Technical Help me plan and build my flathead (please)?

Agreed. Nor does a 99A. All these blocks are stamped up on the flat side of the intake near the front usually.

 

Busmania:

Do you have a the main caps that came with this motor? If not, expect to line bore it unless you get really lucky with replacement caps.

 

Cost reduction. It would allow re-use of the original 221 reciprocating assembly and its matching heads.

 

yes, the caps are at the shop with the block.

 

I guess, but that's a shit ton of labor. Why not just sell a short block?

 

Good!

 

I guess I miss-read the Van Pelt website then:
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specs-85to100mid.htm

They only reference the 59A blocks as being post war, I see no indication that 1938-41 blocks were ever marked 59, so I guess I just assumed they would've been marked with the pre-war ID. My mistake.

~Peter

 

I have a 40 block in my T roadster. Usually you can tell the 39-41 24 stud blocks by the raised exhaust spigots on the side, the 59 series block are flatter to the side. The pencil test seems to vary, as I have seen 59 bellhousing blocks that pass the pencil test.. strange.. My engine was wore out when I found it but had an 8ba rotating assembly in it already. The sleeves ghad been pulled and it was bored to stock 8ba specs.. 3.187 , had stock pistons. My machinist sonic checked it and told me he would not go more than .020 over what it was currently. My engine has a 3.75 stroke 8ba crank, 8ba rods, .020 over pistons, lincoln zephyr valve springs, 1.5 chevy valves, isky 1007b cam, fidenza aluminum flywheel ,old offy heads that I milled to death and a thickstun pm7 manifold with 2 old 97's that I rebuilt. Idles at 750-800 rpm and runs great.. You may want to skip the aluminum flywheel on account of your 40 is quite a bit heavier than a roadster. I would not hesitate to run a wilder cam and aluminum heads. Use the 2 bolt timing cover and distributor. I ran an L100 cam and milled eab heads in a 51 pickup for years, that cam was awesome as well.

 

Sorry but what is the " pencil test" ?

 

Glad to hear rear world comments about the L100. I have two on the shelf and planned to use one on my next build. I'm currently running a Potvin 3/8th in a 296 c.i. motor. The engine has a Weber aluminum flywheel and I love it. Revs up real quick, but agree may not work in a heavy car.

 

A pencil will stay on the "ledge/lip" directly above the cam/timing cover. This generally indicates it an early block.