I removed the fenders and running boards and started working on the trans shifter cable. I was wondering if anyone has a tilt cable and how they are shifting there trans. I was hopeing to shift it with a column shift so I had nothing in the center of the floor. If you have any pictures please post them. I know they sell an electric shifter that can be dash mounted but they are 1200.00.
This is a problem that also am facing. My thoughts are any and all control cables have to go around (or at least near) your hinge point. In my case this will be wiring harness, E-brake cable, hydraulic brake lines, transmission shifter, heater and AC hoses, and throttle cable. I will explore industrial cable tray to avoid a mess at the hinge point. www.mcmaster.com/cable-trays/low-vibration-snap-together-open-cable-and-hose-carriers/
that's what mine does... cable shifted 4L60E. cable comes forward along the frame and then takes a 180 near the hinge point. Prolly more like a 130-140 in reality, but then back to the floor shifter....
i have the throttle cable in place and it works but since I was trying to use the steering column it seems like i am trying to bend the shifter cable I little to hard maybe I will need to spend more time on thinking. Also was thinking of trying to install a bellcrank near the steering column and then that should make the cable come down about a quarter turn
Have a look at outboard motor control cables. Available in some very long lengths and quite flexible.
Its been awhile since i have been on here so here are some Pics. I took the cab to get media blasted till I got done doing bodywork it was to cold to paint my firewall so I took it to a body shop they painted the inside and underneith and the firewall. I stripped my dash to bare medal welded holes and did bodywork and paint. There were 19 holes in the dash that had been drilled in over the years who knows what for.
Here are a few more pics. Also removed the cab today the next step is to get the frame sandbblasted and painted but I may have to wait till spring this morning it 5 degrees plus a pretty good wind blowing so the chill factor was below zero that only happens 1 or 2 times a year around here
Did not get to that but the body shop said they could fix it. I have some Ideas right now the body shop did what they had time for. At least the bare metal is painted so it will not rust. After I got it blasted my job went to 12 hours a day 6 days a week so not much got done on the truck
I haven't been on here for a while but Im making so progress back in October I got my frame sandblasted then I primed and painted it here are some pics
For the past month and a half I have been****embling the frame and drive train I will add a bunch of pictures in the next couple days
It sounds like you are still going forward with your build & that's the main thing. Having your frame painted means this will be the final time going together. Well I got a problem, I just lost a year on my 1939 Chevy COE project. I expected to have it in the upholstery shop by now, but I got burned by a builder for over $15,000 & he did aprox. two weeks worth of work in one full year. My truck is now back in my garage. I can't physically finish the truck, but I have found another builder to get it done, but I'm waiting for a space in his shop. So in the mean time, I have gotten all my chrome done. I just found my tail lights I have been searching for for over 6/7 years. I just yesterday got the rear-end narrowed, & I have ordered the trans that will be going in it. Right now I'm just purchasing things that I know I'll be needing for the build. If anyone in the Grants Pass Or. area needs work on a project, stay away from Webber"s Fab. John is not only a thief, he will lie through the hole scam...
Sorry to here that. I cannot find anyone who wants to do the body work on the cab I keep thinking I got a body guy lined up and when the time comes they want me to wait longer. I was at a car show and asked a guy who painted his car he said it was a friend of his he gave me the number and all I get is an answering machine. People just dont like to paint old cars. All the body shops tell me they dont make any money So im still searching. My friend told me about another guy that guy works by the job he told me bring the cab and 5000.00 and I will let you know when I need more. My cab has some dents but no rust so that was a little scary He would not give me a total price on the cab. I can do some of it but not everything do to my skill level. I have been out of work for 2 and a half months But the president says its the lowest unemployment since 1969 REALLY! I got several neighbors that are laid off also. I drove around earlier this week stopped at several places nobody's hiring until late march or April
If you want to improve your body & paint skill level, go on you-tube & start watching how it's done. It's not easy & it get's expensive just for the tools & material it takes just to get started. Yo will probably waste more sandpaper & bondo than you think. But you-tube is the best place to start. You will get a good idea what tools you will need & how to use them to get the best results. But it takes a lot of time & a lot of bondo, especially for a beginner. $5000 don't go far when it comes to man hours & materials, just to get the body ready for primer. They are making paint now a day that they say you can't mess-up with. But you will find that all the tools & material it takes to do the job will set you back quite a bit, just doing it your self. But lots of you-tube, how to videos will be a real good start. Then put a few hundred bucks in your pocket & go get some tools & material & pick a fender or some place to get your first lesson. I picked the roof on my cab, it's a tilt cab truck, so that was the easiest place for me to start. I wasted a lot more sand paper & bondo than it took, & it still probably need a-lot more hours, but it looks good in primer. I didn't realize what it takes to do it right...
Yes I agree that you can use up 5000 pretty fast but my thoughts are that someone that dose body work every day should have some Idea of what it should cost. Like my job is a road mechanic and welder and if you ask me about how many hours would it be to fabricate and weld something Im usually pretty close to it. Well for now I have some of it done the bottom of the cab is painted also the firewall, and inside of the cab and the dash. I know some of the inside will have to be repainted in the roof area and back of cab but it wont rust for now. My friend has a pretty big garage and has his own paint guy who is retired the guy does a real nice job but he will never get all my friends cars painted . My friend has a 60 x 80 garage full of projects.
good luck with finding a shop to do the finish body work and paint.. That was one of my bigger challenges. Multiple shops said "write us a check for 20K, we'll work on your truck til we burn thru that, then push it aside"... Yeah, that wasn't be nor did I have a bottomless wallet.... Finally found a local shop that said 10k and stuck to the price and mostly the schedule.. The work is not concourse level, but very respectable..
Now a-day $10,000 would be expected as good start from any shop. In most shops, that would maybe get you to the stage were you start talking about paint color & what kind of paint, LOL. Just the cost of paint & material to lay it can Easley go up to a couple thousand, & if you cut corners, it won't last.. You probably are very happy to have gotten your truck done for that price. Just give it a couple years & prices will jump again. First the material/paint, than the labor, than the shops profit. Hell, Just this last Monday I got my 1 ton full floater rear axle housing narrowed 4" on each side, + new axles. for $2,000 + Calif. tax. It was done in 6 hours. New axles come premade with 12" long splines. So the shop only had to cut them down to size. First I had another shop take the rear-end apart to give the axle shop a empty housing. So once it is back to gather & ready to go back under the frame, I will probably have close to 3 grand into narrowing my rear-end. & that's with out paint, LOL...
Shops are finding that most customers expect more work than they are willing to pay for. The older the truck is, the more hidden problems show-up later in the work. Usually ounce you take the old paint off, you find more problems than was expected. So the time & labor keeps changing. That's why a-lot of shops don't want to do the older cars/trucks. If they are a good respectable shop, they don't want to cut corners for a customer because they won't put out work that makes them look bad later. You are real good with metal, So if you have it stripped down with all the metal work done, 5 G's may go a long ways, but I would expect another 5 before it was painted & out the doors of a body shop. Depending on the type of paint you want? You seem to have more skills than you think. You could do it all for that same $5,000...
in the 80s I had a rear and axles narrowed for 150 dollars I still have that car. I took a car to get painted to restoration shop about 10 years ago. This was a show winning car but had an old lacquer Paint job on it. They did give me a price of 120,000.00 to paint it . I said to the guy I dont want to restore it again I just want it painted. He said I understand thats price is just to paint it. I wanted to say that the price above is one hundred twenty thousand for paint
Here’s a picture of a little job on my truck that you think would be a simple thing. Its not a big job but something that’s takes longer than you would think. I bought the intake and carburetor from summit it came with the fuel tube that goes to both float bowls and its in direct line with the vacuum advance so something will have to move.
Turn your distributor 180 degrees, (or whereever it fits) re-establish #1 wire position, place the wires on the cap in firing order. Finish by checking timing. Easy Peasy, done it a hundred times!!
Im not sure what im doing with that but I dont think it will be to bad. Another problem that I have is the fuel sender which I think I have a solution for. Im sure everyone has heard of using s-10 frame on hot rods. Well when i finally found a good frame from a pickup I realized the pickup fuel tank would hit the trans. After some research on another forum I found that on hot rods they use a s-10 pickup frame but use a s-10 blazer tank in the rear. Ok that was simple enough. Then I realized that the s-10 fuel pump put out to much pressure for my engine ok so I installed an external fuel pump. I went to purchase the gauges for the truck so I could install all the sending units. And I found that the s-10 sending unit for the fuel tank is different ohms. The only thing I can think of doing is put a hole in the top of the tank for the new sending unit and hope the body clears it. im going to try and wait till i get the body to do that. Its a snow ball affect Just another job that takes more time than expected.
Every job takes far longer than expected, welcome to hot Redding LOL I’m about 7 or 8 years into my COE and finally starting to think I’m actually getting somewhere. Just keep on going, it will all be worth it in the end.
I was wondering what seats you other guys used in you trucks I thought maybe bucket seats but than I thought maybe a bench since my truck will only have a front seat. My other coe has a bench seat and it has paid off several times when my daughter wanted to go to a show with me and my wife. Several people said the s 10 bench seat. works well in the chevys like i have. Any other suggestions?
I wanted a military look so I fabbed my own out of sheet aluminum and lots of rivets. Upholstery is urethane foam from Ebay and the covering is a canvas tarp. My cab is narrower than most, and I also have a 14" wide console/plenum between the seats that feeds air back to the radiator. With only a 19" wide space, I couldn't find any automotive seat narrow enough! Triumph Spitfire are the narrowest I've found at 20".
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