Hot Rods Looking to purchase a car from another state

Gentlemen, A longtime lurker big fam of old Fords. I have found a car I am interested in but is 1200 miles away. My question is directed at those who have purchased a car from out of state. What advise would you give in such a transaction? Especially the payment portion. Would you send money prior to receiving the car? I found a car in Washington state I am interested in but feel a bit apprehensive with the transaction as I do not know the individual personally. It is a 1929 roadster. I thought about hiring a mobile notary to handle the transaction for me. Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Anybody here in the Gig Harbor area?
Thanks!
Ace

 

Does your state require a vehicle inspection for cars coming from out of state? If they do they will want to see the frame number to make sure it matches the title.This may mean pulling a fender.Some old cars were registered by engine number.If the original engine is long gone the title number will match nothing.If such a car is purchased in state these things may never get noticed. Coming from out of state they may well. These are things to understand in advance to avoid a heart break later. A lot of this can be worked out later,but it may well mean trips to the dmv,or highway patrol to verify the cars ID.

 

Irishsteve, it is my understanding that will not be necessary with a clean title. I was looking for a steel body but for price I feel this is the car! It is a glass body roadster of a fairly recent build. I am excited about the mechanicals the owner installed in this car. My issue is I super busy at work and cannot fly out there. I have seen pics and videos of the car. I have contacted the owner and feel good about the transaction. We have discussed payment and I can have a transport retrieve the car. In the back of mind I would like to avoid a mistake on my part and be scammed.

 

There are a ton of Ford steel bodied 29s out there. I’d think real hard about buying a glass car from pics and videos. You are a big fan of old fords, BUT a glass anything isn’t an old Ford. You may be super busy at work, but you may also be super busy and super disappointed at what you bought. Pics? Details? Don’t do it just yet.

 

Find someone that can vouch for the car, get
More photos and videos. make sure to have all the sellers info. Look them up online to make sure they are legit.
if you are part of any national clubs. See if a club member can check it for you. I don’t think the Hamb counts so much any more, maybe alliance to alliance members?
Once it’s confirmed Bank transfer would be the way to go.

always check the VIN and have some confirm the title to the VIN.

I have bought a few cars this way. No biggie. Confirming it’s not a scammer, then VIN and title is the most important. Then arrange shipper. sometime they mail the title.

I have done one where I went to it tue car and decided to step away. Flew there made a day trip of it. Glad I passed. Small amount to pay in the long run.

another my wife and I flew in to see it and test drove. Bought and went home and shipped.

 

I agree with all the advice given so far. You should definitely check with your states DMV to see what they require for registration. In NY we only get transferable registrations for vehicles that were built before 1973. Some states don’t recognize this and won’t let you register it. I’ve had people walk away from a sale because of this.

 

If your concerns are the payment , not the shape of the car, I’ve heard of escrow places (never used one). Might be something to look into.

 

There appears to be a bunch of members in the Gig Harbor area. Might try to locate one that can assist you in looking at the vehicle. Try the member search and type in the city, lots to look over.

 

As far as payment goes, I only recommend to my transport customers bank wire transfers (if you cannot show up with cash) as it is the safest way. I would definitely stay away from Dollar General, WalMart, etc money orders...They are NOT safe unless you are sending it to a friend or family member. Even then they are "sketchy" at best!

Your signature as the buyer does not have to be notarized, just the sellers, so he should be able to handle that. Not sure about your state, but here in Ohio the only "out of state inspection" is just having the serial number on the title match the car & that can be handled at the license bureau or many car dealerships (again this is in Ohio) I have done it over 100 times (your state may differ)

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

Done two this year. I talk with owners and get to know them a little. Both of mine have been under 4K and not so nice cars. So it was worth the gamble to me. Sent Venmo on one, and post office money order on other. Had good dealings. Both was 1200 miles away. Cheaper to ship.

 

My Ford came from Denver with a clean title, I saw a picture of it up front. I did a wire transfer of the funds. Getting it shipped 1800 miles took a bit of doing.

 

I appreciate the input Gentlemen! I found a car on ebay that I felt I need to have. Although I have never wanted anything but a steel Model A this car just tugged at me. It is a glass body car but I truly like the look of it and feel for 18k I would have a tough time replicating it. I feel it would be a fun car to tool around in on weekends. Down the road if I love the car and feel the need to find a steel body then I may make some changes. I may hire a mobile tech to inspect it for me or I may have to bite the bullet and fly out.
I am having trouble uploading pics of the car.
the mechanicals are as follow.
Powered by a rebuilt 1934 Model B engine with counterbalanced crankshaft, bored .60 over. Inserted rods and mains,winfield cam, Two prort riley overhead valvehead, electronic ignition, dual carb intake with Streomberg 97s. Lightened flywheel, 39 ford synchrmesh transmission, hydraulic brakes 3:78 gears in the rear end along with a few more items.

 

Payment thru bank is the safest. Does your bank have a branch in that area.
Can the sellers bank assist - receive wire transfer or you can open an account at his local bank.

Walk in - do the transfer - either wire it or sign over balance. The bank may act as short term escrow service as well.

 

Yuppers, this is a talk to your banker thing.
Gig Harbor is across the Narrows Bridge from Tacoma. We have a number of members in the Tacoma area but there is a fee to cross the bridge. It' 188 miles from me.

 

I’ve bought and sold many cars in Wa., mainly as part of my fleet business. I’ve never seen WA inspect an in state car for the VIN (let alone a serial number) unless it was a rebuilt total. Then they do an inspection, and the vin and the rivets are one of the things they look for. So that vehicle could be on nothing but a paper title, and gone thru several hands in WA and never been looked at, if the title changes were all in state. Lost titles, totaled etc. can vary. It’s also relatively easy to get a home built title with an issued VIN and plate here (hoops to go thru, but possible). I’d be real careful that the numbers were in order and proper, and familiar with what you’re state wants. Especially with a glass body that didn’t come on a oem frame.

 

With a glass body how is it titled? By the time you pay transport you will be in for over $20K, for a banger powered glass car!!!!!!!!!.

You can buy a properly titled V8 henry ford steel car for that sort of money and should be able to hunt one up locally or within a days drive.

 

I live in WA and I’ve brought many cars in from out of state and have never needed an inspection to get a WA title. All the licensing offices only need is a good title and a bill of sale and their transfer forms filled out correctly.

 

The car he wants to buy is in Washington, he needs to check with the DMV in his state (which I believe he did not name) to see what the procedure is.

 

I got that. I just wanted to pass on that you have to make sure the car matches the title yourself. It’s easy to get a title here so it’s easy to get something that doesn’t match.
Buyer beware.

 

The BIG advantage of a glass car, is a decent body...especially if you're buying sight-unseen. An all steel body is still "all steel" even though it needed $2500 worth of repair patch panels just to save it

 

Looking at eBay just now, there is no '29 Model A roadster that fits the description of the one in this thread

 

Good morning. I appreciate the input and have decided to fly out to Seattle to inspect and finalize the deal. Although, it is a glass roadster. I like the car. Are there any issues I should look for in a glass body? In my uneducated mind I feel should look for cracks within the body and panels. It is titled as a 1929. It is no longer on eBay.

 

Have fun with it.https://www.ebay.com/itm/354334359117?hash=item527ff93e4d:g:BoYAAOSwwH9jSgxR&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAAoHAI74SDKpuIMWJo2ulC8QlUj7+FLbYLh8L+OIfU61JXejjB/G1bvm2WarDoz16d8H91rLntvRseYHnAaUA26/A+wCfiOfY20xmP1bmXtPYPvmK8euKmFTvWk4UmTDGOoX1kWm5Z/PI+pZiUehRtu0jPEUmfDmHVBksQ+NS8fMYWcmG9VzG2oiKeZkwQa0TAUWIC0f0ftfBVEqkqF+Ay89I=|tkp:Bk9SR8Sh8pCHYQ&LH_ItemCondition=3000|1000|2500&nma=true&si=BBrZzI1j092L8jMhsSQS%2BghNLpE%3D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557

 

I have bought 3 vehicals off ebay and 1 off CL - all 4 were sight unseen with no complaints
shipping was a bit stressful but all went well
wife has taken my ebay viewing privilages from me but I still sneak a peek when shes not looking
good luck w/ yours

 

I bought a car from the state of disrepair ... big mistake

 

Wow, you didn't mention the Riley overhead setup (can't tell if it's original or repro, but cool either way.) That helps explain the price.

If it were me, I'd ask the seller if the car has a Washington assigned VIN plate. I'd want to see a picture of that and the title before I flew out. It will be riveted to the firewall and have the state seal. Looks like this:



This is what a rebodied/re-engined car should have, although many skip the step. If it has this plate and the numbers match the title, I can't see any reason why your state wouldn't accept it.

Note that the plate must have the state seal. A bunch of numbers stamped into a blank plate means jack all..

If it doesn't have that official plate, it may be (likely is?) still legit. But there is nothing visible to connect the piece of paper the seller gives you with the car. Like @miker98038 said, it's pretty common for people to use an old title from a dead car when they build another one. And since Washington doesn't verify VIN on in-state transfers, nobody's the wiser as the car passes from buyer to buyer.

But if you are now taking the car to a state that will require a VIN inspection (for example, California, from what I understand), you will have to remove the body to expose the frame rail serial number, and hopefully the number is A) still visible and B) matches the VIN on your paperwork.

If the numbers don't match, all is not necessarily lost, provided your state has a title-in-doubt application process. Here in Washington State this process consists of a 3-year registration-only period, after which you get a title.

Be sure to get a notarized bill of sale to go with the title when you do the transaction, as this will speed the process.

 

I'm originally from Gig Harbor and maintain friendships with several guys that still live there, all hot rodders. You can PM me the name of the seller and I will check to see if it is familiar to any of us.

 

That is the same Assigned vin tag that The State patrol put on my homemade boat trailer . Actually an old travel trailer frame converted to sailboat trailer and inspected by the state. That means it has been inspected by a Washington State Patrol officer and it and it's paperwork passed muster .
Washington does title them as the year that they present themselves at most of the time even with the assigned vin.
It could still be titled with the original serial number off the original title for the chassis though. If that is the case I would want proof that that number was actually stamped on the frame rail.
As for the Glass body, it comes down a lot to who made the body. If it is a Wescott you have a solid body that most likely isn't going to have issues like some of the others might.

 

I think that's undo worry. It's my understanding that once the state patrol assigns and attaches a VIN, that becomes the car's official number, regardless of what's on the frame. I base this on what the officer told me when I went through the process myself a couple years ago with a Model A. So if this car has a state-assigned VIN plate, I'd consider it good enough.

 

Hopefully the shipping from the state of disrepair to the state of denial wasn't too expensive.