Projects 170ci inline six bent pushrod

Hello hambers.
I've been working on the econoline,,it was running great.
Today I decided to work on the passenger seat,started it and it was running rough then it started to run but with a metal clancking noise..bent pushrod..fffffuuuuuuck!
What's the reason and how do I go about fixing it??
Thanks in advance

 

Timing set took a hike.

 

If the gas is old you may have bent a pushrod because of a stuck valve. I've seen a few intake valves get stuck because of this (old gas creating a liquid - sticky- mess that causes the valve to stick in the guide). If you're lucky the pushrod bends and the valve doesn't get stuck in the open position, getting smacked by the piston and bending the valve. Let us know what you find.

 

The distributor looks pretty old.
Everything else looks new.

 

Gas was new.
Only used new gas..I guess I have to take the head off

 

Timing set as in timing chain and sprockets.

 

I guess the only right way to check is pull the motor and put on a stand.
This is what I found when I first pulled it out to clean and paint it.

 

Not sure how to tell you this, but here goes.

That is a 200.

The 144/170, and even the first year of the 200 had four main bearings.

The 200 and the 250 had seven (and this is not a 250).

 

I cannot read the part number on the cylinder head at the photos, but it appears to be a mid-1970's head, from the log size, but it is hard to tell exactly. The flat top on the intake log indicates later than 1960's, all the way to the 1980's!

It has adjustable rockers, which means that someone has been in there. As far as I know, all 200's have hydraulic lifters, and non-adjustable rockers.

You will need to know this when sourcing a replacement pushrod. A "regular" 200 has pushrods with a ball-end a the top, which interface with non-adjustable rockers.

You have adjustable valvetrain, which has pushrods with cups, which interface with the adjusters.

 

Check and report back two things:

The part number on the head. It is on the intake log, on the rearward end, as raised letters and numbers.

-And-

The part number of the block. It is on the passenger-side of the block above the pan rail, below the line of core plugs.

The reason why I suggest this is that early blocks were equipped with dished pistons, to be used with small-chamber heads.

Later blocks had flat-top pistons, to be used with large-chamber heads.

While everything bolts together, if you put unmodified later heads on and early block, you get large chambers, and dished pistons, and a very low compression ratio.

Toss in a modern composite head gasket, instead of the original steel shim head gasket, and it goes even lower.

When I say low, I mean like 6.5:1.

 

Ya see some weird shit when opening up old engines. I wonder if I put that one together

 

I run a 1966 200 block, with a 1980+ 200/250 head (largest log, runners, and valves of an OEM part) in my Flacon.

To get the compression where I wanted, to took am 0.080" cut to correct the chamber size, and to compensate for the modern gasket thickness.

These heads, if not previously cut, can take a 0.090" cut. If already cut, then you're already closer to where it would need to be to correct the compression ratio.

 

Gotta love Thriftmaster sixes; the LEGO of Ford engines. (well; as long as you don't try to put the 250 crank in a 200)

 

Or a 235 crank in a 200, 'cause the Thriftmaster 6 was a Chevy.

The Ford small-6 was the ThriftPower 6.

 

...unless it was the 200 in my college girlfriend's '67 Mustang; then, according to the air cleaner, it was a "Sport Sprint".

 

That's OT here.

 

OOOPS. Should have remembered that name; I had a hood emblem off my great-granddads AD for years
Gotta love the names everybody put on their engine families before they lost their imaginations

 

Like Turbo Fuel Stratified Injection?

 

I put the 170 in the title so it wouldn't get shitcanned

 

Hi.how do I check if exh valve is stuck?

 

The 200 came out in 1964.

 

Push the rocker arm to the side and zip tie it there.

Gently rap the top of the valve with a hammer.

If it moves, trying levering it down a little with a pry bar against the rocker shaft.

 

Thank you!that worked.the valve stuck(it was in the open position) it wouldn't move til I got it free with the hammer..
I already order 4 rods from rockauto...
Thanks!!

 

As a note the adjustable rockers were in the 1965 200's at least in the new off the floor Comet I had and was told by the service manager that some did some didn't.

 

Ford did some weird stuff when they had extra parts.

 

They sure did. They’d use the last years parts until they used them up, totally redesign parts in the middle of a year run, lots of crazy stuff. Probably still do, I don’t have any knowledge of what goes on after the Windsor series, I’ve owned several , just didn’t work on them.
That’s a big reason Chevy guys dislike Fords so much, it takes more work to find out what will interchange on Ford stuff. There’s probably 20 different accessory drives across the Ford line, where you can put a tin can on a Chevy and it will work.

 

...as is the vintage of the vehicle your cylinder head came from that you mentioned. Maybe we can share a jail cell.

 

I have counted 23 in the Windsor family, so far.

I won't touch a partial. If it comes in bare or missing parts, it gets a complete aftermarket drive assembly, sold as a unit.

 

Yup, but Ford, for all the nightmares that their "better ideas" about revisions brough, revised that head every few years.

The end-of-line head had the largest log, runners, and valves, and flows very well.

 

There was once a company called Classic Inlines, but the owner passed, and the site disappeared.

Much of the business was taken op by a new company called Vintage Inlines, so the parts went there (mostly).

They managed to preserve the excellent tech section from the previous site here: https://fordsix.com/ci/Tech.html

I scraped the entire Classic Inlines site when it went zombie, so I have the tech section, too, in-case that link above stops working for some reason.