So how do you run your dimmer switch? Sitting here and looking at where to place things like brake pedal and gas pedal then got to thinking on my 31 tudor about a dimmer switch..... floor mount or switch mount..... I prefer the floor mount as it takes me back to being young but not sure yet of floor space. .
The dimmer in my 36 Chevy is in the original upper left toe board just like all the other cars I had prior to the newer ones that are on the stalk. On my 36 Ford, I mounted the floor mount dimmer under the dash along side the column just to clean things up.
All my builds put it on left floorboard area. Not too high up so within easy access, but farvenough out of the way for normal driving.
They are supposed to be on the floor just like the park lights are supposed to shut off when the headlights are on.
I had forgotten about that! Funny how things slip away after time and then all of a sudden it seems like it was yesterday. .
Ended up using a momentary switch from Ron Francis at the end of my turn signal stalk that engages a Volkswagen dimmer relay because I ran out of space on the floor.
Mine are changed with the headlamp switch. Pull out to 1st stop and the running lights are on. Pull to 2nd stop and the Low beams are on. Pull all the way out and High beams are on. My 29 A doesn’t have a lot of room on floorboard for switch and my foot to access it.
How do you like it? I've seen those switches but figured it's one of those things that the switch has to be close to the driver to make it not so annoying. .
On my 29 with three pedals I kind of ran out of room so I mounted it right underneath the dash to the left of the steering wheel so I can reach up and push it with my hand
I am really surprised that so far, no one in this thread likes the original ford switch on the steering wheel ! Ya'll running GM tilt columns or what? Early bodies are so narrow to start with, one more thing on the floor makes it even tighter. The early ford ignition switch, and wheel mounted light lever is quite desirable IMHO, but...carry on
Mine is a unique situation, I have a prosthetic right leg that's mostly just a kickstand. On my 36 pickup I mounted the accelerator pedal on the left side of the floor board close to where the dimmer switch would normally be. Using an existing hole in the dash I mounted a floor style dimmer switch on the left side of the dash. I even put an old Cal Custom mini barefoot cover on it.
I have used a rotary switch on a modified dash panel my model A. The steering wheel switch was repurposed to operate the turnsignals and the floor space was already crowded with the standard furniture.
I installed mine on a two position switch at the dash. One pull turns them on. The next pull turns on the brights. I like toe board switches better.
I made a small panel to the left of the steering wheel with the starter ****on, accessorie switch, light switch(all the lights including low beam), and high beam switch. Now high beam is a generous term as I still have the stock model A head lights. Phil
In my A's I have it on the toe board, below and centered between the clutch and brake pedals since there isn't much room to the left of the clutch.
I had the dimmer on the floor in the Morris Minor, and I couldn't really see any advantage to that arrangement. I tend to drive like a '60s rally driver, so I'm already stretching my two feet a bit thin a lot of the time. I like to have the dimming function literally at my fingertips, but at the same time, I really don't like the look of modern indicator stalks. If I get to implement this idea, using a motorbike speedometer drive to provide self-cancelling to a discreet underdash stalk, the dimming action would be by pushing the stalk inward towards the steering column.
I was thinking about a line lock switch on my Hurst AutoStick since it looks like a four speed allready. I'll do that or use it for a back up light switch.. I could also pick up a Cal Custom , , finned aluminum switch box and mount it on the floor next to the shifter boot. There was a company that made a real nice looking switch plate to accommodate a small group of 2-1/4" gauges, along with lights and switches. I might put a pair of 50s-60s looking, interior lights on each side of the on the sides of the box.
Learned this one from my old boss at the rod shop. To save space in an early hot rod just mount a GM foot switch in the kick panel to your left. Just smack it with the side of your foot and it works perfect. In my old Touring I mounted it behind the shifter. Since you basically sat on the floor you just smacked it with your right hand
I'm driving a Model A and wear size 14 shoes so there's no way I could use a floor mounted switch so I used a four place light switch like Bugguts.
https://www.parts-express.com/SPDT-Stomp-Box-Foot-Switch-3-Pins-Latching-6A-125V-060-077?quan***y=1 Guitar pedal foot switch. Really small. I put one in a space challenged OT car to switch the electric OD. Use a relay. Mike
The switch is floor mounted in both the A pickup and the 47 coupe. If I had 3 pedals in the A I could see where placing the switch would get difficult, just not a lot of room available, but with just the throttle and brake pedals I have somewhere to rest my left foot, and have room for the bright switch. Putting it on a switch on the dash really doesn't seem practical to me, especially with a manual trans. Between steering with one hand and changing gears with the other some how you have to be able to reach up and switch off the brights to avoid blinding oncoming traffic? I guess if the roads where you drive are mostly straight and you can steer with you knees to keep it headed straight ahead for a couple of seconds while you operate the switch, that might work. Not sure I want to be on the road headed towards you at night though.
I did this in my coupe , channeled 4 inches and recessed firewall 3 inches I kept hitting the dimmer every time I changed gears or tried to rest my left foot.
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