood I would like to not have a dummy filler neck if at all possible... We tried a '28/29 radiator and shell and it was still too tall. I know I just said I'm planning to run without a hood, but I do want the option of maybe putting a hood on it later, so it has to be right! Third thought is to push the Model A radiator out in front of the crossmember and drop it down. This saves me having to chop the radiator & grille shell, but doesn't solve the fan/hose clearance problems, and actually causes another interference with the lower hose and crossmember. More importantly, I think as far as proportions go, the radiator really should be directly above the front axle... otherwise the nose looks too long. But if anyone has done this I'd love to see how it turned out. We ultimately have the tools and ability to cut stuff up until it works... but I'm wondering if I'm missing an obvious solution here. Thanks guys.
I have considered a T radiator but not sure if an off the shelf T rad will be the right height when bolted to the Model A crossmember. Wish I could find a beat up one locally to mock up - they are sure expensive. I'm expecting the solution to the upper hose problem will be trimming or relocating the fan...
Here is a source with dimensions. https://www.championradiators.com/A...-bucket-radiator-Ford-engine-shroud-1924-1927
I think you're on the right track with a T radiator. But since you ask, I'll share my experience. I faced this same problem when I put a T speedster body on an A chassis. I opted to move my '31 radiator forward and down. But you're right, this added a lot of length--because not only must you clear the crossmember, you must also allow additional space to snake a radiator outlet hose through. This wasn't a problem for me because I was going to use a long hood off a '32 LaSalle. But the esthetics of your car may differ. Here are the rad support brackets I made; pretty basic: Here's how the rad/shell looked sitting forward and down (this is a 30/31 AA shell, btw; length and width are same as passenger Model A, although it's deeper): This is an engine-bay-look at my lower radiator hose. I had the radiator shop add a custom outlet to the lower tank that points straight up, and from there plumbed everything up and over the front cross member. Like you, I was also worried about fan clearance. Then a fellow hamber suggested I could simply replace the angled upper radiator inlet with a straight one. So obvious, and yet I hadn't seen it. That change bought just enough clearance for my mechanical fan. Hope this helps. Sorry for the poor quality of the pics. If there's something you'd like to see better, feel free to ask. I have a much better camera now.
Radiator shop quoted me 1100-1300 bucks to modify my radiator! It would be cheaper to have Brassworks custom build me one. I guess I’m gonna try doing it myself.
I knew I had seen scalloped tanks like that but could not find a radiator with one when I went looking. Is the tank custom?
Thanks! A bracket like that is what I was envisioning. I’d like to see the whole car! I haven’t seen a T with a 30 shell yet, I thought I was unique!
The bottom of the T radiator is totally wrong for an A frame. Just won't fit. I use '28-'29 radiator and raise the body 1.5" with wood. IMHO, this works well. Dave
Well, mine is a period aftermarket body (Mercury Body Corp.) , so a comparison to stock is not exactly apples-to-apples. But the height/balance issues are similar. Here it is: Having the nose so far forward relative to the wheels really does change the attitude. But again, with that bulky LaSalle hood it's not a direct translation to what you're doing. Incidentally, the commercial rad shell has several benefits. First, it doesn't scream Model A, even though it is proportionally the same (height and width). Second, it's made of steel, which is easier to fix/modify than a stock 30/31 stainless shell. However, the commercial shell is configured one-inch deeper to accommodate a heavy duty radiator. On mine, we moved the water neck on top forward by 1" to accommodate a stock radiator. If you want to retain the stock location and can find a shorter radiator, a commercial shell would be much easier to cut down. That $1,100+ quote you got to modify your radiator is crazy. I paid a pro shop $500 for a fresh rebuilt radiator, and then he charged me something like $100 to modify the upper and lower hose fittings. That price included a stop by my house to take measurements--primarily to see how far up he could cheat the upper inlet, to gain a fraction on an inch more fan clearance. Also threw in the copper elbow I needed to route the lower hose over the crossmember. Mind you, this is an independent shop, and the owner/operator is a die-hard car guy who thought the project was cool. (And probably didn't hurt that my brother throws a lot of business his way.)
reduce the shell by cutting at frame line- thus hiding the reduced cut behind frame-spot weld or screw the base back together to lower ht. fit lower size you will need with alm. radiator - cost should be under $200. with after market rad.
I used the smaller chopped aluminum radiator for 32 to flathead. Left the radiator in the stock location but moved the engine back around 2 inches. Had to modify A crossmember and make a new water inlet but everything looks right proportionally.
Thanks - good idea! Looks really cool with that custom water neck. I found a chopped aluminum 32 radiator that's intended for the 4-banger. It might be short enough to work & looks like it should be easy to bolt up... will take some measurements off my car next weekend and see. It does have a fake filler but I'll get over it.
I spent a lot of time looking at the car from different angles to make sure the radiator shell was in the right place with the right height and angle. The radiator shell is cut down so its lower than the cowl at the fire wall. After this i was able to figure out where the engine needed to be to make it all fit. Its recessed into the fire wall a bit but i will make some sheet metal to finish it off right.
That's awesome, and now you qualify for the altered class! I guess you had to shorten your torque tube accordingly? As things are, I think I can just barely cram a heater in the footwell even with the cowl gas tank. But then again if the engine was in the cabin with me I wouldn't need a heater...
I use a 28"A" shell,that is cut down almost 3inchs in hight,on custom lower brackets,,with what was called a alum T-bucket rad from Champion, in my case Ford V8out lets. Other then it being only 1/2inch less wide then a 28"A" and low=as a t-bucket rad. It works well,and replaced a custom brass n copper one that rotted out after close to 30+ years of use.
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