Technical A Kid's First Project: 1957 Fairlane 500 Town Victoria.

im trying to keep this car ford designed parts as much as i can, the 67 ford mustang master will work perfectly, i can just make another line easily. plus, it will fit in with the rest of the car, being cast iron.

hopefully the mustang parts wont immediately fail like the 57 ford seals have, the rebuilt master i understand, but the replacement master had no reason to fail.

 

This looks like a Ford Fairlane or Mustang piece, but an auto parts one is fine. I used a distribution block on the fenderwell, the rear line I bent up and it fit like it was made for it.

 

In other news, @57 Fargo's throttle linkage has arrived, i installed it on the car, and the linkage feels amazing, definitely better than moving it by hand! Sadly, the battery seems to have died, and will need charged. Either that or its the starter...

 

Glad to help!

 

That's what SHE said...

 

Ive determined its the battery, something is wrong with it, maybe it doesnt like the 14.3 volts the generator is making...

 

14.3 volts is the upper range, 13.8 to 14.3 is a normal range. How old is the battery? Make sure it has water in it. The regulators should be adjustable, I did one years back, forget how I did it, sure as hell didn't look it up on Google...

 

battery isnt even a year old, 7/22, no way to even check the water. I have it on a trickle charger to attempt to revive it.

 

Charge the battery. Take it in to where you bought it. Have them test it.
Here’s why…last January my daily needed a battery. Bought one from AutoZone. Around November, dead as a door nail. I had to put it on the charger to start my truck, went back to AZ said I have a bad battery.
They brought their tester out, little bitty thing, small gauge wires, meter on it, not like an old load tester I knew of. Anyways, truck is sitting there with the hood up, guy doesn’t even ask me to start it (probably wouldn’t start) hooks this little high tech gizmo up and says “ yep, battery is toasted, plenty of voltage, I know your alternator is fine”. 5 minutes later he was putting the new battery in for me saying have a good day.

 

Good thing i kept the receipt...

 

I stuck a daewoo antenna on the original antenna as a test, impressive results.

 

after a day on a trickle charger (2 amps) the battery came back to life and the engine runs really well, other than the accelerator pump aerates the fuel into a spray rather than a squirt, aswell as being slightly late, but still enough to cause intake backfires.

on another note, rockauto shipping is doing what rock auto shipping does, the unions, t and such have already arrived, master is a ways out still

 

You need one of those Audiovox FM converters, they mount under the dash. Every parts store had them.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/blovBgcSvtY?feature=share
lets try that again...

 

oh i see why, it uploaded as a short and wont embed

 

waiting for the brake master, i decided to try tinkering with the carb to fix the late accelerator pump issue, the result? its now even further delayed, so i checked the vacuum advance just to be sure, after a quick cleanup, it looks good as new again, and still is fully functional.

didnt fix it... gonna have to find out what on earth is wrong with this carb.

im also getting to work on making parts for the dual master conversion
rock auto is of course, being rock auto and the part hasnt arrived yet.
@57JoeFoMoPar can you make some measurements to see how far from the firewall the brake lines will need to be? i want to get to work on the lines and pre fab them.

 

did some carb work today, ive gone from a lean state, to a constant rich state, gonna see if letting it sit for a bit helps but i feel like a cat chasing its tail
i also made a much nicer ground.

 

I always liked the little Holleys. We had one on a 429 Ford in a stock car and we got protested after a win one night. The inspector looked under the air cleaner... aha... no Holley 4-barrels. We showed him at was a 2-barrel. The rules were instantly changed... no Holleys, period. The next week we slapped an Autolite on it, the car was just as fast.

 

apparently you cant reuse power valve gaskets. thats the issue.

 

its strange how holleys are a pita to set up, but once they are fully set up, they are amazing carbs for power, even as a two barrel, the 383 mercury made 280 hp and 400 ft lbs of torque, in 1958! the Dual Quad version made over 350 hp and is known as the Marauder.
i need one of these someday.

 

cold morning this morning, still fired up with one pump... too bad it wouldn't idle. its either the float is too high or the power valve has a hole in it.

 

My Holley has a hand choke, I wish I had gotten one with an electric choke. Buy a rebuild kit for it, they are easy to work on.

 

issue isnt the choke, choke works perfectly. its something with the idle circuit

 

I posted this in Jeff Norwells glutton for punishment build as i read he used a 1961 ford wiper motor, and i grabbed one off a 1961 ford truck, everything but the linkage was intact, the linkage was sadly stuck and not able to be removed. how would i make a small pivot mechanism? or should i simply sell this motor, and use the money from it to buy a '57 chevy electric wiper motor?
it was 10 bucks, i have no losses no matter what i do.

I also got an overflow tube.

 

a next step after i figure out this constant running rich problem (hopefully soon) is exhaust work. i need to source some hangers and bolts for the passenger side hangers. then im going to get duals and the longest glasspacks i can find installed, with a cherry bomb above the axle.
i really want 42 or 48 inch glasspacks, but i seem to be limited to 36 inch glasspacks. my dad thought about flowmasters originally, but i want it to sound like a hot rod should. not a hollow rumble, but instead a sound like a playing card in a bikes wheel, just like I did when I was a kid, or like as my dad calls them "hillbilly bonnevilles"

 

Porters are supposed to be good, also Brock Mellowtones. I had Bombs on my car, took them off. Way too loud, they were short like 20". I'm now using Dynomax turbos, much better and a great sound. They sort of "broke in" after 6 months and got a little louder. On my car, there is not much room for a long muffler. I mounted them in front of the rear axle.

 

it just hit me. don't condensers work better when its cold, same with resistors? when i got it to idle perfectly other than revving it was like 12 degrees. what if my ballast resistor and condenser have failed and the issue isnt the carb, but the ignition system? hm.

arent all mufflers supposed to be in front of the axle? i want the cherry bomb above the axle as a resonator to attempt to remove as much of the drone as i can.

 

Muffler behind the rear wheel with a y-block on a similar car and sounds pretty good. There really isn’t any drone and these mufflers are Smithy’s.

 

do you have a video of how that sounds? also, should i install the heat shielding under the floors or not worry about it?