Hi - I am trying to get my new gears set up in the quick change with the original A bells and have arrived at this pattern (after quite a few tries !) My backlash is around 0.008" and both carrier preload and pinion preload is 20 in lbs .I know there are folk on here that have done it before and will be more knowledgeable than me ,could anyone give me some direction on which way to go now? pinion out?,less backlash?
I’ve set up 4 rears over a 35 year span. But can tell you the information in a Motors manual never let me down. My point is a manual (probably rear end set up manuals out there) is a reference you can get immediate help with, much quicker than posting up pics, waiting for a reply, etc. I know, no real help, just advice from a guy who this spring will spend a few weekends doing it as well
I've done many quick change rears[frankland,halibrand,winters etc]and never ran into one where the pinion depth can be changed??The loaded pinion goes where the case and retainer hold it and all adjustments get made moving the ring gear carrier back and forth-AFTER the carrier bearing preload is set with the ring off the carrier. What brand of QC are you working on
smallest rears I did were the V-8 rears that still used a pinion support-the model rears don't used a support,does that allow for the pinion depth to be changed? P.S. I did the V-8 rears back when a peasant could still afford them!!!LOL
Hi Oldtom69,I have a Pacific Quick change , but for an A axle with the torque tube .The pinion fits on a small shaft that is then held by two taper bearings ,one fits on to the pinion then the other fits on after it is fed into the casing - a large nut sets the pinion drag and holds it in place with a lock nut ,you can alter the depth of the pinion by stripping it all down, removing the front bearing and altering a shim that is fitted in front of it. I am aware of the importance of getting it all set up correctly but being in Scotland it is difficult to get "motor books or manuals" I couldn`t even buy gear marking compound so resorted to artists oil paint !
Where your arrow is pointing that says "shim goes here", I would remove a shim there and see what it does to the pattern. It appears that the pinion is too deep (too close to the carrier), but not by a whole lot. If you have more than one shim, take one out. If you have just one shim, you may need a thinner shim, but try taking it out first. For all we know, gear marking compound may be oil paint. Now that you have mentioned it, it does seem like that's what it is.
trike - One problem, you have WAY too much paste on the gear teeth. Should be a thin coat, no 1/8" thick glob, areas at all. Should be just a thin, just...fully coated, thin coat. Then try the rotation with the pinion again. Mike
Mike VW beat me to it- way too much marking paste- wipe it all off. Put a tiny amount in a spray can cap, and use a small acid brush stir it around, then apply to the gear teeth. The brush bristles only need a light coating on them before you apply it to the gear teeth. Apply to the ring gear teeth and let the pinion mark the contact pattern in the paste. The paste only needs to be a slight haze prior to checking contact. I find it easier to rotate the ring gear while putting drag on the pinion to get a pattern.
I know that this applies to the Halibrand version of QC but it may have some info that would help. I got it from a HAMB member. Anyway here's the link . https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1RYHCz45FBrCiUWavyPUuz56wHnecrNdx Hope this helps. BTW find it interesting that there are artists in Scotland but no mechanics or fitter /machinists to supply you with marking dye.
As mentioned above the pinion is too far in. If you don't have shims between the pinion gear and the bearing you will need to machine the shoulder on the pinion to allow it to move out.
Here is the manual combined for direct download for the champ and also a copy of a R and C article for a 201 and the winter's catalogue, with the back part of this catalog having assembly for their quick change center sections.
Hi all .thank you for the words of help -I only put on the same amount of paint as every youtube video I watched but appreciate that it could be thinner. I did think that the pinion is too far in as I started with it too far out and worked from there. This morning I have been out and (with much thinner paint) machined 0.010" from my shim( I only use 1 solid shim and machine it to size) I appreciate that my backlash will now be more so will have to move a gasket from one side to the other to get it back to where it should be but are these more acceptable witness marks?
Looks better to me, but now you might have too little marking compound on it. Reset the backlash, and check again. You're close.
Hi ,I think I am close -those were the ghost marks on the non painted gears (although I did cut right back on the amount I brushed on) I have closed up the backlash now to 0.006 (ish)-it is difficult to measure 100% successfully on these axles as the only place to check is on the back quick change gear shaft that has the pinion on it ,anywhere else you are also involving the quick change gears backlash too. It turns smoothly by hand when all assembled without any unusual noises or grinding so I am gonna call it done. When you do this to an A axle you have to put a vent in so I welded in a 3/4" bung that I can get a small camera down ( and suck old oil out of) .I can do a couple of miles and check whats happening inside that way. Thank you everyone that chipped in with advice- thats what the HAMB is all about !
I don't have a lot of experience with 101s. But, on 201s & 301s, I shoot for zero to .002" backlash. You would be surprised at the reduction in gear noise. Never had a problem running one this tight. You are right about the only way to check is at the pinion. You can fab up a little flag to put an indicator on. But, I find that the breakaway torque usually masks the reading. If you can just barely feel that there is clearance, it is just right.
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