Hi All, I’ve got a quick question if anybody can help, I’ve installed a scare bird front brake conversion kit on my 55 Olds and am using centric posi quiet brake caliper 142.62051. The bolt insert (stainless steel)moves in and out, is that normal or am I suppose to glue it in or replace it to a bigger size? The outside of the disc has been rubbing on the inSide of the caliber and made 2 score marks. My brakes have been smelling like metal on metal rubbing and the pedal has been fairly hard when applying the brakes. Any help would be appreciated, it’s my first conversion so am new to this. Thanks All Danny
That bushing has to slip in the caliper. The caliper fits 78 mid 90's GM Big cars and Astro vans It should work with a 11.859 diameter rotor if the bracket is right. First step is to see if anything is out of kilter as far as bracket alignment. If it is on straight and everythings look right you have two choices, cut the od of the rotor down a little bit or take a die grinder to the spots that rub inside the caliper.
Yep that’s the caliper pictured. I’ll try cutting OD of the rotor first and then see what happens. I’ve greased the bolts and pushed back the Piston so I don’t think it’s sticking. I don’t know what else it could be
Should be two rubber ring in the holes that the mounting pins go through the caliper, one will be a small one for the end of the pin and a larger one where the sleeve fits.
Ok thanks I’ll have to check that out too.. I did my reconditioned ones, maybe they didn’t add the rubber rings.
Any chance you've got the brackets on the wrong sides of the car? If you are using the correct calipers and the correct rotors, there really shouldn't be any contacting of the two (unless the kit is faulty). As mentioned above, the calipers slide on those bolts so it (the caliper) can align itself with the rotor. You should not need to grind the rotor for clearance. Not knowing what exactly it is that you are working on, are you positive the rotors and their spacers, bearing races etc are installed correctly on the spindle? (meaning "everything fully seated"). Also, the slider bolts should be lubricated so the caliper can slide easily. Pictures?
Are my brackets on the wrong side? Are the calipers on the wrong side? They are both currently on the rear side( driver side right when looking at the brake, p***enger side left when looking at brake) I don’t know what else, the first pic is the drivers side
It's always hard to read a pic but from what I can see I'd say the problem is cheap brake pads. Probably semi metallic and what spots I see look like a couple spots on the rotor from 2 hard spots or metal in the cheap brake pads. I'd change to a really good brake pad first, something like some better wagners and throw those away. Just about every conversion kit I've installed, all have had a cheap Chinese pad in the kit. .
Ok so I’ve installed it all correctly.. the outside of the rotor has rubbed inside the caliper and scored it.. I don’t know why that would have happened though. This has me beat and it’s frustrating because I can’t take the car out
I just noticed my drivers side caliper has an L on it as per the pic and my p***enger side caliper has an R. Are these on the correct side?
L is always the drivers side. They are L & R as viewed from the driver seat. Also they only work properly if the bleeder valve is on top. .
Which rotors are those? What is the outside diameter? The Scarbird kit, as far as my memory serves, is intended to be used with late 1990's C1500 rotors. Those are just under 11-5/8". If you have 12" rotors on there, and I believe that they will fit on the spindles, that would likely explain the interference. The rust-ring, outside of the pad sweep appears to be about 3/16", or so.
To me it's either the caliper slide holes are too low in the bracket, the bolt holes to the spindle are too low or the wrong rotor is being used. The caliper looks to be sitting too low on the rotor as it looks to also be too close to the hub.
Yeah I thought it was sitting low because the interference is close and once they heat up it’s going to expand. I bought the calipers and rotor that they recommended and now I’m having this issue The rotor dia is just over 11”
A GM 12" rotor also has a bigger hub area than a 11.62" rotor. That would make it closer to the caliper with the same caliper and bracket.
So you think the rotor is too big for my application? Another hamber Mr48chev mentioned to grind the OD of the rotor down
A rotor of that size, even dangerously hot, will only expand by about 0.045" measured on the outside diameter.
That appears to be a Chevy Astro caliper. Those were made in the Metric era, but to the specs of the pre-Metric GM calipers. I would measure the thickness of where the rotor is hitting, and head to the auto parts store. Ask after a 1972 Cadillac Eldorado caliper, and measure the same spot.
Grind? Absolutely not. They would need to be turned downed in a lathe. This would certainly work, and any decent machine shop can do it. Have them take it down to the edge of the rust ring.
Ok, now that I have seen the pics and understand where the contact is ... as 1oldtimer pointed out, you either have the wrong caliper, wrong rotor or the bracket has been drilled incorrectly when manufactured. I don't see why you couldn't get the rotor machined slightly but I also don't see why you should have to. Have you contacted Scarebird and shown them the pics? Surely they've seen this issue before.
I was going to get it machined tomorrow but haven’t contacted scarebird yet. I’ll contact them now and see what they say. thanks
I get that you want it back on the road as soon as possible so I don't fault you for getting the rotors machined, I'd just be wanting to know what Scarbird has to say about this ... maybe the calipers you bought are "one year only" oddballs and it's an easy fix (and possibly cheaper than machining). Anywho, good luck with your project
OK your last pic explains your problem. What is your bolt pattern on your wheels ? Almost looks like the caliper brackets are drilled for a 10-1/2 gm style rotor. If your bolt pattern is 4.5 or 4.75 it should be easy to find a 10-1/2 rotor as most early gm, ford and chrysler cars came stock with them. Yes turning the o.d. of the rotor will allow you to run yours, but I'd be curious to find the problem and how to fix it so in the event of a problem down the road you won't need a modified part to fix it. But turning the rotor down now will get you back on the road for now! .
I’ve contacted scarebird, let’s see what they come back with if at all.. It’s a 5 bolt but not sure if 4.5 or 4.75 (is that the thickness of the bolt?) but the 10.5” would solve this problem
The 4.5 or 4.75 is the bolt pattern between lug studs. As in when you buy new wheels you must know this number in order to get wheels that fit your bolt pattern. Go to Google and type it in, there will be charts to show how to measure correctly to find the true bolt pattern. ..
Your rotors look like Dodge Aspen and have a 4 1/2 BC. Aspens are a tick under 11.00” like yours and the large outer diameter of the snout (where the outer bearing is) are just like an Aspen rotor too. Even with the 4 1/2 BC most Ford wheels will not fit over that snout, the OD is too big. If the interference is slight I’d consider grinding a relief into the caliper.
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