Hot Rods Frame boxing plates ‘66 C10

Hi all I’m looking for some frame boxing plates or other options to stiffen the frame on my ‘66 C10. I didn’t really want to go with a restomod frame brace kit just something to box the frame I think. I’ll welcome any thoughts or ideas. Thank you

 

I'd check with the Chevy pickup forums to see if anyone there has any insight on how to approach making boxing plates as there doesn't appear to be anything commercially available. Having one of those pickups I ***ure you boxing the frame would not be an easy or quick process.

 

I think he means a 1965..

 

I have worked on a whole mess of these, and not once did I box the frame.

Is there a reason why you feel that you need to box the frame on your 1965 Chevy truck?

 

hows about you measure inside the frame where you want to box, then cut some 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick flat stock and weld it in? Maybe nowdays they got an app for that **** so then just slide your phone under the truck and let your thumbs do the work. Jesus wept, we really have become 1-800 dependent..

 

Plenty stiff as is. Why add weight to a heavy truck already.

 

RJP. 3/16" or 1/4" is way over kill, I agree with Gimpy it's not needed but if you must 1/8" will work just fine.

Pat

 

Didn't @porkn****** have a C series p/u that **** and git? Don't know if it had the frame boxed but I doubt it. But as usual I could be wrong.

 

LOL I was only throwing 444 pound feet at it.

Most people here who have read a book think that boxing plates need to be heavy. They never ever need to be heavier that the frame material itself and usually a boxing plate can be lighter. Example, let us suppose that the frame material is 16 gauge (.0625) you can easily gain all the added strength you will ever need for a car ch***is by using 18 gauge (.040). That said sometimes overkill is a good thing, better safe than sorry I suppose.

Yes @51504bat my frame was not boxed. I guess I could have boxed it but why add weight? That 4000 pound brick of a truck was already heaving enough.

 

Have you checked your frame rivets and bushings?
You might get more info on the 60-66 forum on the 67-72 chevy-gmc site.

 

I am also questioning why you want to box the frame. I have had several of these pickups and never once considered boxing the frame other than maybe in the area where I c-notched it for axle clearance. I had everywhere from hot rod pickups to ones that I pulled my car hauler with a race car on and never had any issues without a boxed frame.

 

They are a beast of a hauler. I have owned several, at least one for every year they were built ('60-'66) and hauled at least one of everything with them.

I have a lady friend in KCMO that has one with a blown 402 that she has driven everyday since about '97 or '98 (when I first knew her). When we met I was driving an OT small block powered mini truck. She used to tease me about driving it up into the bed and the 3 of us (my missus, her and me) taking a road trip. LOL

 

Guys, when I'm going down a bumpy road in my '63 I can look in the rear view mirror and watch the bed twist several inches in either direction so the truth is it may be hell for stout for carrying a load but pretty ****py when it comes to twist.

One option is to find a GMC frame of the same vintage, they have an "X" support that goes almost the entire length of the frame.

 

It was specifically designed to do exactly what it is doing.

That which cannot flex, breaks, and often catastrophically.

 

I’m doing one now that will have well over 600ft pounds of torque
No boxing

 

It's doing what it's designed to do. Truck frames are designed to flex. If you want it to be a truck, leave it. If you want a sports car or Mini Truck, and are changing the suspension , go for it. I put 500,000 miles on my 66 C10, and worked it hard in all situations street raced it like a stupid teenager, drag and road, towed trailers all over the western states, off road, etc. The 65 I am building for my dad has 350,000 miles on it. I have owned 14 others. Not even the 60 3/4 ton pulled out of the blackberries at a Gold Mining Claim in Nevada City had any frame damage, and this truck was the worst, most abused example I have ever seen. Not one had a crack or frame issue.

 

The only boxing that was done on anything that every left my shop was on the ones that were set up with bags or hydraulics, and needed to go all the way to the ground.

That boxing was just the deep frame notch in the rear.

 

My former partner had a '64. Real pretty, nice strong truck. But when following behind it, the bed was so ****eyed it looked like somebody left a jack under one side of it!
Think it forgot to 'untwist'!

 

Torsional stiffness can be improved with boxing plates. Just like X member also improves torsional stiffness. What is end goal you are trying to achieve? There are always different methods to consider. Some much more practical than others.

 

People buy boxing plates already made?

I thought ya made a pattern and burned em out

 

Be safe, box the frame.
-Boyd

 

I removed some steel from mine!

 

There is a HUGE difference between a Model A frame, and a 1960-1966 C10 frame.

 

RJP…. 1/4 inch boxing plates??? Ha while going out of your way to try to look like a know it all hot rod ***** you made yourself look stupid…. but that’s just my opinion you grumpy old redneck f**k haha.

Jokster…… why would I mean ‘65?? and why wouldn’t I know what year my truck is? It’s a ‘66 as stated

The reason I am interested in boxing the frame is because my truck has some custom work with a crate engine with Corvette front end, trans and rearend with half shafts. I’ve had more twist than I’d like under acceleration and looking into options…. not trying to make it rigid. I’ve seen some already stamped box plated for some of my other trucks and would rather get some laser cut ones than spend a day torching 1/4” plates and ****ing around with it like one pissy old ******* suggested. For those with solid advice it’s appreciated

 

This board has a cutoff of 1965, and older. That's why.

Everything else that you just mentioned is not accepted here.

 

1966 GM trucks are grandfathered in because they are (nearly) identical to 65's.
We don't cater to the IRS mindset either, though I do have one in my Nova.

 

if you want to box your frame, its your call.
The longer the boxing plates are, the more difficult to fit.
You don't need solid boxing plates, sections are fine.
Plan to rerun all lines that are currently on the frame.
I wouldn't trust a laser cut full frame boxing plate -what frame did they use for the profile. You see it as a time savings, I see it as hours of final fitting
Post pics when you get it welded up.

 

1/4" plates are insane. there is no reason to use anything thicker than the factory frame. Think about the guy who comes behind you who has to cut that 1/4" mess out.

 

I agree, but the few vehicles I have had with the same rearend style, were kind of a factory “box”. I’d always ***umed it was to let the suspension do the work and eliminate the frame from the equation?
You’re pretty danged good on suspension things, thoughts on that for one like me who’s just ***uming?