Technical CANNED HAM SAGINAW POWER STEERING PUMP

What years of GM Saginaw power steering pump had the rear mounting studs

 

Don't think this specifically answers your question but has a lot of helpful info. If you don't get an exact answer, you might call CPP as they sell a lot of them.

 

I think all the Chevys used at least one stud.

If you tell us why you're asking, we might be able to get you some useful information....why do you ask?

 

I plan on making a P/S pump bracket for my 351w, everything else puts it to far out from the engine and into the fender. All the GM P/S pumps that I have seen for this application have mounting studs in the rear of the pump. I've been keeping an eye out on the junkyard sites for an old enough pump to use.

 

The pump itself has threaded holes for two bolts or studs. There is a recess in the pump casting for a square O ring around each of the threaded holes. The O ring fits between the tin reservoir, and the cast pump housing. Either a bolt or stud is screwed into the threaded hole, depending on what is needed for the mounting brackets.

What I'm getting at, is that the studs aren't really part of the pump, they can be easily removed and replaced with bolts, or the bolts can be removed and replaced with studs, depending on what your mounting bracket requires.

One thing to watch out for is that some parts of the pump changed to metric some time in the late 1970s, so pay attention to thread size/pitch and look for bolt head markings to help you figure it out.

 

There are a 100 different reservoirs. They are clocked different, different styles, remote reservoirs. Some reservoirs have no bolt holes, 1 hole or 2 holes. The reservoirs can have 1 or 2 return lines with different locations and styles. I know of 3 different pressure unions, male flare on older cars, inverted flare and o-ring style. 2 different output shafts, bolt on and press on. Can add or subtract shims to the flow control valve for more or less pressure assist. The basic pump body is the same and virtually everything will interchange between all of them.

 

You can put studs on any of them, in either, or both of the two positions.

Get you some of this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/oer-1253573

For $10 you can be in the game.

Just note, later pumps went to metric fittings and bolts/studs. The ones that I posted are SAE.

 

If you are having a space problem you can always use that small remote reservoir pump that's at the top of the first page of the article above. They were used in the. 1987 Pontiac sunbird..... you can find it if you Google... I had to switch to that power steering pump to clear my fender well and frame and it worked out just perfect! By the way, I got my brackets from Allen Grove components..
https://www.alangrovecomponents.com/index.htm

 

That is a Saginaw TC pump. It is very popular on the tracks with corners.

They can be found, along with all of the accessories in the catalogs, and sites for oval/dirt track stuff.

They run at the same pressure and flow, in OEM spec as the P "ham can" pump, and can be similarly tuned for feel/assist.

 

This is a pump that I have. It's from an 84 Monte Carlo

 

What about using an old Eaton pump (Stude or old Ford) and modifying a bracket.

 

I'm working in tight quarters. Using the factory pump puts it in the fender.

 

I have this bracket on my 351w:
https://www.cjponyparts.com/march-p...let-ultra-polished-302-351w-1979-1993/p/PSB4/

It does not use a rear stud.

 

A little time with a flap disc and that could look like a cast piece!

 

That might be metric.

Also, it might have the second threaded hole in the pump body, just not in the reservoir.

It's worth checking.

 

It would be here:


If it is there you can drill it, but you would need to add an o-ring.

 

Looks like the P/S pump is hitting the inner fender, not the fender itself. It would be a lot easier to modify the inner fender for clearance than to go through all the wild gyrations of building special brackets to adapt a GM P/S pump to your Ford engine.

 

I'm out of town right now but when I get home I'll post some pics of bracket I made for GM pump on 351w

 

I have that same Ford pump and the PO used some of that bracketry to mount it, although not even close to being right. I ended up building my own bracket to tuck the pump in. Looking at the aftermarket offerings they were either too billety, mounted the pump too high and/or too expensive. Most looked a more than a bit flimsy too. You'll have basically the same problems with the GM pump.

The main problem is Ford doesn't have any tapped holes on the front face of the block, just the heads, so there's no place low to anchor. They also didn't tuck the pump in close to the motor, so there's no existing brackets that will work. I built an auxiliary bracket that bolts to the head and drops down to give a pivot point. I then built the rest to fit that point. Not a super-simple project, but it ain't rocket science either. Basic material list would be about 8" of heavy-wall steel tube with a 1/2" ID, a 12" x 12" piece of 1/4" steel plate, another 12" x 12" only 1/8" thick, a roughly 3" x 5" piece of 1/2" thick steel bar stock, an 8" length of 1/2" running thread (used as a locating tool) and some specialty bolts (and a good bolt place will have them). Tools would be for some way to cut the plate to shape (hole saw, torch, cut-off wheel, grinder, whatever), a welder, some taps, drills and a 1" countersink. You'll be bending some of that 1/4", a press would be nice, but a BFH will work. You will need to measure very carefully.

I should have taken pics of the build but I didn't. But if you're interested, I can show the installed bracket and whomp up some rough drawings to give the basic layout. I've got a 289/302 and the early '62-65 front engine dress so none of my measurements will be exactly right for you, but this will put you in the ballpark. If you're interested, PM me.

 

The guys pretty well nailed it, the actual pumps are pretty well the same as far as the body goes. Earlier pumps have a keyed shaft, later pumps have the pulley pressed on. As one or more said, the can you use determines it's orientation as far as bolt and outlet go. Meaning that a pump that is set up to mount high on the engine will have a can that is oriented different than one that is set up to mount down on the side of the engine. Sometimes when you are moving one around because you changed brackets = swapped from a short pump to long pump the can no longer works as it is now at an angle and or the outlet is at and impossible to get to with a hose spot.
I'd have to go out and look to make sure in the daylight but I think my 1 ton has a remote reservoir on the power steering . That might give you some elbow room if the can worked in your applicaton.

 

I have a few ideas for the two different pumps that I have, but any additional pics would be appreciated.

 

If interested in a remote reservoir can they are probably most common and the easiest to find were on the 6.2 diesel in GM pickups. I have seen them on big block pickups from the late 60's and the 70's 1 ton trucks with hydroboost brakes also.

Just a couple pics from the internet of the 6.2 diesel pump and remote reservoir

 

68-72 big block chevy trucks (including half ton), and 65-68 big block Chevelles, used the remote reservoir pump also, but they were slightly different.

 

Here's a couple of my homemade bracket. Think it was 3/8 plate. And, it's on 351W in a 1947 Ford coupe.

 

I'm having trouble finding the typical (spec) pressure of the '66 Chev Delco P/S pump.
Mine drives a Toyota 4 X 4 steering box, but seems to have inadequate pressure: Anyone have pressure specs???
I've read "1,000 - 1500 PSI". True dis?

 

66 chevy car shop manual

 

The pressure and flow rates of these can be modified.

Some have pushed them to 1650psi. I doubt that you would need that much.

PSC Motorsports makes my power steering stuff. The might be able to provide guidance

https://www.pscmotorsports.com/68-74-gm-amc-new-replacement-pump.html.

 

That's almost a flat enough of a view that I can trace it on CAD and have it lasered at work. What size holes did you use so I can scale it?

 

Would I be able to drill and tap a second stud to the bottom of the reservoir?

 

The stud does not attach to the reservoir. It passes through a hole in it.

It actually threads into the Iron body of the pump. There is a little square o-ring on the back of the pump, in a groove, that seals the hole in the reservoir when the stud is tightened.

It is very possible that your pump already has the second hole, it was just not used in the original application.

You would need to take the flow valve (the big nut thing, don't loose the parts behind it), and the existing stud out.

You can push the pump body out by setting the reservoir lip over an open vise, and pushing down with a screwdriver in the stud hole. Only the big o-ring on the front might hold it back.

Or prying gently with a block of wood between the reservoir lip and the pulley.

The back of the Iron pump body should look like this:


You will note that there is a second threaded hole where you have none. Your pump may have this.

If it does. Find a bolt that fits the threads. Cut the head off. Grind it by rotating it to a centered point that sticks up just above the pump body when screwed in. Put that there. Put the pump body back in the reservoir, and line up the stud hole, and flow control holes. Give the pump shaft a gentle tap with a mallet.

Take the pump body back out, and discard the pointy bolt. You will note that it has made a center-punch mark where you need to drill. Drill there for the same size hole as the existing stud hole.

Reassemble, with a stud kit, and fresh seals. Use a little grease to keep the seals from wandering off when you put it together. I posted the stud kit already.

Here are the seals: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-7918

Another $15.

For $25 you could be in the game!

If your pump for some reason does not have the second threaded hole, most auto parts stores have Saginaw P pumps, without the reservoir, so you can count the holes before buying. As for which car would be a match, this pump design came in about a half-a-million different configurations. It would be hard to arrive at a list.

Might be easier to look inside, and then roll your own.