Hello I need to change a wheel cylinder and have to remove the drum. On 37 Ford I am looking for a puller large enough at big box stores as well a hobo freight and northern tool. Any suggestions on where to find one to buy or rent ? Thanks , Chris
Current thread on this regrading a ‘32. You’ll want the KR Wilson style of puller, it grabs the lip on the part of the drum behind the axle nut. PS. You won’t find it locally.
The above mentioned thread which I just also commented on. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-ford-rear-drum-removal.1281444/
Highlight and copy the url from the search bar when you're currently on the thread that you wish to share. Then jump to the thread and paste the url in the box where you type your comment. Should work since the mobile version looks just like the desktop version.
Take a blacksmith hammer and hit the hub of the drum sharply, turn it 90* then tap it and so on around until it pops loose.i know the purists will come down hard on me, you just have to know how to run a hammer. Lol
Too bad you don't show us where you are from, there may be someone around the corner who can bring theirs over.
You need a vintage Plomb Tool Company hub puller - I found one on eBay a year ago for under $100 it looks like this - the little crescent shaped piece fits on the lip of the hub just below the nut. Good luck!
I have one of these. Works just great. the guy has sold hundreds of them with good feedback. what city are you near in SW Florida?? https://www.ebay.com/itm/183765904026 An example of same type in action.
Used backwards at that. No way are you going to get one to come loose that easy either. The tool will work but you are going to be using a 24 inch breaker bar rather than a crescent wrench. That video reminded me of why I locked up all the Crescent wrenches in the high school autoshop the first week I was teaching.
If I were to do that I would that the washer off then use another nut with a plate welded on the end of it screw it on till bottoms out . Then when you apply pressure it is to the shaft and not the threads.
Are you speaking of the “Jack one side up, give the other side a smack” method? What you have there is similar to what I did for my ‘32 Dodge rearend. But I screwed. Bolt into the nut, welded it up, then tightened down and wrapped it with a 5 lb sledge.
look up a company called "Vintage Precision". They make a modern puller that is worth every damn penny. I have one and it gets the job done every time.
I think he screwed the nut off too much. I would have just loosen the nut , maybe one turn. Just my method! Bones