Good evening HAMBers I just finished installing a 3" drop axle on my 1950 F1. Once I buttoned everything up and lowered it to the ground, the steering wheel moved about 1/4 turn to the right, with the wheels tracking straight. Prior to installing the drop axle, truck tracked straight down the highway with steering wheel centered. Any suggestions of what to check or how to correct this issue? Thanks! - Louie
Did you bend(drop) the steering arm on the left spindle an equal amount? If not, that is why the steering wheel is off. This needs to be done to maintain correct steering geometry. Otherwise, you need an adjustable drag link as stated.
Caster angle will change the steering wheel location. Two tie-rods cannot move the steering wheel, you need four to do that, two only moves the steering rod between the tie-rods. Adjustable drag-link is the easiest way to recenter the gear box. You can try loosening the u-bolts and moving the axle forwards or backwards to remove all play in the locating pins, it might be enough to pull the wheel back somewhat closer to alignment.
The reason is the required length of the drag-link has now changed (to be centered), given the different spindle location and drag-link angle as compared to before. As others noted, the solution is an adjustable drag-link. Caution: Make sure that whoever fabricates a new drag link is qualified on how to make one and has the correct equipment to do so - as this is about the last place you need a component failure!
Set the toe in sight down the inside of the front tires and turn the steering wheel until you can see the same amount of the rear tire on both sides unhook the drag link and center the steering wheel then heat and bend the pitman are in the left front spindle until the drag link fits.
I like the idea (generally) - and one can figure out how much of a bend will be needed (in the spindle steering arm, not the pitman arm) by just driving the truck and figuring out where the car centers, mark the steering wheel location, then when back in the shop, align it as such, pull the drag link, recenter the steering wheel and you'll know how much the Driver's side steering arm needs to be bent. It will probably not be much - though you can figure out in advance what it requires and make a judgement call from there. Given the design of the F1 steering, this is probably a very doable technique.
I haven’t bent the spindle arm yet. With toe set, steering centered, the drag link is about an inch too long compared to where the spindle arm ball is. I guess as mentioned above, my solutions are to either heat and push/bend the spindle arm forward or to make a shorter drag link…
Boy, that is quite a bit and given the shape/angle of the steering arm my bet is that you don't have the room to do it (and have full travel for left/right turns). You'll need to put the car up on jackstands (under the axle), pull the tire and see what room you have - or not. Given this picture, my bet is that a new drag-link is the real "cure".
I agree, I don’t believe there’s enough in the steering arm to move it forward enough. My question then would be, if I shorten the drag link, I will lose on turning radius?
Don’t bend any arms, just do it right and get an adjustable drag link. If you can’t do it, you will need to find someone who can take some separate ball and socket rod ends and make a threaded center bar. If you bend the arm, you will have less turn in one direction. Making sure the box is centered when the tires are centered is extremely important. The adjustable drag link will do this.
Is there enough room to bend a small "Z" in the drag link to take up the 1 inch that it is too long? Measure, heat in a vice and bend until it's the correct length.
Adjustable arm is the best solution, any adjustments in the future for caster or wear can be easily adjusted out. My uncle made one for my Chevy truck using 3/4" diameter steel rod with left and right hand threads, standard Chevy tie-rod ends screw right on. Adjustment was a piece of cake, did it on the side of the road a few times till it was perfect.
alchemy is Spot On with his information. Anything less or more will have another reaction in some part of your steering movement. Do it right, do it once! DO NOT TRY TO FIX IT WITH A TORCH!
"Yeah! The drag link was too short, so I bent it in 2 spots an' it's STILL too short!" <Foghorn sound>
I have setup steering in the past by centering the box then removing the pitman arm and filing the flats so it can be clocked to the correct position and making a new or ordering or cutting a drag link. JMWay.
Making any bends, or cutting will be a bandaid approach to fixing this. It will center it, but then it wont ever allow future adjustments you may need. And if your bandaid fix doesn't fully correct it, or not over correct it, you'll be doing it over. The adjustable section is the only good fix.
I have not heard of a steel steering arm fail after being heated and bent. He just had the same thing done the axle. What does scare me is Heim joints used in steering for street cars some states do not allow it. If you are going to use them please use a safety washer.
Who said anything about Heim joints? We were talking about making an adjustable draglink using original style tie rod ends, kinda like this... Pic taken from here. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...t-pitman-arm-drag-link.1287013/#post-14792186
Is there a specific vehicle application that used drag link ends with the clamps on it? I'm seeing them pop up in these posts and links just can't seem to narrow my search down Thanks again, this is helpful! Edit - Model A tie rod ends... found it!
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