Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

Chassis is finally off the jack stands (suspension fully assembled) and I've started plumbing. Had to hang the exhaust pipe to work on the layout so I know where the flex line will live.

 

Hi Scott,
Your project is looking great!
I ordered the same dash panel for my car from Phoenix Machine. Should be here soon.
DC

 

Phoenix Machine:
https://www.phoenixmachinellc.com/index.cfm

 

Mine is made by Bill Grau (5 gauge Auburn style dash insert)

 

Scott, can you give me the measurement between the rear spring mounts. Mine appear to be wider and were installed by the previous owner.

 

Mounts on rear-end ? Where the shackles attach?

 

yes, mine IIRC are 46 1/2 center to center. What spring did you use?

 

The spring perches on my rear end are 43 3/5" center to center. I am relatively sure the spring is a Posies unit. This tag was on the spring...

 

Thanks Scott. yes that is a Posies piece.. Mine is a used 40 spring and my hangars are wider. It is on the list to be changed as it sets the body too high.

 

Got myself out in the 40 degree garage today and got the gas tank secured

 

Hi Scott,
Tell you an interesting story regarding my '32 gas tank. I had just filled my gas tank and went in to get a cup of coffee. I come out and a guy is looking at my car and tells me I have a gas leak. WTF? I look under the car and the gas is coming out the vent hose I ran to the bottom front of the gas tank from the fuel pick-up assembly, like that shown in your picture, the angled pipe. I crack the gas cap to relieve the pressure and it stops. I drive home and it's doing the same thing. When I fill my tank I fill to the bottom of the gas cap pipe, not overly full. I ended up draining and removing the tank. The vent pipe has a "roll-over" shut-off valve that protrudes into the tank about 2". When I filled my tank the pressure eventually started a siphon out and down the vent hose. I ended up removing the fuel pick-up assembly and cutting the roll-over extension off the vent pipe. Problem solved. Looking back I probably could have run the vent hose up above the tank somewhere so not to start a siphon. If I roll my car the roll-over valve will be the least of my worries. Just one more thing to keep an eye on!
Regards,
Don

 

Got the $14 (Amazon) exhaust wrap on yesterday. Was easy to work with, hope it performs.

 

Good from afar, far from good (at least in my perfectionist mind). 3/8" Ni-Cop isn't exactly easy to bend.


Somebody tell me that I don't need to redo the entire thing because this bend looks crappy. It's not kinked, it's just dented a little because of the compound bend using my bender. Don't think the volume of the tube is affected.

 

Curious what brand that stuff is. I have found they are not all crated equal. I used plenty of the stuff before and it’s always been great. Most recently I used 3/16” and 3/8” on a project at work and they both were normal. But needed to bend 5/16” for the last fuel line up to the manifold and it might as well have been stainless. First time I’ve had any NiCopp that was that hard. I don’t remember what brand any of those were though.

 

My attitude is, no one will ever see it once the body is installed.

Give up the idea of perfection, you are the only one who cares. Let's get this rod drivable.

 

What are you bending it with?

 

Scott, I have had similar issues with Nicop. I doubt that will interfere with the flow and it would be a pain to do it again to see the same result. I borrow my friend's hydraulic bender to do the bubble flare in the end of 3/8 nicop for holding the hose. One time it works fine, the next the tube wrinkles..go figure, aggravating!

 

Summit Racing brand - it is almost as hard as steel to bend.

 

That's why I do a double flare on the ends where rubber will connect - it's tough to get the rubber on there, but it really seals well.

 

OK...front half came out WAY better. As I have plenty of tubing left, I think I'll re-do the ugly rear half

 

I don't get it, you put exhaust wrap on that will make the exhaust rust out, not to mention that it is ugly, and you're going to redo a brake line that has bends that aren't perfect which no one would see when the roadster is done.

 

It won't rust, the pipes are is Cerakoted. Thanks for your opinion, but everyone who's seen it likes the wrap.
I'm re-doing the brake like because I'm a little concerned with it cracking on that crease (right above the exhaust pipe). Will help me sleep at night.

 

Much better...

 

Yes!

 

Well done! Now you can sleep better tonight

 

So, what did you do different? Same tubing?

 

Bent up a new one with smoothe bends

 

Started on the brake lines tonight.
A word of advice to anyone who uses the Pete and Jake's brass elbow and T fittings that attach to your through the frame fittings - don't tighten them too much because the fitting will deform from the wrench - the walls are very thin. I screwed my elbow up and had to order a new one - I think when I put the new ones in, I will put a stainless tube nut in the hole so it can't be deformed.

 

Kris Kross applesauce...
I need something to hold the Wilwood valves to the frame.

 

Can you fix use a double brake line clamp, set off the frame, between the master cylinder outlets?