Technical Lowering blocks

Where can i find 3 inch lowering blocks 49-54 chevy that i can use with 56 rear Axle?
I will use the orginal springs so i need them to be with ofset pin.

 

Easy enough to make with aluminium blocks. Replicate the pin with an Allen bolt into a tapped hole. You can fine tune your axle placement depending on where you put the pin and the hole for the axle pin.

Chris

 

Looks like Im going that route.

 

Speedway

 

Two inch heavy wall square steel tubing.

 

Are the spring widths of the tri 5’s the same as yours?

 

I’ve made em from steel tubing

 

Edit, yes it is. I didnt read your question right earlyer. Its a drop in Axle so to speak hence the ofset issue.

 

try Chev's of the 40's

 

There are adjustable ones from Speedway Motors that you can move the pin back and forth. I have it set at work I can get a picture of in about an hour and a half

 

The 52/52s run narrow 1 3/4' springs. If any way possible get the tri five rear springs too. Otherwise you'll probably end up making what ya need pretty simple.

 

Try looking at 4x4 sites with blocks for Jeeps to raise them.

 

I had a minute of brain fart earlyer today. I think i make them.
First i was thinkin one less thing to make but hey, it dosnt take much time.

 

Way to little drop.

 

You can drop the tri five axle is a direct bolt on to your leafs ( you need to modify the Center pin to Center the axle in the wheel well )

I have used aluminum blocks and made my own pin and hole to Center the axle

cheap n easy .



it looks weird as the tri five has a 2 1/4” spring perch
And the 49-54 chevies are 1 -1/4 or something thin and silly .

 

I typically just build my own blocks anymore out of square tubing as mentioned since it is easy to source and you can offset the pin anywhere you need it and build them any thickness you want. Thanks for reminding me that I need to build a set of blocks for my GMC since no one makes tall enough ones...lol

 

I think the Hole needs to be a bit ofset wide wise also. I think it differs about a half an inch or so. But i fix.
The springs are 1-3/4 on mine yes. So the blocks need to be 1-3/4 right.

 

Safety Tip:
Make sure that you re-torque your U-Bolts after the first few thousand miles. Torqueing a 1/2" U-Bolt to 90 ft-lbs can generate up to 14,000 lbs of clamp force, per leg. That is 56,000 lbs of force compressing your blocks, spring pack, bolt saddles, etc together. In other words, expect stuff to change dimensions under that loading and the u-bolts can loosen quickly after the initial torque.

 

Use a 2x3 block drill one hole on the bottom and tap or bolt and nut a Allen at the top. You will need to off set the center home though because the inclosed drive rearend is off set compared to the open drive line. I think it’s like 1.5 off set if I remember correctly

 

I think its about 1.5 ofset yes. Havent messured yet but sounds about right

 

Stick o brinn in sweden got them.
https://stickobrinn.se/?s=Sänkblock&post_type=product&dgwt_wcas=1

 

Yes, the rear spring width is the same. We put a 56 Chevy rear end in my son's 1950 Chevy Fastback. We used a set of Posies rear springs with the offset to run a later rear end.

 

Nästan. Fel u-boltar. Dessa är för orginalaxel.

 

Ok, just wondering wich blocks they used on my Chevy, they are 3 inch with a 55 or 56 axle with original leafsprings

 

No idea what you guy’s just said.

 

I am here to tell ya'....

That sh1t does happen!

God Bless
Bill
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ar-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/


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