Crazy thought...I like the way my '29 radiator fits in the car, and I was thinking about modifying it to work with my flathead. I could put a "T" in the return at the top and feed both hoses into the center at the top, but still trying to figure out what to do with the bottom. Maybe get another A radiator and cut that part off and braze it on to the existing radiator? Or, I could change the angle of the lower connection and use a T or Y connector? Has anyone ever seen this done? Issues? Will the A radiator provide enough cooling for a flathead? Cheers!
I’ve seen sbc’s run a stock A radiator so it should cool a flathead fine. I’ve seen other newer radiators T’d off to cool a flathead but never an older radiator such as an A. I’m sure it’s been done but those lower hoses sure get tight for room quick I’d imagine
no thats never been tried, ever..... oh wait , yes I think it has! but the flathead needs a decent radiator, an original and probably part blocked A radiator wont cut it, hot days will be a problem. At least have it properly cleaned and checked, maybe a new core or buy one of the many bolt in replacements that are set up for what you want.
I've wondered the same thing. I have a couple old flathead radiators, both have spouts/necks I could move over onto a Model A radiator but don't have any experience building radiators or brazing fittings. Never hurts to try I guess!
I've seen a V8 hooked up to a stock Model A radiator using a Y fitting at the top and a T at the bottom. No idea how well it really worked, but it has been done.
I think soldering with common 50/50 solder is the common way radiators are assembled. Not sure I'd want to try brazing.
Seems like a lot of work on a questionable outcome. Especially on a used stock A radiator. Flathead cooling can be fussy. Small blocks are alot easier to cool. Any new bends in the lower outlets will cause flow issues. I would consider retrofitting more cores in a stock frame before doing what you propose.
How far are you going to set the engine back, a Model A is pretty small. I had to notch the firewall on my 30 about 1 1/2" at the bottom of the firewall and have a 4' lower hose. It's going to take some room to put the T on the bottom of the water pumps which will require a set back on the engine. Several companies make a radiator for a flathead in a Model A that will let you use the stock radiator shell. My avatar is a 28 I built in the early 90's with a flathead, don't remember whose radiator I used in it but have a Brassworks in the 30.
Well like your signature says, "You're never too old to learn something stupid" That's what I meant, up too late last night!
T's and elbows would potentially work. The shape of the bottom tank of the stock A radiator makes it almost impossible to add another water neck.
It would take some substantial modifications for sure. I've been looking for aftermarket radiator options. I really don't want an aluminum radiator, but the leadtime for a Brassworks unit is really, really, REALLY long. May get an aluminum one until I can get the Brassworks one done...
Mine is going to be tight. I've got an 8BA with 8RT pumps, but it's a dual belt setup. Front belt drivesthe fan, back belt drives the pumps and generator. If I have to cut the firewall, so be it, but I want to run a hood.
I ran a stock 1930 model A radiator with a Ford 289 this year. It was a problem on hot days when the car was not moving. I am waiting for my new radiator to arrive.
I ran a Y fitting on the top of my 289 in flathead(3 5/16 + .030 x 4 1/8) in my 47 Ford Prefect(4 dr Anglia) that ran 14.50’s at 93-94 mph at the track but was run daily on the hot summer streets of S.Texas. Bought a heavy duty industrial radiator(used) for a forklift in an industrial park in Corpus Christi,Tx for $100. I drove that car over 100 mph at least 50-60 times on the local freeways.
My coupe is running an 8BA with the 8RT water pumps too but I had the front pulley machined off on the crank pulley and I'm running a 37 fan on the generator. When I mocked the car up I used an alternator and had an early pulley bored to fit the alternator shaft, that allows you to move the engine forward several inches. My flathead is an 8BA with the early heads, just have to plug two 1/4" water passages to use them, you can see the plugs at the front of the engine . I run a full hood and a 32 grill shell.
Spent some time on the phone with Kim at US Radiator today. Won't be cheap, but the leadtime is much faster than Brassworks...Just need to get some measurements and then bite the bullet...
I run a hopped up OHV Banger B in a '31 A Victoria. It makes a little over 76 HP to the rear wheels. The new 2 row 10 fin per inch Brassworks A radiator wouldn't cool it except on a cold day. The 3 row 10 fin per inch does just fine.
I have a 27 t roadster with a built flathead v8. I took a 29 upper tank and a 35 lower tank to my local radiator guy, gave hin the overall hieght I wanted. He built a five row core brass radiator out of all that for around 850 bucks. This was a few years ago, so I'm sure the price of cores is up. Anyhow, original ford parts with a new core. Looks good, feels good.
Cadillac cooled a 346 CI flathead like this: I don't see why you can't solder on a 2nd pickup for the bottom.
The simple way is to solder 2 bungs in each tank. That is the 10 cent cure for a 10 cent problem. You still have to address the issue of pressurized V non-pressurized radiator. What we used to do it put a filler for a radiator cap and if we did not change the core (which happened) and run a low pressure cap. You do not "braze" a radiator, you sweat it together with solder. You could build a manifold with 2 outlets for the top and the bottom. No, problem at all. It looks kind of hokey (ask me how I know) but it can be done. You still have to address the pressurized cooling system v non pressurized. Flathead V8s do not like non-pressurized.
I just received my radiator today from US Radiator. Took about three weeks from when i ordered it. They did a great job building the radiator. I should have told them not to drill the two holes where it bolts to the frame. I need to shift the radiator about 1/2" away from the fan. Check your clearance to your fan. Check the core thickness of the old and new old so you don't have clearance problems.
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