Projects 41 Ford pickup finally got it home and pictures pictures

I think it's about 1/4 in. between alternator and carb. IIRC there is more clearance on the 97 than the 94. The alternator moves up and down vertically and never gets closer to the carb. Thanks for watching.

 

I've been milling the heads as described previously. The volume of the combustion chambers is pretty even at 55 cc and the CR will be right at 8.7:1. The clearance above the piston to the head is going to be about .075" . The pistons are down in the bore slightly and were made that way. They are un-used but very old. In hind sight, I should have had the block bored to .100+ (from.080) and bought new pistons the would allow modern technology rings.
Done
In the process.
last check of chamber volume.

 

I finally have one head on and torqued to 40 ft-lbs.
I'm waiting on the 3 long (4 1/4 long) studs for the offset generator bracket to install the other head.

 

Looks great Joel! Brings back memories of my engine assembly not too long ago. I would have to say after watching you that I am more of an engine assembler than an engine builder such as you. I just trusted Edelbrock to cast and machine those heads pretty accurately, you went the extra mile ( as usual) to check their work.

 

Most of what I did to the heads was generated by the poor selection of parts I started with in the block. I was trying to use what I had. I wouldn't use a relieved block again..... unless it was all that I had or could find.

 

I thought the relieved block was supposed to be a better choice because it was supposed to improve flow in some way. I figured it must lower compression by a few points though.....

 

All the books I've read say there is no benefit for a street engine. Also the idea of a larger combustion area is more room for flow and the big improvements come from reworking the head. Consistently, this only seems to be necessary or beneficial above 5000 rpm. I'm not going there...... on purpose.

 

I agree . I don't think my FH has seen 4000 RPM so far It seems quite happy under 3000 most of the time. It loves to cruise around 2000. I'm happy with that so far. I just don't want to break it and have to build that Hemi to replace it.

 

Good thread

 

Just so good to see more and more Flatheads being retained.
Great stuff.

 

Hemi s are just as expensive as FHs I hear.

Thanks for checking in.

Thanks for following; it's been a learning experience for me.

 

The heads are torqued down. I'm waiting on new pan gaskets to button it back up.
I made a couple of small adjustments to my alternator mount and drilled and tapped for a 5/16 flathead machine screw into the support that uses one of the intake bolts. It's supposed to take away some of the leverage that the alternator weight will exert on the head through the offset gen. bracket.

 

What is the braided line on the intake for?

 

What braided line? The intake is drilled and tapped for vacuum under each carb. With a stock dist., it has a vacuum brake that controls rate of timing advance. It also would supply the original vacuum wipers.

 

Thanks, Joel... I'm now having second thoughts about my relieved 59A block.

2 steps forward, 1 back...

 

That is probably the line I was referring to. In post 457, it looks like maybe -6 Aeroquip line and fittings. I've got the original flathead in out '50 Ford and kinda think a carb and intake setup like yours would be bitchin'. I'm not been around any flatheads before and I'm trying to learn about them. I've seen a similar "looking" deal on a SBC, but that is for cooling, and I knew that wasn't the case here.

 

Kelly, I forgot about the other manifold.I apologize if I was short in my answer. I have 2 of those Edelbrock Supper Duals. I bought the one you referred to recently, as it had the generator mount as part of the manifold casting. That line was for a PCV system. There is an offset generator bracket that might work off that manifold, but I already had the one I'm using. BTW I noticed that the Super Dual manifold was not on the Edelbrock website the last time I looked. I have seen some on E**y . Of course, you have to run both carbs synchronized together. I have a smaller displacement (252 in3) so I will probably use two 97 s.

 

I moved the engine from the stand to the frame I've been using to repair the cab. I want to make up the oil lines for the remote filter so I can fill the system with oil, check out exhaust routing, etc. Here
is a pic.

 

The oil filter is located and the hoses are made and installed.
I'm going to cars and coffee this morning and it's raining already. Light rain. It's that time of year.

 

I'm still checking fit of the things that will go together later. I had to raise the rear of the engine about 1 1/4 inches to get the exhaust to fit . I still have clearance to the firewall and trans cover. I took the starter apart to check check bushings and brushes, etc. I added lube as necessary. I think it is a rebuilt unit as the bendix looks new. It spins great on 6v.
It looks like no problem with the stock steering box but I'll put one in today to be sure.

 

We got some decent weather this weekend so I took advantage. I moved the engine and the transmission onto it's permanent home. Big step in the project.
My home made lift adapters to the HF balance beam. Works fine.
It sure improved the appearance of the chassis.
This will be my "run stand"also.

 

Great progress! Thanks for the encouraging pictures. I really need to get back on mine.

 

Nice tire and wheel stagger on the tractor too!

 

Simplicity makes them that way. Also has rear suspension and power steering

GO for it. This is a BIG boost for me. Thanks for following to you both.

I'm going to fire it soon with my 6v system. I need to jerry rig some wiring ,exhaust, gages. Driving season is here, mostly, and I have some service to do on the coupe.

 

Get 'er done! The world needs more 40/41 Ford PU's!

 

Looking great! What front sway bar are you using? Where do the end links attach?

 

I'm using the C.E bar that goes with the stock axle. I'm still working on the link. I have the same bar on my coupe using all their supplied parts. The "dog bone" on the bottom of the perch pin moves around a little. There is a vender on this site that uses spherical rod ends and a modified perch pin with a different sway bar: I've been working on something kind of similar. I'm sorry for the slow response.

 

Here is a small update. I made a coil mount and I am going to rework the exhaust to fit the headers. I'm supposed to get flanges today. Everything I do has to work for my "super dual" manifold also.
The starter solenoid on the coupe crapped out last night at the DQ. I had to bump start the ca to get home. Always something.

 

Thats a fine looking flattie! I used V band clamps on my reds headers, they are small and easy to use.

 

Now, that's a really slick idea! I may have to copy that.