Excuse me guys .... Life is difficult .... Is more difficult when you are stupid. I'm stupid & poor ... I want to convert my truck to 12 volt & bought this alternator. ACDelco Silver 334-2110 The way I understand it from reading/researching this forum ... We have the main power wire on the left. The middle plug is the exciter wire & a idiot light for the dash. Far right seems to be a external ground .... My search terms when I bought it was a 70's chebby truck..... I'm just asking here because I suggested the same alternator to another .... Now I have some clown smarter then me, telling me I need a external regulator for this alternator. I'm hoping someone here can help me settle this .... is it internally regulated or externally?
10DN. This is an alternator that is to be used with an external regulator. If you want one that has an internal regulator, and that wires the way that you suggest, you need a 10SI. That was introduced in 1969 on the Corvette in 1969, and was in everything GM by 1973.
The 10SI is shown on the left, and the 10DN on the right: The 10DN has terminals that point towards the back. The 10SI has terminals that point towards the side. To fast-track this at the auto parts store, just tell them you need an alternator for a 1976 Camaro.
Thanks bud, you saved me from making a fool out of myself on the internet .... again. Clearly I have a 10DN .... I wanted a 10SI .... Not a huge deal for me, I do have a extra 12 volt regulator. I will not pass this on as a internally regulated alternator. I will suggest to the other person to buy a 10SI You answered my question, and it will help another .... I will be eating crow once again...
Delco 10 DN Alternator Over the years I've worked on many 10dn's . They are not high amp but they are very good alternators , 37 to 60 amp. RICH
I really appreciate @Richard L & everyone's help. Delco 10 DN Alternator Over the years I've worked on many 10dn's . They are not high amp but they are very good alternators , 37 to 60 amp. RICH It is going in my Dodge, flathead 6, basic lights, radio, heater ... vacuum wipers. Claims to be 65 amps I was thinking it would be fine. I think I know what I need to do, just purchase correct 10si alternator. I bought it online from Amazon, so I'm not going to send it back just put it on the shelf. Since I am wiring the truck from scratch anyways & just collecting needed parts .... I could use it. Question I'm wondering about is my Ford voltage regulator. Was installed in a 1954 shoebox (before it became a OT car ) Y block with generator. 2161 12V N/P ..... I'm guessing it will not work for 2 reasons. 1, it is for a generator & not a alternator. 2, It is 3 wire, not 4 like a GM voltage regulator. I'm wondering about the 4th wire, goes to keyed switch & not connected to the alternator? Am I getting to far in the weeds wanting to use a GM alternator with a Ford Voltage regulator in a Dodge truck?
I can’t see why it could not be made to work if the alt outputs are the same as the needed inputs to the regulator. You would need to sit down with both schematics and figure it out though.
Just a note about some of the new replacement regulators for the 10 DN alternators. If you are using them on original type wiring with an idiot light, some of those new regulators will not start charging, nor will the idiot light work, even if you trick the system into charging. The new regulators will work if you are just using a volt meter or ammeter without any trouble. I recently was working on an old Caddy that the owner had replaced both alternator and regulator and could not get the charging system working. The owner had taken both new units to a reputable auto electric shop, and on the bench everything was fine (idiot light not used in bench testing), no way to make that regulator work with an idiot light in the circuit. His old original regulator worked fine with the original circuitry.
I apologize to all I just realized I did not select watch this thread ... not getting notifications. I feel like this voltage regulator should be fine. I need Arm, field, BAT. I have read in the past where some (GM) cars would not shut off with the key. I'm thinking that is how GM wires their cars different. My Dodge the key switch shuts the power off to the coil, killing the engine. I just see no reason to have the 4th wire running from VR to the switch. I also do not know if what I think is true .... GM alternator is labeled R & F. I can not trust F stands for FLD on a GM alternator. .... I dunno. I understand I could buy a VR ... I think Summit offers them for $15.99 Then I saw another distributor offering what appears to be the same part number for over $100. I'm just hesitant on Chinese junk .... The one I currently have is made in the USA. One more reason, I do have a rebuilt 8BA that needs work from sitting ... If I were to switch it to a 12 volt generator .... Just saying, if I rewire my truck now with a Ford regulator, A future engine swap would drop right in. I have reasons .... all built on hope & dreams .... working through paint. I really do want the Ford voltage regulator working on a GM alternator. I need to do some testing on the alternator to see what does what.
The cars that won’t shut off (all makes did it) suffer from backfeed problems when the regulators went bad.
Quick way to tell the internal versus external GM alternators, of that era, the double blades of connector are in line on the internal one, and parallel on the external.
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