Hello, just picked up this "car" and could use some experienced input and identification help. I'm new to these style of hot rods but always wanted one. It's built on what looks like a factory built frame but has some unsatisfactory additions in my opinion. Titled as a 1978 assembled. Built in Michigan as the vin starts with Mich. Took me a couple weeks to get it running and moving, still working on making it stop safely. Took it around the block this weekend for a shakedown run and found some issues. First things first, what is the proper term to call this? Is it a t-bucket? Is it a roadster? The body is fiberglass and appears to mimic a 27? It's got a 1966 Ford 289 with a C4 trans. Has a Ford 9" but no clue on the year. Previous owner didn't have any info other than he bought it in the 80's and enjoyed it. Currently showing 15k miles. Any idea what these hubs and front brakes are from?
Second issue is rust in the tank. As far as I know it wasn't ran in at least 5 years. It looks like the tank was the installed before the body or maybe the interior so no easy way to remove it and clean it out. Any tips? It has a glass filter on it now but it plugs in 10 minutes. And then kills the battery (New optima) trying to get the mechanical pump to refill the carb after cleaning the filter.
I'll be adding to this post so feel free to add any input on this car. I'm putting together a folder with information so if you can identify something on it let me know. So far I can identify most of the drivetrain based on Ford part numbers but I would like to know about the other parts used. It looks like someone put some money into it when building based on the amount of chrome plating. The oil pan, alternator, engine brackets and other pieces including the rear axle are factory Ford parts that have been chromed.
Any idea what these hubs and front brakes are from? The spindles are '42-'48 Ford. The brakes look to be aftermarket kits with GM calipers. The rotors are ?????
It's a roadster ,a T bucket has no turtle deck. I would expect the rotors to be GM with adapters to fit bearings to Ford spindle.
This is what I would call it too. I don't consider any 26/27 T roadster to be a "T bucket", to me that only refers to the earlier T roadster bodies on an altered wheelbase. I'd be concerned with that front end setup, the steering link in front of the axle is not a great idea (although people do it), read up on Ackerman angle/Ackerman principle, I think the location of the steering tie rod ends is going to give you tire scrub issues. I personally am not a huge fan of the axle pushed out a foot in front of the radiator either, although that's a personal taste thing. The old chromed I beam axle/spindles and chromed leaf spring is pretty cool though. I like the cast aluminum headlight stands too. There's some neat pieces here, but I think you're on the right track giving the car a once-over and redoing some things.
The front tie rods aren't my favorite either but I think with as low as it is I'm stuck with how it was built. I'm not a fan of the friction shocks but again I think I'm stuck on this car. Onto the brakes, I've seen gm calipers used but these don't look like the ones I'm accustomed too. If I was to go to the auto parts store what make and model do you think these are from? They appear to be dual piston but opposed? I'm guessing it was something off the shelf late 70s 80s since the bracket looks decent
Those front brakes look like mine. As far as I know they are tpye3 VW calipers. The rotors I don't know, mine were cracked so I replaced my front brakes.
Very cool....if you have never owned or driven one before be prepared for a whole lot of fun. I would just get the car running and drivable and then go from there. Unless something is broken or totally unsafe just make needed repairs take it out drive the hell out of it then make the changes that you think will work better for you, chances are there will be alot less what you or others think is not going to work correctly. I bet you will be able to except and look past some of its construction ideas and components used from back in the days when it was built, as long as it's safe, meaning something that's just not going to come apart on you and hurt you or others....I'm just saying this because once you drive it your going to not get out of it...that's another thing , if your looking for comfort these cars are usually not going to offer that, even though the 26/27 T-roadsters are going to be more so than the earlier T-buckets. But all of this depends on what the owners personal body design and tolerances are. I had one, a steel 27 -T body over a double tube frame , car was originally built and was registered as a 1974 ford. Engine was a 427 Ford from a galaxy, 4 cross bolt mains, duel 4's and a c6 ..the engine had been machined and built in California by Holman and Moody ,came with all the paper work from them, the car was fast and fun and I drove the wheels of it , sadly when I had made the deal to get the car the guy , a friend of mine , wanted to keep the engine or wanted another $2500 for just the engine and after trying to come up with the cash couldn't do it ...so after being able to have some fun with it for awhile I had to give the engine back and I then put a 390 in it .....still had alot of fun and it still would put the front tires in the air ,this was in about 1982/83 , and when ever the Oregon rains would let up it was my work car, it had a original type top that folded up and down ,so the cool mornings I would have the top up and the lower half of the windshield tilted slightly to let the warm air from the engine flow inside and drive the 40 miles to work then top down and usually 50 ,60 or so miles back home . So what ever approach you take its yours to do what you choose ,my advice or thoughts would be to not over think it ....I've done it , and you usually get nowhere.... Do what you need to do ,try it out...make notes ,get ideas on what components to change out often just for the reason being better availability when needing replacement, brake components etc , then make it yours and drive the hell out of it. You will notice mine had a short cowl on it , I talked to the original builder a couple years ago ,reason for that was the frame they used was a old dragster frame that had been shortened and when they tried to fit the body and engine on to the frame the only way it would fit was by removing some of the cowl ...but with the slightly angled steering column it wasn't to bad . One last thing if ever you get caught in a rain storm be aware of the amounts of water that's going to be coming off the front tires ,hitting you in the face ,especially when turning left. Anyways sorry for rambling....just thinking of the fun your going to have and what I once had.
Thanks guys, other than 1/2 a block at 5mph I've never driven it or anything like it. After researching the possibility of VW front brakes I found pictures of super bell super stopper kit that uses the same hubs I have too, so probably what they are. Still working on the rear brakes. Need wheel cylinders I think. When I got it it had a single cylinder master cylinder, no e-brake, and the proportioning valve was seized up. The brake pedal assembly was homemade and very stiff without the mc attached so I put on a speedway kit with the dual mc and new proportioning valve along with new residual valves. I then realized the rear rubber hose was plugged solid and hard as rock. Took me awhile sorting through every brake hose at the auto parts store to find one that would work. (2005 Chevy Silverado). Got the brakes bled but I think the wheel cylinders are stuck. One wants to lock up and the other doesn't want to apply pressure. Any tips on identity of this rear axle? Might help with getting the correct wheel cylinders...... Brakes look new so maybe they didn't work in years?
Btw thanks for the he pic rudestude, I had a stock model a in my avatar picture for a few years but really wanted a hot rod. I live on dirt roads so didn't want something show car ish, I looked at a bunch and this one, like yours caught my eye. I'm not the biggest fan of the 80's billet and chrome look but it's a start and I sold my model a for about the same money. It's like Christmas morning and being told you can't play with it yet!
That rearend cover with the two dimples and the drain plug look like 9" Ford to me, this thread might help narrow it down further https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/9-ford-rear-identification.1220515/ But I'm no expert here so I wouldn't be surprised if I was wrong.
Thanks, I'm not really concerned what it came out of other than the ability to get parts. Nowadays the parts guys just stare at you if you don't know the year make and model so the computer can tell them what to order. I'm sure it's an older 9"Ford. I removed the wheel cylinders this Evening and will try to match some up Friday at the parts store. It doesn't have a posi or traction lock, don't know if that's a bad thing though on such a light car, might be a handful already! I did contact Pete and Jake's about the front brakes, was very surprised someone actually answered the phone and knew exactly what I had based on the description. I guess they did offer a kit in the 70s that used type 3 VW brakes and a solid rotor. The front hubs are also from them. They still offer replacement parts if needed. Good to know! The guy even gave me recommendations on the best pads to use. I'll be a future customer for sure just based on customer support.
Due to the fact that ford offered so many variations in there 8" and 9" rear ends and alot of interchange between the years ....it can be kind of hard to get parts by the book at the parts store now days if the computer kind find it the guys behind the counter definitely can't help you, there are a few that can but that's rare. So what I do is just measure everything, baking plate size ,drum size, bore size of your wheel cylinders gather the parts numbers and go to a parts house and look up the parts by spec and the numbers ...just not to close to there lunch or break time ,that passes them off. I just went through that for the rear end that I'm building for my Avitar picture Studebaker because when I went to the parts house they passed it off to 3 different guys and I still went home with nothing....but it is a little different than your normal axle...it started as a 60's 1/2 ton gmc 6 lug Dana 60 and being 6 lug and I don't like the bearing set up they have the only thing that's Dana 60 now is the center section of the housing ,the cover and gears ...then new tubes with new machined torino type 9" axle ends ,bearing cups, 9" ford 11'x2 1/4' backing plates and drums , housing was narrowed slightly ,custom made racing 35spline 9"type axles in fact just got them couple weeks ago sure look pretty hate to put them where you can't see them..then a spool and 4 10 gears ...so I guess I can see where the parts kids got confused. I have been going through some of my hot rod magazine collection rod action and all the others I'm in the mid 70's thru late 80's now if I run across any 26/27 t stuff I will post it for you or if there's any article or particular issue you know of let me know and I can see what I can find my collection actually goes from around 51 to mid 90's mostly I know I have some on just t-buckets and t roadsters. I have a t project myself but haven't done anything for a few years now . Just keep thinking Christmas is just around dthe corner.
Thanks! Got the brakes sorted out. Next issue is very rusty fuel tank. 1/2 of debris at bottom. I previously added a good filter system but it was still allowing rust powder for lack of a better term through it and ended plugging my new carb within 10 min of running. Of coarse the interior was built in after the tank was installed so had to destroy the interior to pull the tank. Currently looking for something aluminum that will work with the center fill. Any guesses what the old tank was from? Somebody crudely modified the fill tube. It leaked and so did the sending unit. Unfortunately the way the car was built there was no way to get to it.
Good to here you got the brakes fixed...I would check with speedway motors the have tanks for there 27 t roadster kits This one here is a 5gal. 8"x24" they have 10gal. 10"x30" they also have them with sending units they have others also, early vw bus tanks were used in them also, but they are hard to find now, I have also seen the plastic tanks for that set up .
The tank is British. Looks real similar to the Triumph TR3? tanks I have. Not exact but I am sure it came out of something similar. Look here MG, Triumph, Austin Healey, Jaguar Parts & Accessories | Moss Motors
The company Jaz also makes fuel tanks and fuel cells some rectangular that might work for you. Here is website: https://www.jazproducts.com/
Thanks for the input. I ordered a tank from spun aluminum tanks that looks like it will work great. Now just more waiting
Brakes are VW calipers and Super Bell hubs with rotors, if memory is right If your rotors are bad, I have a pair of NOS. PM me if you’re interested. It looks like from the pics that you might have clearance enough to switch sides with the spindles, heat and bend the arms to clear the dropped axle, so the tierod passes through the wishbones and restore the Ackerman angles. If you don’t want to kill the chrome on those spindles, use a stock set with new kingpins. Hard to positively say with just the pics. Bill
need a set of those disks. Mine are not great Magnum axles sold a kit much like it also . I have a thread on the set up I have and want to use https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...ll-caliper-id-question.1283285/#post-14737792 Calipers are VW . look like two pin pads. Mine are single pin . Are your rotors 10.5" or are they smaller diameter. I'll have to see if Pete and Jake's have rotors still . I had no luck on a internet search a month ago. I want to run the same brakes so a 14" American Torque thrust will clear . I'm trying to finish a simular car that's a old speed way kit I think . Cool old roadster you have there .
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/used-magnum-solid-rotor-kit-sold.1040486/ Someone sold a complete kit for $100 This is the same setup I have. It appears to be all in decent shape so it stays for now. I think if it needs parts eventually it would be best to upgrade to something that uses off the shelf parts that could be bought at the local parts house. I'm going to seriously look into changing the front drag link. Pushing it around the garage it doesn't like full lock. Definitely the tires fight and it seems to have a terrible turning radius. I like the chrome spindles but I think one of mine was modified previously and if the arms need bent it's probably best to get new, make them work and then chromed. Baby steps at this point. If I try fixing everything I'll have it in 1000 pieces. Is there a reason that the draglink is out front? I see a lot of them built that way? Is it just easier?
funny, i bought a 27 roadster project a few months back too and am going through the same things you are. on mine i think the original build started with the master cylinder and they built the car around it with no intention to ever re-visit it.
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