That is the least expensive part of the operation..... Looks like an early '28 pan, if the block is same, it may have a 5 bearing cam. Best, J
I figured it was the new Burtz block. Interested about what I think is Glyptal paint under the side cover area. I think it’d be a good idea or was it done because of the application. The valves look interesting to me also. Now that I have 2 Model B engines and working on getting a 3rd, I’m fully invested in them and have a lot to learn. I’ll be taking them apart and plan on building them myself. It’ll be awhile though, I’m currently 3 weeks post rotator cuff surgery. Plus the first thing I’ve got to do to the truck is get the brakes converted to hydraulic, which I have everything I need to do so. The shoulder kind of stopped me in my tracks.
Yes, the painting of the inside surfaces does help with oil return to the pan, is a good idea. Those are not valves, those inserts are to help guide pushrods for an overhead conversion. Priorities, brakes are a good thing, it all comes together eventually. John
I made the tool using a 0.625 reamer ( size of Chrysler lifter ) and had the end precision ground to 0.593 stock lifter bore size to make a pilot reamer and ream the blocks on a Mill
If you find a source for billet cam blanks let us know I have searched high and low for the last few years very hard to find
No build thread. It's a Burtz block that I polished the outside of the casting, bored it .060" over, Racetec pistons set up for 9.5:1 compression ratio, Rutherford OHV head, Brierly M-36 cam, Chrysler lifters, John Nielson oil pump. The build progress has been chronicled on the Banger meet threads since Feb of last year. Here is a link to the posts I've made about it: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search/404119932/ Some pictures I may not have already posted: .
More on the Head…. Dan Price says it’s a Brumfield and not a Police head. Dan says the cast Bs are different. With my initial research I had thought the Bs were different as well but the pictures and my eyes may not make them what they appear to be. I also could not find a picture of a Brumfield with a B on it either. That’s is why I initially inquired. I don’t mind if it’s a Police head or Brumfield I just would like to learn what I can. Also there’s a small 27 cast near the #4 spark plug. What do you think?
Mine definitely does not look like yours. Looking closer at the head on my engine and the bare head, the Bs cast into the heads are different and are placed differently.
Probably the only way to be sure is to pull the head and measure chamber volume I do agree the plugs are wrong size for a Brumfield but the chamber is what matters not the casting J
I have two Brumfield heads, one I bought from Steve Becker that has the standard A plugs and the one pictured that I ordered directly from Larry with 14mm plugs.
Thanks Denis, I recall hearing a story about Larry making a model with the big plugs but not sure. John
from the Brumfield web page, 14mm, 18mm and 7/8" http://www.modelatrader.com/brumfield/brumfield.html For those enthusiasts with older motors, we offer the Regular Brumfield Head at 5.2 to 1 compression ratio for $239.00. May be milled to 5.9 to 1 at a later date. Available in 7/8", 14mm, and 18mm. Made in U.S. A. Sold since 1986 all over the United States and many foreign countries. Thousands of satisfied customers can't be wrong! Understanding the Brumfield High Compression Heads Learn how the Regular Brumfield Head can improve the performance of your Model "A." Wondering how the Brumfield Regular and Super Heads compare? Read Marshall Daut's article, "Brumfield vs. Brumfield," and find out! 7 to 1 compression ratio - $289.00 6.5 to 1 compression ratio - $275.00 Custom cast in any compression ratio desired $339.00 (Insert bearings recommended). Available in 7/8", 14mm, and 18mm Same appearance and material as the Regular Brumfield Head. Smooth castings, made in U.S.A. of Class 30 gray cast iron (30,000 to 35,000 p.s.i. tensile strength). "Quality machined by men who specialize in aircraft machine work" E-mail: LBrumfield@webtv.net Heads shipped UPS freight collect, COD, or prepaid. Texas residents add 8.25% state sales tax.
50 years of playing with this stuff. And knowing that that is indeed a Parker casting and that George never made any A/B Fronty style side drives.
Hello . Is there a big Different between a Two Blade Fan and A Four Blade Fan on a Stock Four Banger?
I swapped mine from a two-blade to a four blade and I think all it did was make more noise. It never got hot before I was just preparing for the summer
I use the cast, two blade fan on all my applications and believe that they move more air than the 4 blade sheet metal fans. They are available from your favorite Model A parts suppliers.
If the 2-blades are so "hot", I wonder why the manufacturers don't all go to them. Henry probably saved 20 cents a blade on them and you guys with the bangers turn them a few RPMs than what they were designed for.
So will a cracked 4 blade, stamped, sheet metal fan...regardless of manufacture of origin. I guess I should have bolded "cast two blade" That's why I stated "cast two blade". They make some cheesy plastic, six blade, aftermarket ones too. But in my experience, the two blade, cast ones move more air. I guess, when the weather warms up and I'm bored, I'll set up a capture box and velometer and measure some airflows for different fans and still conclude that the only thing that will keep the engine cool is a three row radiator...Henry saved dollars instead of cents in the radiator department.
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