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Projects New Project: 1953 Oldsmobile

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by EnragedHawk, Jul 13, 2016.

  1. KandN Kustoms
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 485

    KandN Kustoms
    Member

    My favorite pic so far!
     
    EnragedHawk likes this.
  2. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    I’ve been debating swapping in a different pumpkin from a later Olds/Pontiac. If you’ve got another yoke around, I’d definitely be interested!

    Here’s what I just send to the seller on eBay so he can compare measurements for me.

    Please ignore the shitty welds. I had to do a quick and dirty job so I could drive the car up my driveway and into the garage.
    2C3E5313-FE07-4392-9208-B20915AA08BB.jpeg 410E4645-7BA7-4443-A9AC-09AA6C3C324A.jpeg 3F55AEDE-65F1-4F53-B529-F84FA76AADA8.jpeg 3593F557-0225-47B0-9C18-1FF11568976B.jpeg 404BE949-B9BB-4F2B-A8E1-6A5E4B1A5576.jpeg
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  3. Captain Chaos
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 652

    Captain Chaos
    Member
    from Missery

    I can yank it out of my 50 tomorrow, its in shop on stands already, Im doing a built 8.5 10 bolt so I dont need the yoke
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  4. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    man that would great! Just give me a shout if it looks like a match!
     
  5. Captain Chaos
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 652

    Captain Chaos
    Member
    from Missery

    Looks like splines are the same but the surface the seal goes on on mine is 1.44 were you show 1.74.
     
  6. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Dang! So close. Thanks for checking!

    I heard back from the ebay seller. His measurements matched mine almost exactly, so I ordered it and a new u joint. I need to replace the pinion seal while I'm at it, but apparently it's different between 52 and 53. I'll have to get back under the car tonight and figure it out. Judging by the pictures, I think I need the 52.
     
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  7. Captain Chaos
    Joined: Oct 16, 2009
    Posts: 652

    Captain Chaos
    Member
    from Missery

    From what I think I figured out , the yokes 49-52 , 53-56 , the seal is 53-64.
     
    EnragedHawk likes this.
  8. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,205

    53choptop
    Member

    I have the rear end for my 53 out of the car if you still end up needing exact parts. I think I may also have spare u-joints I bought just because I was having a hard time finding them (I think). You actually saved me a bunch of headaches with your radiator post, I replaced my radiator using your measurements, so you can have the yoke off the rear end if you need it. I know you said no comments about airbags, but if you need any tips, my Olds is bagged, 4 linked with a 78 camaro rear end, original front end with new knee action upper A-arms. I am using 15x5 wheels off a mid 50's chevy bel-aire in the rear so they tuck in, you are pretty much are forced to do this because even a 15x6 will be tight.. I am in Austin, can send you pics of the install/build if you want just as a reference. Rey


    20210508_215220.jpg
     
  9. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 6,485

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    This is what the HAMB should be about. That 53 is stunning, love it.
     
  10. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX


    Man that thing is perfect! I mostly meant I don't need people to talk me out of bags. I have wanted to drive a bagged car since high school, and I'm excited about finally doing it. I would love to see your 4-link set up! Also figured out last night that I have a 52 rear end. Pulled the pinion seal and checked the codes on it. I think the parts I have coming will match just fine. I still may swap the diff eventually, but mine will do for now.
     
  11. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,205

    53choptop
    Member

    Here some pics I pulled from my phone. Im not too good at keep record of things, the only reason I take pics is to refer back to them later, but these will give you an idea.

    I got the links from Welders Series, its a solid beefy kit that fit the bill. I had already installed the step notch several years back, to go this low a step notch is necessary. Also redid the tank, cut out the trunk floor and added a mid 60's mustang tank. It was a lot of test fitting, in and out, not much space under there, but once it's set up right, it works real nice. The air system is a Viair onboard system that the off-road guys use and the valves are 4-way Little Larry manual valves. I think I have the 8 inch conitech bags in the back. It rides super nice. Let me know if you have any questions.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Looks great! Thanks for the pictures! I'm currently planning to use ThorBros triangulated 4 link. I actually have a 4-link in my attic already, but it's skinnier bars than I want to run. I want to be able to haul a camper eventually.
    thorbros 4link.JPG

    Still waiting on all my parts to come in for the diff. I'm 99% certain I ordered all the right stuff. I know I should just swap the rear while I'm doing the 4 link, but it won't be hard to swap later. I'm about to do everything out of order anyway.

    I first thought engine, trans, bags. But I'm too excited about bags. My engine may leak, but it runs great. Trans gets bad gas mileage, but it's literally the only thing that hasn't failed me yet. I'll do bags, enjoy them for a month while dialing everything in, then do engine and trans. BUT! LSRU first, then I'll get started.

    Sooo speaking of LSRU... I discovered a broken leaf spring, which explains the dog tracking someone told me about a couple weeks ago. I'll add a picture later so you can see, but I'm debating sketchy solutions to get me by another month.

    Do I:
    A) ignore it, drive to Austin and back, then do the 4 link?
    B) clamp the spring back down?
    C) clamp and weld the spring back down?
    (please note, I know these are all terrible solutions, I'm just looking for the least terrible)

    It the top leaf on the passenger side. It broke just in front of the lowering block and it's allowed the passenger side rear to slide back a half inch. Again, I'll add a picture later.
     
  13. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,205

    53choptop
    Member

    Thorbros has some good stuff. Yeah if you will be eventually pulling a trailer, I would beef up the whole back end.

    That's a tough one, but then again, I can't be the judge since up until I did the 4 link, my rear springs were sketchy too, I flattened them out and removed every other leaf, plus the longest ones lost their arches completely.

    If you ignore it and it shifts it may do more damage, but I doubt it shifting much more unless the pack is super loose, you may be able to get away with just clamping it down somehow, it's a tough call.

    Once you post a pic I can see what it looks like, but did you remove any leaf springs to lower it? Or flatten them out?

    I have most of the shorter spring pack from the original rear end, except the longest spring which I just cut off. If they help, you can have them at least to get you through (but I will take a pic of it later tonight to make sure they are all still there). From what I am reading, your broken spring would be the shortest spring in the pack, the top one closest to the axle? If that is the case, I may have what you need.
     
  14. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Balls balls balls balls

    why did I look? Ignorance would have been bliss. Or a wreck, I dunno. Whatever.
    Here’s the broken spring:
    7D59065D-934B-4182-953E-35FC0EBF1E94.jpeg 37305D94-E847-4C57-A86B-6A1D25EE4BCD.jpeg F56CBB16-9AC2-4CEA-9992-B7C7A75DD464.jpeg

    The rear hanger bumping the frame is the only thing holding the passenger side of the rear end in place.
    A clamp wouldn’t do jack. My only option is to weld it without wasting money on new springs. I’ll have to think on it. I know the correct answer is to not drive to LSRU.
     
    lucky likes this.
  15. lucky
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 851

    lucky
    Member

    Correct. Do NOT drive.
     
  16. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    I just told my wife we probably won’t make the round up. Her response is my favorite, “can you get it bagged in a month?” Man I freaking wish. Haha
     
    Tman likes this.
  17. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    I don’t assume any Olds guys within a couple hundred miles of Waco want to loan me leaf springs for a month? I’ll pay rent as long as it’s a lot less than new springs. Haha
     
  18. vtwhead
    Joined: Oct 20, 2008
    Posts: 5,297

    vtwhead
    Member

    You must have a spring shop near you. Take it out and have them make you the main leaf. Not very expensive, at least not up here in our region.
     
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  19. wvenfield
    Joined: Nov 23, 2006
    Posts: 5,657

    wvenfield
    Member

    Yep, I'd be off to a spring shop. Quick and easy for them and really not all that expensive. (granted prices have gone up since I had my springs worked on).
     
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  20. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 11,188

    BJR
    Member

    The bummer is going to be getting the front sping hanger bolt out. The front ones that go into the frame have always been a bitch for me to get out.
     
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  21. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    It's just difficult for me to justify any extra money on springs I won't have for more than a month.

    On the bright side, a friend told me he has a set of leaf springs for a 55 Chevy I could have if they'll fit. No idea what to expect, but I'll definitely try them.
     
    wvenfield likes this.
  22. sodakmini
    Joined: Jun 28, 2011
    Posts: 518

    sodakmini
    Member

    I may be able to help you with your yoke, can you give me a u joint #? Or a measurement diagonally from inside corner to inside corner of u joint flat.
     
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  23. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    I appreciate it man! I ended up buying the one off of ebay. What sucks is, I had someone reach out to me with a freebie right after I bought it. Seller doesn't accept returns either. Bad luck all the way around for me this week.
     
  24. sodakmini
    Joined: Jun 28, 2011
    Posts: 518

    sodakmini
    Member

    Bummer, I do drivelines for a living. Enjoy finding these hard to find parts. If you continue to have issues let me know and we can figure out a way to get you an updated driveline that will work a bit better for you. Just did it myself for my wifes 54 olds.
     
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  25. 53choptop
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,205

    53choptop
    Member

    Yeah, that's pretty bad. You may have to sit this one out, at least the car will. You can still go, but I have been there before when I din't make the deadline and showed up without a car, the show almost felt empty. Like I said, I just torched mine out when linked the rear, if not you could have them.

    On those 55 chevy springs, here are the measurements for both the 55 Chevy and 53 Olds:
    General Spring|1955-1957 Chevrolet Passenger Car Leaf Springs (generalspringkc.com)
    Oldsmobile Full Size 1951-60 Leaf Springs - Stengel Bros Inc.
     
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  26. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Ok, this is no time to play “hide-the-weld”. Full disclosure on my repair process with before and after grinding.
    3EBFCB92-7949-454F-BE74-F1F80ABAB78E.jpeg
    D0D3E7E2-3778-4E63-9F77-64008A970A19.jpeg 144C896C-F457-4A3F-9105-24B16D34C7AE.jpeg F0A69E82-C5BE-4DA2-9625-A027F4DB45F9.jpeg E4F9CFCC-A67A-47A5-8AB1-EFC9C46780EB.jpeg 61C380B9-9953-46A9-8E40-DEF1F7DD0FE2.jpeg A7E76A4E-6DC4-4B8E-AD0F-A2E3211660D8.jpeg C5268EBA-729D-467D-AB77-47314AF8E583.jpeg


    I have checked with a few people whose opinions I trust, and they say I’m good to go. Doing my best not to “hear what I want to hear.”
     
  27. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Back for more help! My driver side axle seal is leaking pretty bad. I just replaced it too. Looking online, I’m thinking I have the wrong one installed. I now know for sure I have a 52 rear end. I have a national 470059 in it right now (leaking) but I think I need this one from Fusick. Can anyone confirm this?
    94EAD3A1-7F91-4B01-A0AA-9314745DB0AE.png 517D5A79-2239-47EA-B7A9-D0FFEE089733.png
     
  28. bobss396
    Joined: Aug 27, 2008
    Posts: 18,687

    bobss396
    Member

    Can you compare how the old one was riding on the axle shaft? Or match it to the other side. I had put new ones in my Ford and banged one up, it wasn't in square. It leaked and I sprung for a HF seal driver.
     
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  29. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    I’m probably placing a cruse on my head right now, but I think I’m round up ready. The last couple weeks have been ridiculous. So much crap to fix and so many wrong parts purchased.

    I think I finally know what my rear end is. I have a 55 axle housing with a 52 pumpkin. The gaskets I ordered were pretty much all wrong. I finally ordered some NOS stuff on eBay.

    The yoke is swapped and fits great. The spring is welded for now. My test drive suggests it was broken for a long time, because the car rides much smoother now.

    Had to replace a wheel cylinder that was leaking. Finally got the correct axle seal, so that’s sorted. Also discovered my parking brake cable was hanging up. It’s disconnected for now, but I’ll pull the cable out and clean/oil it later.

    Fixed a few oil leaks as well. And did an oil change. Starting to think my engine is either out of a Toranado or a motor home. I couldn’t find the gasket for the oil filter adapter and had to make my own.
    B47F9346-54AF-448E-A426-058A5251D64F.jpeg

    I’m pretty sure there’s other stuff I’m forgetting. Feels like it’s been one thing after the next. Looking forward to LSRU. If Baloo gets there and back with no issues, it’ll be time for new suspension. If anything serious breaks, that will be what my budget goes to.

    One more picture for this post. My dogs are excited to have the car back. It’s what we use to go to the park. Couldn’t help but get a… ahem… Baloobonnet picture while we were there.
    10B138F8-3794-4C0F-8331-1F51C8D431D1.jpeg
     
  30. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,256

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    I beseech thee O HAMB gods. Save me from myself. Uh, again.

    I’m trying my hand again at compounding the car before LSRU. So far, made it worse. A lot worse.

    I borrowed this from a friend:
    E7F6142A-E87A-4678-B158-65727960AA0E.jpeg

    I’m using this rubbing compound:
    F8B04465-6327-4EEE-B426-8D77489B2D6A.jpeg

    I’m going slow and overlapping, and the paint color looks way better, but I’m leaving serious streaks behind. F781E26B-5217-4562-B8A0-350D8CC26DD5.jpeg 65BFF824-43F3-4B11-9B59-4CAB28FF8CC3.jpeg

    Looking for advice on what I’m doing wrong.
     
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