Technical Yeah, Its got a Hemi/41 shop truck

Super job Billy,,,,utilizing every extra area .
Good color choices too,,,that steering wheel is tops .

Tommy

 

I like the little drop tie you put on the fuse door and the poco felt matt.

 

Billy;
Why do I feel close and personal to your project? A 40, an uncut firewall and a Hemi! I am feeling the urge here. You may be a Bad influence on my fresh acquisition. I mean, the front Sheetmetal is already off. Feels like a set up.

 

Looking good Billy! Glad that you are feeling better and back to work on this.

 

I really like your progress and I might have to borrow your riser drawer idea. My riser is messed up and needs some rebuild anyway. The trans cover looks good.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate that. I love that steering wheel; I knew that was going in the truck before I owned the truck!

The drop is an extra glove box door stay for the PU. I figured if it was good for the dash it was gooder for the rider.

Oh, I think you have that all figured out all by yourself! I am a bad influence I am told though. Blown Hemi in that new 40, you know you wanna.

Over the cold but the last mean little trick it had in store for me was a nasty cough that, if you were standing, could make you extremely lightheaded. Add a bit of nighttime theraflu to the mix and trouble is about to happen. The night before turkey day I got out of my chair to go to bed and started coughing so hard I blacked out for an instant but that was long enough to fall backward and hit the floor. I have a nice purple arse now and the hamstrings are so tight I can't pick up stuff I drop on the garage floor. Sucks getting old.

In hindsight the shot of crown apple and fireball in the theraflu may have been a bad idea.

You wouldn't be the only one Joel, I have had a few folks PM me and say they are doing the same. There is a lot of acreage under that seat going to waste, use every inch you can.

 

Uhg, there is a lot of wiring to connect up. All of the basic components are wired. Neg to the frame, power to the starter, alternator to the battery, etc. This pic you can see the 4 pole kill switch, on this side the power runs through the accessory's breaker on top pf the switch and on the bottom the alternator feed is running through it own breaker and inot the kill switch. On the other side of the kill switch there is a loop wire that connects the two terminals on the hot side. When thrown the alternator is dead and the accessories.

From there the accessory power goes to two sides of the fuse panel. The ignition switch will light half the board with a single lead. In fact, everything is a single lead from here. I love the simplicity of the Coach Controls platform. The panel leads are a bit heavy, but I already made them for the mockup so I could drive the truck before tearing it down.

I added a ground bus under the seat adjacent to the fuse panel to handle all of the under the seat grounds. It is connected to the frame.

and another one under the dash to handle those grounds.

Electric Fan Alert!! No, not under the hood, under the seat, to blow a little air across the components I will be installing. Air intake is via the steel mesh I added to the rear of the riser.

My wife was in "elf mode" inside the house decorating for Christmas so I did a little decorating of my own. I don't like drilling holes in my pretty firewall, so I stuck them on with double sided tape. I will add some rivet heads later.

2022 Alliance plate...Check that box! Yeah, there's a hose missing. I ordered it on Amazon and it will be here this week. It has a molded 90-degree bend in it so it will shoot off the intake without a huge loop and head to that waiting water pipe in the cowl. And I still need to snug down the AC high pressure line I just noticed. I didn't have the right wrench the other day and I forgot to get back under the dash.

Oh well, back to work in the morning. A productive holiday weekend all in all. I would have liked to have got a few more things done but even a little progress feels good.

 

Looking mighty fine their Bandit. I like seeing some of the final touches I am stealing from you in play

 

I like creating these threads as it gives me something to do in the evening and I pass on ideas that I stole from other people on here. It's sort of like a virus but in a good way. I've said it before but the HAMB is like etsy for gear heads.

 

Just when I think you can't come up with any more cool fantastic ideas, you blow my mind again. Great build Billy. Thanks so much for sharing your talent.

 

Awesome compliment Mikey! That's the kind of stuff that keeps me from skimping. I will endeavor to keep you amused.

 

Sooooo many projects to get this truck wired. I have been working on the stereo, courtesy lighting, tranny shift computer, etc.

First off I bought some 1/4" Plexiglas, drilled and shaped to fit the floor area. It measures 16" X 12". I started attaching the components with threaded bolts as I tapped threads in the plexi to make it easier to replace a component with out removing the board.
The nuts you see under the units are spacers so everything has an air gap for the computer fan to cool. There a few more items to add still to the board but they are small and will be applied using 3/M double sided tape.

Early on I welded 4 studs to the cab floor to be used to secure my electronics board under the seat. to those I added rubber insulators to keep things quiet and leave an air gap under the board as well. You can see the close proximity of the board to my fuse panel for easy wiring. I carpeted the interior of the riser after adding sound deadener.

I placed the battery as close to the front of the riser as possible to leave room for a small dual voice coil, Kicker subwoofer that I have had lying around and never used. I started building the enclosure out of the same 1/4" plexi. I tapped it as well so the sub can be replaced since the box will be glued together permanently.

It isn't very big but I am half deaf and I'm not shooting for any car stereo wars. However, I think this will sound very nice, playing my wife's country music (arf). The sub is angled to fire through the webbed steel back panel of the seat riser that I welded in. The remainder of the speakers are in the bottom of the doors and that is the next project.

A bit of tech but once the seat is lowered it is all out of sight and mind. I am adding a strip of LEDS under the new seat riser braces I welded in to light things up under the seat for service, switched by one of the toggles.

Early on I purchased these Fender amplifier handles from a place called Amplified parts. They are black leather with white stitching which matches my motif.
As you can see I set threaded inserts in the doors to secure the straps. This area of the doors will be upholstered to coordinate with the seat.

Thinking ahead, I laid a piece of pallet wood inside the doors that are still being polished, to keep my drill from plunging through the outside panel.
Glad I did so, as I did make contact with it on one hole. That would have pissed me off!

The straps fold flat when not in use. I propped them up for the picture.
You can see all of the holes in the bottom of the door for the mids and tweeters, plus the tunable crossovers. That is next, then I can finish polishing the doors and hang them back on the truck for wiring.

 

It's that stupid Dodge 4 speed, auto tranny, you can trigger the OD with a toggle/relay/pressure switches but that is too complicated for my wife. Compu shift makes a small unit that will make the OD kick in and out automatically. Not very HAMBy though.

 

Hush your mouth!

You're playng with fire my friend.

 

If it makes it easier for her to enjoy (hence she uses it more), then that's the thing to do! That truck won't be a damn if it isn't driven!!

 

Billy,,,what transmission,,,,,,46RE,,or 46RH ?
The RH is easy to use with a kit that’s offered from the aftermarket .

Tommy

 

It's the 46RE or A518 without the lock up converter.

 

Man, I feel like a slacker.

 

You could put those lyrics to the tune of that Shinia Twain song "I feel like a woman".
Hang in there buddy. Plan your work, work your plan, pause for refreshments and repeat.

 

The 46RE is an electronic shifted transmission,,,you definitely need a computer controller to use it.

If it’s a 46RH,,,it’s hydraulic shifted and you only need a hot wire ( and a ground) to apply the overdrive.
If it’s a two pin plug on the side,,,it’s overdrive without lockup .
A three pin plug is overdrive with lockup converter.

The 46RE is a completely electronic unit with an 8 pin plug .

Tommy

 

If I had known then what I know now I would have shopped around for the RH. I got a serious good deal on this one as a local tranny shop closed their doors a couple years back. That controller wasn't horribly expensive and it is supposed to make it shift like clockwork, kickdown, OD, you name it. I am anxious to see it work.

 

A little messing about over the weekend. I had my office over for a Christmas party Saturday so I didn't get a lot done but a little bit everyday will get her done.

This is the aluminum bracket I made to locate the sub. It is angled aluminum so I drilled and tapped a couple bolts into the sub and then chopped off a bit on the ends to bolt it into the cross braces I welded in to my seat riser. Very secure!

Then I turned my attention to the doors. I used 1/4" birch plywood to make the speaker cards out of. I sunk threaded inserts into the doors to secure the panels.

There is a mid and tweeter plus a volume knob in the left door. The right door just has speakers. They are getting weather proof cones on the back to shield them from the damp door cavity.

They are pretty enough to just varnish and leave 'em but they are getting upholstered. The speakers are mounted to the backside to keep things thin upfront. I didn't want speaker grilles per se so I came up with an idea that will make them sound nice and not be an eye sore.

The speakers are in the forward part of the door, away from the seat riser. I am trying to keep this panel as thin as possible as there is not a lot of room down there when the doors are closed. The crossovers (not shown) are mounted tot he back side of the panels and fit through holes I cut previously in the steel.

I had used a couple of SS brackets under the hood to secure the routing of the heater hoses, I added one more on the inner fender, using the same mounting bolt after I added the last heater hose. Rather than dragging the hose across my valve covers I ran it forward on the intake and then joined the other hoses headed toward the firewall. The heater hose I used has a 90 degree bend in it so it keeps the intake tidy and doesn't stick up in the air like a tent pole.

You can catch a glimpse of the Bosch sticker I added to my black painted coil. It looked like it needed it. It will probably stop working now, at least it is not a Lucas sticker.

Once I finish mucking about on these doors they need polishing inside and out and reinstalled on the truck so I can wire them up.

 

Great attention to detail, as usual.
When it comes time for final assembly, I'd install the door glass before your speaker panel..nice to have as much room as possible when maneuvering the window crank mechanism, and door glass.

 

Absolutely! It needs to come out for polishing the inner doors anyway. Just getting the fab done so it is out of my way.

 

Looks like I’ve got some catching up to do!

 

I dropped off a set of old M/T valve covers I procured off our classifieds for my 442 at the chrome shop for a coat of the shiny stuff and I picked up a piece I modified earlier and had plated. This is the rear license plate bracket for the PU that used to be a front plate holder but I repurposed it and cut a louver in it for a plate light. Turned out looking better than Henry could have imagined.

I built a strip light that fits inside the louver and attaches with the same bolts that secures this to my re-chromed, super deluxe bumper. I am not quite ready for this part but it is nice to have it back

 

Slick!

 

Must be something in the "water" that keeps you up at night thinking of this minutiae.
Looks good Bill!

 

I was going to use those license plate light bolts but it seemed too "oh I forgot to plan for that".